AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Tutorials => Gunmaking tools and techniques- metal shaping => Topic started by: James Wilson Everett on June 06, 2013, 02:02:09 PM
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Guys,
Since I finished my little Lehigh gun, it is time to start over. Here is how I start to make the flintlock. First I decide on the general style, in this case an early German lock the size of the large Siler, but with a bit more curve or droop in the rear part of the lockplate. This lock will have a detachable flashpan. Original lockplates were made from wrought iron and rarely brass. So this lock starts with a wrought iron barn hinge. This photo shows the barn hinge and a Siler lockplate that I use as a pattern.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/SANY0015_zps869e4432.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/SANY0015_zps869e4432.jpg.html)
I marked around the Siler plate giving more of a droop to the rear and cut the blank out with a hacksaw and grinder. Here is the blank along with the pattern.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/SANY0016_zpsb95226df.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/SANY0016_zpsb95226df.jpg.html)
The next step is to smooth the outer surface, done with files starting with an 18" coarse tooth file this work is quick. A finer tooth file is used to smooth the surface. Removing a large amount of metal with the fine tooth file is a really long chore. If you want to actually make a gun, get some "big boy" files.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/SANY0017_zps2606effb.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/SANY0017_zps2606effb.jpg.html)
Now the backside of the lockplate is filed flat but leaving the lump of metal to anchor the detachable pan. Filing around the lump is a bit more troublesome than the flat outer surface, but if you use the correct coarse big file it doesn't take long.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/SANY0019_zps70b58d0a.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/SANY0019_zps70b58d0a.jpg.html)
The next step is to mark the locations of the lockplate holes for drilling. Here is where the Siler pattern really shines. You simply center punch through the holes in the Siler pattern to get a good location. In this case I marked the tumbler hole and forward holes, then slightly repositioned the pattern for the droop and punched the rear holes.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/SANY0025_zps2590696e.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/SANY0025_zps2590696e.jpg.html)
Now the lockplate holes are drilled on the center punch locations. I did this with modern twist drills as the visitor crowds were not looking over my shoulder. Also, you can see the cutout for the detachable pan.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/SANY0001_zpsd2fbcb47.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/SANY0001_zpsd2fbcb47.jpg.html)
Here I have to stop the work for several months as I have an overseas assignment, so this will be continued later.
Jim
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A good beginning James, will be interesting to watch your progress.
dave
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You're an amazing filer! Wow, removing all the metal from the backside that way is impressive. Given your skill at the forge I'd have thought you'd rough forge the lockplate but this probably helps keep it all flat.
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James, I, too, have to wonder at the 'correct coarse big file'. To me, it would be a Bridgeport.
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I just went through a similar process making the lock for my Swivel Breech, only not near as involved on the backside. You are truly a master of the file! I'm looking forward to the rest of the tutorial. Thanks
Capt. David
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Do I understand you correctly.....When you say you file the back to re leave the lug for the pan?
Basically stock removal??
C.Laubach
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This looks to be an education for me as I would have thought you would have spoted and drilled all the holes first, then cut out the outside shape of the lock. As I said, it will be an education for me. I assumed that because I thought you already had the lock internals made or on hand from some other lock.
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Guys,
Good questiions. Yes, on this lock the barn hinge was thick enough to allow for the lump to remain at full thickness and all the rest of the stock was filed away. Not really a hard job with the right tools. I find that when filing the old wrought iron the outer rusty crust is rather hard and difficult to file, but once you get to clean metal it is a lot easier to file. The rough files are half round coarse cut files of 16" and 18" long. They really do move the wrought iron quickly. It actually takes more time with the smooth files to get the surface truly flat.
I drill the holes after the flat surfaces are established, square and flat. In most machining operations you should establish a true baseline or datum from which all other operations are measured. In this case the inner and outer surfaces are filed flat and square before drilling the holes. The next step will be to make and install the detachable pan - roughly. The upper surface of the pan is not finished until after the frizzen is installed. I find it easier to file the pan surface to mate with the frizzen bottom than vise-versa. The internals come later, I have not made any yet.
Jim
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Thank you for taking the time to do this tutorial. I look forward to the next chapter. A lot to learn here.
Best regards
ROlf
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Stay safe on your trip Jim, and send us some pictures if you have the chance!
Look forward to you when you get back!
John
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Thanks Jim, I always look forward to your posts.
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I find holding onto an irregular shaped piece of iron rather frustrating. How do you do it, James?
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This is very interesting. I'm looking forward to watching as you progress.
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Guys,
Now to work on the detachable pan. I start with a section of wrought iron buggy wheel rim. The pattern is a modern made casting of a detachable pan, there is really a lot of iron to be removed from this lump.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Pan11_zps69d70182.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Pan11_zps69d70182.jpg.html)
The lump is roughly squared and cut to a very general outline of the part.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Pan12_zpscb5739a8.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Pan12_zpscb5739a8.jpg.html)
You have to be careful to cut the pan groove to fit tightly on the lockplate, a somewhat tedious job to do right.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Pan2_zpsb216be38.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Pan2_zpsb216be38.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Pan3_zpscb2329fe.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Pan3_zpscb2329fe.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Pan8_zps69c24eb7.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Pan8_zps69c24eb7.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Pan7_zpsce0c1345.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Pan7_zpsce0c1345.jpg.html)
Gradually the pan is worked onto the lock plate so that the groove is tight on both the inner and outer surfaces of the lockplate and the toe is tight under the lip of the bolster.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Pan5_zpsbccf0ef3.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Pan5_zpsbccf0ef3.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Pan4_zps57533cec.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Pan4_zps57533cec.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Pan6_zps1ca2d561.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Pan6_zps1ca2d561.jpg.html)
Once the rough pan is tight on the lockplate the final shaping of the pan can start, that is for next time. I know it is ugly now, but it should be better looking later on.
Jim
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This is like the old cliff hanger serials, can't wait for the next one.
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nicely :)
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How did you cut that groove, Mr Smarty-pants? :)
Thanks for posting these neat pictures of your process! This is terrific material.
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Lordy that's a deal of filing.
You must have forearms like Popeye.
After we see all this, it might be an opportune time for Jim Chambers to double his prices !
Seriously now, thanks for taking the time to do this, Jim - I'm looking forward to the rest of it.
