AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Shop Made Tools => Topic started by: Dr. Tim-Boone on January 12, 2013, 11:19:35 PM
-
(https://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c18/DrTimBoone/Tang%20Forming%20Jig/2013-01-12111603_zpsce1564be.jpg)
(https://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c18/DrTimBoone/Tang%20Forming%20Jig/2013-01-12111458_zpse46141da.jpg)
(https://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c18/DrTimBoone/Tang%20Forming%20Jig/2013-01-12111206_zps167d7477.jpg)
Now that is slick!
-
Thanks Dr.Tim for posting the pics. This jig was made for me by my gunsmithing friend William Young Wahkon MN. Really makes it easy to get just the right arc in a tang. It also works on trigger bars usually use a cresent wrench for leverage on a trigger bar. I just use the barrel for leverage to bend the tang. Get a little too much bend just reverse and pull the other way. Be careful the barrel gives a lot of leverage. The jig works great to get the hump out of Hawken tangs.
-
Due to the recent interest in bending tangs, I decided to bring this thread back to the top. Simple jig made for me by William Young Wahkon Mn. Simply two bolts screwed into a block of steel with the heads cut off. I have two one with smaller bolts to get a quicker bend if needed. Simple but works well. Tim
-
I sometimes use a vice mounted homemade jig with somewhat similar working principles. With this setup you only make minor adjustments. the risk of a cast part snapping is great. If I had to bend more than a tiny bit I would employ heat.
(http://i.imgur.com/RLwVqQql.jpg)
dave
-
I agree with you PP when getting the tang in alignment with the barrel I use a different method. It is similar to yours. I also use it to get the ever present hump out of a cast Hawken tang. But when it comes to puttin a simple bend in a tang to get it to the profile of the stock the jig I have shown works well for me and is simple to make. I often apply heat on cast tangs to keep them from cracking. Usually the tangs on swamp barrels are machined by the barrel maker and little aligment is needed. They are also usually ductile enough to put the necessary bend in them w/o heat. I have a friend that is one of the better recognized builders and he put only a slight bend in a fint tang, preferring instead to file down to the wood and have a shallow tang depth. Often only 1/8" or so. I usually leave a little mire but it works for him. Lot of different ways to bend a tang. Tim
-
I use a Crescent wrench with the breech held in a padded vice.
-
8-18-17
Sqridog,
What are the dimensions of the tang forming jig. Such as pin diameter, space between pins, size of steel block (LWH), length of pins above steel block and any other dimensions that would assist in making such a jig. You mentioned another size jig with the same requested dimensions.
Best Regards,
Robert T Adams
-
Robert
The pins are 1/2" and extend above the block 1". The open space between the pins is about 5/16". The steel block is .850 or so high (thick) and about square 1.650 or so. The pins are simple bolts screwed into the block and cut to length. I I use this jig most of the time. As I said it was a gift from William Young along with a host of othe amazing jigs and gadgets that help with building a muzzleloader. The second tang bending jig I made to help get a quicker bend at the juncture of the bolster and the tang on a rifle that needed it. I can't put my hands on it but built basically built the same with just enough space for a tang between two 3/8 " posts. Nothing has to be exact but these have worked for me. Tim
-
8-18-17
Sqrldog,
Thanks for your time to provide the information requested and prompt reply.
Best Regards,
Robert T Adams