/mike millard
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After we see all this, it might be an opportune time for Jim Chambers to double his prices !
/mike millard
SHHHHH, Mike don't give Jim any Ideas.
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I'd like to see everyone stay in business. Locks are a deal compared to what they used to cost when they were all hand made.
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Might be fun to study some old locks in detail and use them for a guide rather than the Siler. As popular as it has been over time, the original stuff is hard to beat. The Siler has stood the test of time as well as anything in this field made so long ago, but it still can be improved upon a bit in terms of design and aesthetics in my view. Plus it's neat to have something quite different. Just my thoughts and something perhaps to consider.
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Guys,
Thanks for the good comments. The groove in the rough detachable pan is cut with a simple 6 inch fine cut mill file. Nothing special here. The pan is inlet to the lockplate using the typical candle blacking fit & file process. When you make a gunlock like this you really appreciate the wonderful skills the oldtimers had. Also, you feel how terrifically inexpensive a $150 flintlock really is. Not only is a Chambers lock amazingly inexpensive, it is a lot better quality that the locks I am able to make.
Jim
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Jim,
Great work! Can't wait to see the next series of photos for this project.
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nicely :)
Raszpla,
When will you have more pictures of your wheel lock project?
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if you mean the job? --> http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=26743.0
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I remember in that old Williamsburg video that they said the most common sound that would be heard in an old gunshop was the sound of filing. :o Yup!
And, it sure does make the locks we get today seem like a steal.
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Filing all day in an unventilated shop must have brought drops of sweat the
size of horse ****. Are there any surviving examples in good condition of the type and cuts of
files that were in common use in metal working in the 1700's?
Bob Roller
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Bob,
The subject of 18th c files was covered in the topic http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=22266.msg212509#msg212509. The only 18th - 19th c file I have ever gotten my hands on is the wood rasp shown in the topic. Still looking, but haven't seen any good examples so far. Probably most were "recycled" into knife blades, frizzens, etc. If you ever find a good old one, please post photos!
Jim
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Guys,
Some of you have noticed the heat discoloration of the rough pan seen in about the middle of the sequence of photos. What I did was this. As the pan groove/lockplate interface was nearly finished I saw that the fit would be better if I bent the long arm of the pan internal bolster downwards a bit to follow the curve of the lockplate upper surface. The bend was not very much, but it did make the fit better. Also, I heated the rough pan red hot, assembled it to the lockplate and moderately tapped on the pan internal bolster to close up any tiny gap between the rough pan and the lockplate. The setup was in the same position as the very last photo when the hot forging was done. You do not hit the hot metal very hard here, just a few light taps with a 16 ounce hammer will do the job. After this the pan/plate joint is nearly watertight.
The shop is shut down now, on my way to Ssumba village, Wakiso District, Uganda. See you all in September.
Jim
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Yep, once again James "Flash" Everett has zoomed off in his sparky spaceship... I'll sure pony up my nickel for the next installment though.
Looking good James.
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What a great tutorial! Looking forward to the next installment. Thanks for sharing Jim.
Capt. David
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Guys,
Now that I am back in the USA, it is time to resume making this gunlock. At the Fair at New Boston I spent some time shaping the rough pan to the rounded shape I want for the lock. Here is how it looks after the rough shaping.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Pan9_zpsd1ce2bd8.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Pan9_zpsd1ce2bd8.jpg.html)
You wait until after the frizzen is installed to do the final shaping and to make sure that the pan/frizzen fit is good and tight.
Now for the job of installing the frizzen. For this lock I am using a ready made frizzen, maybe later I will show the process of forging a frizzen, but I felt lazy. It is difficult to clamp the frizzen and pan together to drill the frizzen screw hole correctly, especially with the rounded surfaces as with this lock design.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen1_zpsc1490e10.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen1_zpsc1490e10.jpg.html)
I use super glue and just glue the frizzen in its proper place on the pan. Yes, I know that this is not historically correct!
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen2_zpsa7c6438f.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen2_zpsa7c6438f.jpg.html)
With the frizzen glued in place on the pan, check to be sure everything is aligned properly, then drill the frizzen cam hole using the existing lockplate hole as a guide. I am sure that you understand that these two holes will be in perfect alignment. This hole is the size for the screw thread tap.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen3_zps71fa66a2.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen3_zps71fa66a2.jpg.html)
Finally, you ream the frizzen cam hole to the body diameter of the frizzen screw and leave the lockplate hole the size to be later tapped for the frizzen screw thread. A gentile rap with a hammer will break the super glue joint apart. This technique will give a really good and tight fit of the frizzen to the pan.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen4_zps9aa4d901.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen4_zps9aa4d901.jpg.html)
Jim
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Jim,
I am anxiously waiting for the next installment. When this thread is done I am going to print it out and put it in a safe place for future reference. I would love to do what you are doing!
Many Thanks and Best Regards,
John Cholin
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Shall we make a tutorial out of this?
By the way, once a thread is posted to the tutorial section, it can no longer be added to. It can be modified, or edited by a mod, or the original poster.
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Yes, please make it a tutorial. But wait until the lock is finished so all the info is collected in one thread so we don't lose anything.
Best regards
Rolf
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Guys,
I was able to do a little more work on the gunlock. I do the really hand made work as a show-n-tell for the visitors at the Fair at New Boston and the Somerset Mountain Craft Days. Here is the next installment. After the frizzen is installed the next step is to file the pan outline to match the frizzen. I leave the pan a bit oversize until after the frizzen is installed so I can get a good alignment. Not a whole lot of difference from the last photos as the metal removed from the pan is about 1/16 inch.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen6_zps709c52b5.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen6_zps709c52b5.jpg.html)
Next I install the partially completed frizzen spring, check out the entire process in the tutorial section. Notice that the cam nose on the frizzen is much too long, it will be trimmed back later.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen5_zpsfe8c4c1a.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen5_zpsfe8c4c1a.jpg.html)
Also, the pan bolster holding screw has been installed. The bolster has been trimmed back just until there is clearance for the tumbler bridal screw to pass. Later it will be final shaped to give clearance for the tumbler bridal and for the mainspring when at full cock. Remember, you can always cut things smaller, but making them bigger is a chore.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen7_zps4d1727d7.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen7_zps4d1727d7.jpg.html)
Jim
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Very cool. That has very graceful lines.
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Good looking lock.With no pan bridle,how many times can the lock be
fired before the pivot screw gives a bit and upsets the fit to the pan.
I made a couple of small ones about 50 years ago but have no strong
memories beyond the fact I did make them.
Bob Roller
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Good comment, Bob, and it is a bit of a concern when making the pan without the bridal/support arm. What I do is make the frizzen pivot screw from steel instead of wrought iron. This pivot screw is made from W1 drill rod and hardened and tempered like a spring. On this one I heated the screw to bright cherry, brine quenched and tempered to just beyond blue, probably about 700F or so. You can see the heat treat color on the frizzen pivot screw and not on the frizzen spring screw. This seems to give good results and I have seen no loosening of the fit over time.
Thanks for the comment.
Jim
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I suspect that 250 yrs ago, on locks without frizzen bridles, the screw hole wore quickly when made of inferior fit/finish/materials. The bridled frizzen could be made with little more effort, and a lot less precision on the fitting and materials.
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Tom,
Having worked on English trade locks of various types, I can tell you that there was not much consideration given to how well they were made or would last. These things were obviously slapped together for a market that either didn't matter or didn't care. I really wouldn't give our 18th century English bretheran too much credit. There was the good stuff they made for the elite among themselves, and the junk they made for the unwashed masses and to send to us. ;)
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Guys,
Now that I am back in the USA, time to make another part. This is the process for the interior bridal, I cut the part from a solid piece of wrought iron buggy wheel rim. The blank looks like a rectangular blade with a square lump on the back. Unlike assembling parts to a ready made lock kit, I find it much easier to drill the tumbler pin pivot hole first, then the screw holes later. Here is a picture of the blank installed on the lockplate. The dark rust is the original outside surface of the buggy wheel rim, the same raw material as used earlier for the pan.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/bridal1_zpsd467a3fc.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/bridal1_zpsd467a3fc.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/bridal2_zps19cd2a3c.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/bridal2_zps19cd2a3c.jpg.html)
The tumbler pin pivot hole is drilled so that the tumbler is nearly in contact with the lump on the bridal. Then the lump thickness is filed down until the lump is only about three hairs thicker than the tumbler to give the proper clearance for tumbler movement.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/bridal4_zpsfb432c34.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/bridal4_zpsfb432c34.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/bridal3_zps5a3e6304.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/bridal3_zps5a3e6304.jpg.html)
When this clearance is right, I superglue the bridal lump to the lockplate interior at the proper position. Then I drill the clearance hole for the bridal attachment screw using the existing lockplate screw hole as the guide. This way when the screw is installed, the tumbler pivot pin and the corresponding hole in the bridal plate are in perfect alignment. Note that this is backwards from the way a Siler kit is assembled.
[(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/bridal5_zps257d257d.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/bridal5_zps257d257d.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/bridal6_zps46812031.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/bridal6_zps46812031.jpg.html)
Last the sear screw hole is drilled in the bridal plate using the existing lockplate screw hole as a guide. The next step is to shape the bridal plate to make it pretty. That's next time.
Jim
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I seemed to have missed how you made the tumbler or did you use a part from another kit? I remember you showing me quite a few years back at the Hanna's town fair how you were making a tumbler using some modified pliers to cut the rounded surfaces. Is that your current method?
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Jerry,
Right, I made the tumbler by forging, filing and finishing with a tumbler mill - but I did not document the process with photos. I will do that and post the photos when I get a round tuit. Here are photos of the tumbler as it is now - semi finished. The sear notches are the very last thing done, even after installing the mainspring. The tumbler is made from W1 steel, just about the same as 1095 steel.
Jim
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/tumbler3_zps3ae347bf.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/tumbler3_zps3ae347bf.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/tumbler2_zps736cb348.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/tumbler2_zps736cb348.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/tumbler1_zps9be4cf73.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/tumbler1_zps9be4cf73.jpg.html)
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James, I really enjoy following your progress, so keep up the good work!
I have two original old hand made locks very similar in style to what you're making, but with less curve on the bottom of the plate. One has unfortunately lost its rifle somewhere along the line, but the other is on a nice early 1780's J. Ferree rifle.
It'll be interesting to see what you make for a hammer on your lock!
John
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What type of stock did you use for the tumbler? I need to make one for a lock I am working on.
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David,
If my memory is correct, I used 5/8 inch square rod to forge the tumbler. I guess you could cut or machine it out of solid bar, but if you make the tumbler using modern machines like a lathe, you would probably have the start with a round bar over an inch in diameter. With forging you forge the rod to a large head much like an off center nail head before starting with a hacksaw & files. I really have to document this with photos when I get a round tuit. The reason this lock is taking so long is that I do the heavy work on a part in my shop and then finish the part at visitor demonstration show-n-tells. In the case of the bridal, I will cut & file the pretty outline shown on the part when the visitor crowd is looking over my shoulder.
Jim
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There was a gunsmith here in Huntington WV that made tumblers from time to time and he used
what he called "barge spikes".They were large,square spikes used to hold the wooden decks on old style river barges. My own tumblers are made from 1144 "Stressproof" that is 1.250 in diameter.This material is easy to work with and all my tumblers start out with this diameter regardless of the final configuration.1144 machines as easy as 12L14 and will oil harden like 0-1,the best of two worlds so to speak.
I doubt if I can make a lock using the methods seen on this forum from time to time and I wouldn't even try.
The gunsmith I mentioned earlier was George W.Killen and in addition to the big spikes he used hood and window regulator springs from cars to make mainsprings from. I showed him the spring material I use and he said it was "too soft".I showed him a lock I made with this "too soft"material and he didn't believe me.I gave him a
piece of it and he tried it and thought a miracle had occurred.
Online metals is my current source for 1144 and so far,so good.
Bob Roller
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Guys,
This is adding the photos and process for making the blank tumbler as was posted on the topic "tumbler mill", just to keep this topic complete. Eventually this will be changed over to a tutorial.
To make the tumbler I forge a blank from W1 tool steel, the same stuff as 1095 steel. The forging looks a lot like a large nail with an off center head. To help in the forging I use an iron bar with a through hole as a big stake setup to forge the head.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/Tools/New%20Tumbler%20Mill/NewMill1_zps1fe3523a.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/Tools/New%20Tumbler%20Mill/NewMill1_zps1fe3523a.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Tumbler11_zps1a7ddae1.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Tumbler11_zps1a7ddae1.jpg.html)
The tumbler mill is made using two opposing cutters that are screw adjustable. The stops on the screw threads are set to give the proper tumbler thickness.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/Tools/New%20Tumbler%20Mill/IMG_0147aa_zpsf2cf194e.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/Tools/New%20Tumbler%20Mill/IMG_0147aa_zpsf2cf194e.jpg.html)
The tumbler blank axle is filed to a slightly tapered round section that will pass about halfway through the mill large axle cutter. The blank is clamped in a vise with the axle pointing up. The lower half of the mill is then used to cut the axle to the proper diameter until the cutter contacts the head. The cutting action is a lot like using a typical die stock.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/Tools/New%20Tumbler%20Mill/NewMill2_zps0609756e.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/Tools/New%20Tumbler%20Mill/NewMill2_zps0609756e.jpg.html)
Now the entire mill is assembled and the tumbler blank axle is clamped in a vise. The screws are used to tighten the cutters against the forging and the whole tool is turned to begin cutting.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/Tools/New%20Tumbler%20Mill/NewMill4_zps3ccbf271.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/Tools/New%20Tumbler%20Mill/NewMill4_zps3ccbf271.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/Tools/New%20Tumbler%20Mill/NewMill5_zpscfd941b1.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/Tools/New%20Tumbler%20Mill/NewMill5_zpscfd941b1.jpg.html)
Much of the use of the tumbler mill is to mark the forging for a guide to use a coarse file to remove most of the metal. Here is a photo of the partially finished forging where you can see the circular cut marks from the mill and the file marks from the rough shaping.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/Tools/New%20Tumbler%20Mill/NewMill6_zps3adab8e1.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/Tools/New%20Tumbler%20Mill/NewMill6_zps3adab8e1.jpg.html)
Now is the time to cut the rough shape of the outside edge of the tumbler. Now the final cut is made and the process of using the tumbler mill is finished when the screws bottom out on the stops.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/Tools/New%20Tumbler%20Mill/NewMill9_zpscc2508bb.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/Tools/New%20Tumbler%20Mill/NewMill9_zpscc2508bb.jpg.html)
Here is the finished tumbler blank.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/Tools/New%20Tumbler%20Mill/NewMill12_zps94245ed9.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/Tools/New%20Tumbler%20Mill/NewMill12_zps94245ed9.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/Tools/New%20Tumbler%20Mill/NewMill10_zpsbc4b5da9.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/Tools/New%20Tumbler%20Mill/NewMill10_zpsbc4b5da9.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/Tools/New%20Tumbler%20Mill/NewMill11_zps02859f2f.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/Tools/New%20Tumbler%20Mill/NewMill11_zps02859f2f.jpg.html)
Jim
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Pretty neat!
;D
Marc
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Guys,
Now, the next step is to make the blank bridal plate look pretty. It really does nothing to change the function, but original bridal plates were quite nice looking. One of my weaknesses is that my stuff looks rather clunky compared to really beautiful originals. Anyway, after just a few minutes with a bitstock, hacksaw, file - here is what it looks like.
[(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/bridal7_zpse13feed9.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/bridal7_zpse13feed9.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/bridal9_zpsda58e16b.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/bridal9_zpsda58e16b.jpg.html)
You can see clearly the wrought iron slag lines, the bridal started as a piece of buggy wheel rim. Here is what it looks like on the lock, so far.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/bridal10_zpsc5c42ec2.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/bridal10_zpsc5c42ec2.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/bridal11_zps63908641.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/bridal11_zps63908641.jpg.html)
The next step is the sear.
Jim
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Looks nice. I am currently winding down my lock work and will try to
finish current work.If I can't then I will send their parts back to the owners.
I am having a problem with my right wrist and the filing and bench work
is not helping.Same goes for triggers.Never liked to make them so I won't
miss them.
Enough is enough.
Bob Roller
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Bob, I'm delighted to have several examples of your fine work.
James, what a pleasure it is to see hand work. May I suggest though, that you buy a set of gunsmith screw drivers from Brownell's ...it'll preserve the clean slots in your screws.
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James that is wonderful work, you are a true master. I learn something everytime you post! How do you get such good close up photos?
Rob, your masterful work will be sorely missed, I hope you get to feeling better. I also hope you will continue to post, your advice is priceless.
Ben
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James that is wonderful work, you are a true master. I learn something everytime you post! How do you get such good close up photos?
...
There's a setting on nearly all photo-making devices that used to be called "macro". These days there are usually two icons (and no words): one is a mountain(s), the other a flower. The flower setting is "macro" and will allow proper focus of things very close to the lens. Try it!
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That seems to be some pretty coarse iron. Most if not all of the original locks I've studied had material with much finer and well distributed silicate inclusions. Maybe high quality material is a bit hard to find.
-
High quality material is easy to find today.I have used 0-1 for sears and "flys" plus 1144 "Stressproof" for tumblers for decades and sent many of the locks I have made with these materials to Germany where they are still in use in competition.I have a "Bailes" I made about 30 years ago setting on the mantle that needs the frizzen reconditioned but the mechanism is still like new and unaltered.Any industrial supply house can furnish 0-1 and the 1144 I recently got to finish some orders with came from OnLine metals.
Bob Roller
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High quality material is easy to find today.I have used 0-1 for sears and "flys" plus 1144 "Stressproof" for tumblers for decades and sent many of the locks I have made with these materials to Germany where they are still in use in competition.I have a "Bailes" I made about 30 years ago setting on the mantle that needs the frizzen reconditioned but the mechanism is still like new and unaltered.Any industrial supply house can furnish 0-1 and the 1144 I recently got to finish some orders with came from OnLine metals.
Bob Roller
Yes Bob. Of course. I was referring to high quality traditional materials. Thought that clear given the context of my post.
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Guys,
Good questions. I really do have a nice set of gunsmith screwdrivers that I bought quite a while ago from Brownells, very well made tools. However, for the crowd show-n-tells I use 18th c style turn screws, with a tapered blade, not modern hollow ground bits. I guess the damage to the screw slots comes from using original type tools. Also, those screw head slots are just cut with an 18th c hacksaw guided by my thumb and are rarely on perfect center.
Also, wrought iron is fairly easy to obtain, and often free. However, well refined wrought iron is quite a bit more difficult to find. I wish that all of my W.I. supply was triple refined, but I use what I have found. I am rather selective when I forge barrels from W.I., then the quality must be higher, but for this lock it is barn hinge and buggy wheel rim iron. Thanks for the comment, I always look for more of the good stuff.
Jim
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Guys,
Now for the sear. This is one of the more simple pieces to make. I start with 1/4 steel square rod, W1 or 1095 steel. Using an existing sear as a pattern I hot forge the end of the rod to a taper and make the right angle bend. I try to get the outside of the bend to be sharp and square, but I never seem to get it right. After the bend is made, determine where the pivot hole will be located. Hot bend the rod at this point to give the proper downward bend of the sear nose. Cut the forging off the rod and smooth the surface that will contact the lockplate. Then drill the pivot hole to fit the size of the lock sear screw shank. Here is the finished forging ready for the file work.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/sear2_zps2c415cbc.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/sear2_zps2c415cbc.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/sear1_zpsda1672f4.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/sear1_zpsda1672f4.jpg.html)
The sear forging is attached to the lockplate with the tumbler in place. The sear bar will be located much higher than the proper location. The first filing is to shape the upper surface of the sear nose to match the curve of the tumbler. In doing this shaping the sear bar will be rotated downwards to the proper location.
I hope this makes sense.
Jim
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Have you tried "upsetting" it ? Heat only the bend red, hold sear on anvil with its nose up. tap it with a small hammer to drive metal down to a sharp 90 angle. Oh, and don't do any shaping before you whack it, leave it bulky. Make sense ? Tom
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Guys,
Rough shaping the sear is simple. File the upper edge of the sear to match the curve of the tumbler. As you do this the sear tail will rotate downwards to the proper position in the lower part of the lockplate. Then finish shaping the rest of the part. Later, when you cut the tumbler notches, the sear tail will rotate downwards a bit more, so for now it is left just a tad too high.
Jim
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/sear3_zpse2ad73ff.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/sear3_zpse2ad73ff.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/sear5_zps1195ddaf.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/sear5_zps1195ddaf.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/sear7_zps2d03d0e2.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/sear7_zps2d03d0e2.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/sear6_zps0b09f472.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/sear6_zps0b09f472.jpg.html)
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James, you don't have your notches filed in yet.
As the sear drops into a notch, its tail will be lower on the plate than it shows in your photo. That you left the sear tail position a bit high is a good thing, it will drop once the half and full notches are in.
I like this puzzle. You work out one piece at a time until the mechanism is complete. At first glance one might be overwhelmed by the complexity. But piece by piece, the lock comestogether in perfect function. But woe to one who get his horse ahead of his cart!
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Acer, I think you mean the one who gets his cart before the horse. The horse belongs in front of the cart to pull it if you want to be historically correct. ;D
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Thanks again for sharing this. Like tom says, make your 90 degree bend first and bring it to high yellow heat, (the wrought iron will stand it) and upset and you will get a good sharp bend, then you can draw the taper.
I just finished putting the lock I am building together. I forged the bridle blank this way from a piece of wrought. I haven't tackled a completely hand forged lock yet but I hope to. This inspired me. The lock I made was from a set of castings I found that only included the plate, frizzen, cock, and top jaw. I made the tumbler, found a mainspring and frizzen spring that would work. Made the stirrup, pin, bridle, fly and screws. I used a Siler sear and sear spring.
Like Acer says it is step by step figuring out each part and where it must go. The tough part was cutting the mortise for the fly in the tumbler. I cut it with engravers and homemade chisels. I don't have a mill.
It is all assembled and it works! I now need to do some final polishing and finishing, harden and temper and fine tune. Hopefully the frizzen is good stuff and will harden ok.
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Guys,
Thanks for the comments. I certainly do need to improve making an outside square corner. Maybe next time I will get it better! I normally do not put a fly into the tumbler, only when making a lock that will be used with a set trigger, a rare thing for me. I can say that to put a Siler type fly into the tumbler it is a very good idea to drill the pivot pinhole first and then later cut out the pie shaped section. If you try to cut the pie shaped section first the chip cut by your chisel will have no place to break free at the end of the cut. If you drill the pivot hole first then as you drive the chisel towards the hole the chip will break or release as the cutting edge intersects the hole. I hope that this description makes sense.
Jim
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Yes James that makes sense. That is what I did. I turned the fly blank out on the lathe, then drilled the pin hole in the tumbler. I scribed the guide lines from the pin hole to the tumbler edge and started the cuts with the square graver laid on the side and then chiseled out the remainder with home made chisels made from files. Even annealed the tool steel stock I used for the tumbler was hard to cut and required a lot of sharpening of chisels.
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David,
Thanks for the input and the information of how you made and installed the fly in the tumbler, good job! I think that few of us really know how difficult this tiny job is especially the first time you do it. Sometimes I think that it is just as easy to make the entire set trigger mechanism than it is to fiddle with making and installing the fly. Not using any machine tools, another "interesting" aspect in making a fly is just holding the tiny thing as you shape it with jewelers files. Anyway, here are photos of a hand made wrought iron gunlock with a fly. I made the lock to go with an early Brandenberg style German rifle with set triggers. I will not be using a fly with the lock being made in this topic.
Jim
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Jaeger3e.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Jaeger3e.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Jaeger3c.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Jaeger3c.jpg.html)
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Many thanks for taking the time to share this process!
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Guys,
Now that I am back in the USA, it is time to do a bit more work on this gunlock. This is forging the flintlock cock, a fun or a frustrating job depending on one's point of view. We start with an existing cock that is artistically what we want as a finished piece. The raw material is some nicely refined wrought iron from a set of blacksmith tongs. Here is the iron and the cock pattern.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%201_zpsmgr88lfo.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%201_zpsmgr88lfo.jpg.html)
Using a hacksaw, split the iron as shown.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%202_zpsgfz4hyzh.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%202_zpsgfz4hyzh.jpg.html)
Heat the iron orange hot at the end of the split and open to about a right angle. Generally this results in a tear at the end of the split. The tear is closed using a punch that looks a lot like a very dull cold chisel. Also, this tool is very handy for making the major bend for a mainspring. Hammer the punch down into the split until the tear disappears.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%203_zpsirvtkj9r.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%203_zpsirvtkj9r.jpg.html)
Next, hot forge the piece to thin and widen the two leaves and to thin the shank just below the split. Forge at orange heat.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%204_zps3arvoamn.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%204_zps3arvoamn.jpg.html)
Forge the leaf that will be the lower cock jaw to a "duck foot" shape and turn the part until the lower jaw leaf is at a right angle to the shank.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%205_zpshluiducz.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%205_zpshluiducz.jpg.html)
Now, do a lot of rough shaping with a coarse file to bring both the lower jaw and the thumb piece to near final dimensions.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%206_zpssfdxplg8.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%206_zpssfdxplg8.jpg.html)
Next, make the initial or top bend to match the pattern cock.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%207_zpsg9jiplkw.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%207_zpsg9jiplkw.jpg.html)
Now for a tricky part, the second or bottom bend. You will find that this is difficult to do without some sort of special tool.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%208_zps9rcfwd2k.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%208_zps9rcfwd2k.jpg.html)
This is necessary so that the grain of the wrought iron will follow the curve of the cock. I will end this post here and add to it later as it may be too large a file with all these photos.
Jim
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Jim,
You have WAY more energy and time, than I ever thought of having.
I think you also must have stock in Nicholson or some other file company.
Nice job and quite an undertaking.
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Guys,
Here is the jig tooling that I use to perform that difficult second bend in making the cock. It consists of two iron blocks with 1/4 inch diameter pins at the corners. You can clamp the blocks together in a vise so as to locate the pins at a variety of locations. This allows the jig to be used to make a lot of different style cocks.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%209_zpstcpxaudg.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%209_zpstcpxaudg.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%2010_zpsbdsfg7jh.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%2010_zpsbdsfg7jh.jpg.html)
Here is the jig set up to make a cock similar to the pattern I am using. Pretend that the blocks are being held in the vise jaws.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%2011_zpskovem006.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%2011_zpskovem006.jpg.html)
Here is the jig with the rough forging. Again, pretend that the jig is secure in the vise jaws and that the rough forging is orange hot. Now the second bend is made without straightening out the first bend. If you try to forge a wrought iron cock without such a jig, it can be frustrating.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%2012_zpsxllzzakz.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%2012_zpsxllzzakz.jpg.html)
After the second bend is completed, cut the rough forging from the original bar.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%2013_zpsyxc7qmql.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%2013_zpsyxc7qmql.jpg.html)
Now forge the lower part to make it a lot wider. Hammer from the exterior side of the cock only and you will form the inside shoulder of the cock at the same time as you widen the piece.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%2014_zpsy3z9isgp.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%2014_zpsy3z9isgp.jpg.html)
Now line up the rough forging and the pattern on a square edge, like an open vise jaw. The inner corner of the pattern and the rough forging should be tight against the edge. Scribe a mark through the pattern tumbler hole onto the rough forging. Don't trust your eyes here, use a pattern to locate the tumbler hole. Now drill a pilot hole at the scribe mark. Even though the location may look a bit weird, it is in the proper place.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%2015_zpsnsggzrav.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%2015_zpsnsggzrav.jpg.html)
Now cut the forging outline as you wish with the pilot hole on center.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%2016_zpsypafx9zy.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%2016_zpsypafx9zy.jpg.html)
Later, I will show the artistic (I hope) final shaping of the cock.
Jim
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Tomtom said this lock is the kats meow!!
Marc
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Thanks again for sharing.
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Guys,
Here are some photos of the nearly finished cock. It helps to have a good example to copy and compare to get the artistic part looking attractive.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%2017_zpscm2io6ct.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%2017_zpscm2io6ct.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%2018_zpszi6pmtdx.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Hammer%2018_zpszi6pmtdx.jpg.html)
Looking at the photo of the back side of the cock you can see that the shoulder or step is closer to the tumbler hole than it will be when finished. The cock is installed and the shoulder filed back until the cock rotates down to the proper position. Looking at the pattern cock, you can see the area that was filed back to let this one rotate to the proper position when it was installed. Also, on the new cock you can see a slag streak running through the center portion of the piece. This shows that the wrought iron grain is correctly curving around to follow the bend outline of the cock. No cross grain here.
This is really a fun part to make.
Jim
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This is great stuff, James! Thanks for sharing.
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Thankyou James -----I,m blown away --- really learnt a whole lot more--
now I have to start all over again ----as I see how the cockhammer is forged via your brilliant method!
amazing ---inspiring---
but that square hole----not for me --gave up long ago--
mine is now woodruff key --works for me--- no bridal needed now -
tumbler shaft &hammer fit together nicely --non crooked diamond shaped nightmare square hole/shaft
(someone told me it was done long ago --ie slotting a keyway on tumbler shaft )
so that was much easier ---no backlash --or wear at all ---just my way of improvising in the bush
regards C
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Carl,
A drill bit and a couple needle files can do the square hole just fine. However, I am going to make a square broach the next time I have to cut one. That is the way it was done through the 19th century. I do admit getting the hole oriented correctly can be a pain.
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Thanks Mark ---
if I can see how its done by professionals /experts ---
ie the techniques employed ---maybe I will gather the courage to file another
dozen cockhammer /tumbler shafts squares---all skew ---messed up so many ---I gave up
there is no u tube I can find showing the correct method --trial & error /blistered hands
-no luck ----as you say --I have never seen a needle file ----that's probably the cause
of crooked corners---but I live in the backwoods ----got to improvise --need ideas
thankyou for your kind words of wisdom --- I DRILLED my landrover steering shaft from 12 .5 pitted rusty ID --- TO 13 .2 mm --- using your technique---
and it worked ----very well indeed ---
I now have a 34 inch heavy steel 7 mm thick walled barrel --
test fired a 12 .8 mm crude lead slug ---today --- WOW ! what a difference in accuracy !
I could not drill the solid mild steel12l14 bar I bought from the supplier ---it had no guide hole to
ream /drill out ---that's why I opted fpr the trusty old steering rod ---no idea what carbon
steel it is ---but its relatively soft---welded a small flat plate -- on breech to press up against the bolster flash pan---drilled a 3 mm touchhole --- tapped a 5/8 breech plug thread hole-----separate tang ----copied your wolf--catalog illustrations as close as possible
much more robust /heavier than the dangerous thin walled water pipe I experimented with-
now it looks more like a Pennsylvania long rifle ---very heavy --& no brass fittings yet -
an original long rifle must weigh a ton with all the hardware /ramrod /brass fittings!
ok ---keep well -- c--will send a foto when stock is sanded etc
--
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Guys,
Now to mount the newly forged cock onto the tumbler. This can be a frustrating job, but here is the way I do it. First, file a nice square onto the round tumbler shaft so that only a tiny part of the round shaft shows on the outside of the lockplate when the tumbler is assembled. This gives a tiny gap between the lockplate outside and the cock inside, so it is very close, but does not rub.
Next, how to get the hammer on in the proper orientation? The hole in the cock shows the center, but at what angle? I put a small spot of soft solder on the inside surface of the cock around the pivot hole. Next I "mount" the cock onto the assembled lockplate & tumbler. I am sure that you understand that the cock will be way far from the lockplate by about 3/16 inch or so. Now turn the cock to what will be the proper orientation. I like the cock lower jaw tip to be about 3/16 inch away from the pan fence when the tumbler is in the fully down or fired position. Reach behind the cock with a sharp pointed tool and make scratches in the soft solder all around the square of the tumbler.
Next, remove the cock and punch mark the four corners of the scratch marks. There you have the guide for the proper orientation of the square hole in the cock. Now that old familiar file-n-fit, file-n-fit, file-n-fit until the cock mates tightly with the tumbler square.
As you can see in the photo of the lock interior, I still must file back the cock inside shoulder so that the shoulder hits the lockplate top edge at the same time as the tumbler shoulder hits the bridal. Next time for that.
Jim
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Square%203_zpsjoot1iao.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Square%203_zpsjoot1iao.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Square%204_zpsfsxmjzym.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Square%204_zpsfsxmjzym.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Square%206_zpslab6p6nn.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Square%206_zpslab6p6nn.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Square%207_zpsumki1jz1.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Square%207_zpsumki1jz1.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Square%201_zpsc7xzoizu.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Square%201_zpsc7xzoizu.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Square%202_zpsmpc4e3fl.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Square%202_zpsmpc4e3fl.jpg.html)
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When building a lock the best way to get the hammer hone positioned correctly is to do the tumbler hole and fit the hammer before the tumbler blank is cut to shape on the inside.
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I hate trying to fit a cock to a tumbler. If what Jerry means is to cut the notches in the tumbler after the cock is fit, then I agree that is best. Unfortunately, you can't always do that with repair work. The next time I have to fit a cock, I am going to make a square broach. I feel that would make the job so much easier in a number of ways.
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When building a lock the best way to get the hammer hone positioned correctly is to do the tumbler hole and fit the hammer before the tumbler blank is cut to shape on the inside.
YES,that is the way I do it and most if not all the hammers I use have a square hole in them as part of the casting process. Saves a lot of time and I use a milling machine with a carbide burr cylindrical shape to square the tumbler shank.My tumblers are all 1144 Stressproof which machines like 12L14 and hardens like drill rod in oil.ALL my tumblers start as a disc of 1-1/4" diameter with .310-.312 main shank and a .235 thickness and a .140 diameter support shaft thru the bridle. The diameter of the disc and main shank vary with the lock I am working on.The thickness usually finishes slightly narrower and the .140 remains the same.Oil hardening 0-1 is used for the sear and "fly" and screws are 12L14.
Bob Roller
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This is such an awsom discussion. Need to put all of this into a book. I started copy pasting all the pictures and descriptions into a word document from this and several other disscussions but it ended up too large. I need to get a better program that can deal with pictures and text better.
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Kudos, Mr. Everett. I would NEVER consider this project without access to a milling machine. I'm still a newbie.
-Joe
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Guys,
Now to finish the mounting of the cock onto the tumbler. In the above photos you can see that the interior shoulder of the cock is not in the final position. It needs to be reduced so that the cock will rotate to the proper down or fired position. This is done by filing the shoulder back until the shoulder will contact the top of the lockplate at the same time as the tumbler contacts the bridal plate lump. The tumbler and the cock should contact at the same time. Also, notice that the lower jaw of the cock is just about at the right place, too. This is why it is so very important to get the square hole orientation right.
Jim
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Square%208_zpszsbzaceh.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Square%208_zpszsbzaceh.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Square%209_zpseroy0sg4.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Square%209_zpseroy0sg4.jpg.html)
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Guys,
Now to start with the top jaw & screw. If you want more details of the way in which machine screws were made in the 18th century, check out the topic "18th c Screw Plate Use". Before making the top jaw screw we must make the screw tap from the18th c screwplate. Here is a photo of the tap and the screwplate, 0.216 - 23 size. The tap is hardened 1095 rod.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Top%20Jaw%201_zpsnere67ib.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Top%20Jaw%201_zpsnere67ib.jpg.html)
And, here is the top jaw and the screwplate.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Top%20Jaw%202_zpsbsxoe6pe.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Top%20Jaw%202_zpsbsxoe6pe.jpg.html)
The hole in the cock lower jaw was drilled at a public show-n-tell, it took a total of 4 sizes of 18th c fishtail bits followed by a tapered square reamer to bring it to the correct size. Here is the tap & cock.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Top%20Jaw%203_zpspkqdf4p9.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Top%20Jaw%203_zpspkqdf4p9.jpg.html)
And, finally the top jaw screw. On this one the threads were too tight, it took a bit of file-n-fit with a tiny triangular file until the fit was good.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Top%20Jaw%204_zpsk0utwucq.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Top%20Jaw%204_zpsk0utwucq.jpg.html)
Jim
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Thanks again, I always appreciate you sharing.
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Guys,
The next piece to make can be rather surprisingly challenging, the top jaw. Really, the only challenge is how to hold the thing while you shape it. The way I do this is to cut a rectangular piece of wrought iron, and do quite a bit of work on it before tapering and rounding the shape, so it is easy to clamp in a vise. I start with a piece of barn hinge that is just a bit thicker than the finished jaw. Next I drill a hole for the top jaw screw in a location that requires a bit of the "heel" metal to be removed before the jaw can be assembled onto the cock. There should be a rather close fit between the "heel" of the top jaw and the cock thumb piece extension so there is little slop here. Does this make sense? Anyway, here are a couple of photos of the rough rectangular piece and the initial drilled hole for the top jaw screw. More work later after the Schoenbrunn Village trades Fair.
Jim
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Top%20Jaw%205_zps6h5l8y6g.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Top%20Jaw%205_zps6h5l8y6g.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Top%20Jaw%206_zpscjzrzgfw.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Top%20Jaw%206_zpscjzrzgfw.jpg.html)
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Guys,
The next step is rather simple. Smooth the lower face of the top jaw, you will find that sometimes the rust pits in original iron go a bit deep, but file until all the surface is clean metal.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Top%20Jaw%207_zpsnhlpuenh.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Top%20Jaw%207_zpsnhlpuenh.jpg.html)
Next file the rear of the top jaw until the piece just allows the top jaw screw to fit into the threaded hole in the cock. You do not want much of a gap between the back of the top jaw and the cock thumb piece.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Top%20Jaw%208_zpsfhxvd8tn.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Top%20Jaw%208_zpsfhxvd8tn.jpg.html)
Notice that the rough top jaw is still rectangular, so it is still easy to hold in a vise. This will change later and be a lot more difficult to hold.
Jim
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At CW, they use a die to make the top jaw. It might seem like a lot of trouble for such a small part, but as you said, it is hard to hold while you file it. I believe the die also includes a post for the hole. I plan to make a set of forging dies, including the top jaw and bottom of the cock. I fully intend to cheat on the die and use a rotary grinder. ;)
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Guys,
I started making the sear spring at the Schoenbrunn Village Colonial Trades Fair. This is a fun part to make when you make it in the same way as originals. This part is not just a thin piece of sheet steel bent around the mounting screw, no. The proper sear spring is a solid piece all the way around the mounting screw. I cut the part from a square rod of 1095 spring steel. First I drill the clearance hole for the sear spring mounting screw. Next I cut away the metal leaving only a thin leaf for the actual working part of the spring. Then I cut the rough part from the bar. Next time, shaping the spring.
Jim
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/sear%20spring%201_zps14vi9nfn.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/sear%20spring%201_zps14vi9nfn.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/sear%20spring%202_zpss7p7auux.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/sear%20spring%202_zpss7p7auux.jpg.html)
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Wouldn't it be a lot easier to buy a Chambers lock?
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I was fortunate enough to see the beginnings of this frizzen spring at Schoenbrunn and the opportunity to meet Jim too. Nice work.
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Guys,
I started making the sear spring at the Schoenbrunn Village Colonial Trades Fair. This is a fun part to make when you make it in the same way as originals. This part is not just a thin piece of sheet steel bent around the mounting screw, no. The proper sear spring is a solid piece all the way around the mounting screw. I cut the part from a square rod of 1095 spring steel. First I drill the clearance hole for the sear spring mounting screw. Next I cut away the metal leaving only a thin leaf for the actual working part of the spring. Then I cut the rough part from the bar. Next time, shaping the spring.
Jim
(https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1137.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fn514%2FJamesEverett%2Fgunlocks%2FProcess%2Fsear%2520spring%25201_zps14vi9nfn.jpg&hash=3e1db16eafc10019c92d6170931323f8996d82eb) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/sear%20spring%201_zps14vi9nfn.jpg.html)
(https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1137.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fn514%2FJamesEverett%2Fgunlocks%2FProcess%2Fsear%2520spring%25202_zpss7p7auux.jpg&hash=e2eb89ed6324a630c5e999a01a3ab754db2c08fe) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/sear%20spring%202_zpss7p7auux.jpg.html)
This sort of thing sounds similar to what the long deceased Lucian Cary wrote about an old man in
a place called Hildalgo,Ky who forged mainsprings from cold chisels. Cary commented the old guy probably couldn't read and wouldn't know what to do with a steel company catalog. I thin the old fellow's name was Wyatt Atkinson. Anyone ever hear of such a man??
Bob Roller
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You are correct - his name was Wyatt Atkinson. I recall reading an article about his work many years ago. I also remember that he said he used old hay fork tines as another source of spring steel (the big old curved tines from a horse drawn hay rake).
J.B.
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Next the sear spring must be filed to the proper contour. It is best to drill the screw hole in the spring first, and then file the outside edges to align with the existing hole. I find it rather difficult to drill a hole exactly on center, but easy to file the outside to match the hole. Does this make sense? The spring edge is filed away leaving the rough mounting tab in place. The tab remains a bit too big at this point, and the spring remains a bit to long and too thick. Later all will be reduced to the proper dimensions for a good spring. Remember, it is easy to make things a bit smaller, but tough to make them a bit larger!
Jim
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/sear%20spring%204_zpsbxbx6qwo.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/sear%20spring%204_zpsbxbx6qwo.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/sear%20spring%203_zpsuaddldzt.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/sear%20spring%203_zpsuaddldzt.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/sear%20spring%205_zpsxowzgtkf.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/sear%20spring%205_zpsxowzgtkf.jpg.html)
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Next the sear spring must be filed to the proper contour. It is best to drill the screw hole in the spring first, and then file the outside edges to align with the existing hole. I find it rather difficult to drill a hole exactly on center, but easy to file the outside to match the hole. Does this make sense? The spring edge is filed away leaving the rough mounting tab in place. The tab remains a bit too big at this point, and the spring remains a bit to long and too thick. Later all will be reduced to the proper dimensions for a good spring. Remember, it is easy to make things a bit smaller, but tough to make them a bit larger!
Jim
(https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1137.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fn514%2FJamesEverett%2Fgunlocks%2FProcess%2Fsear%2520spring%25204_zpsbxbx6qwo.jpg&hash=c68076438be0491271e6051f06fb3164ce345ea7) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/sear%20spring%204_zpsbxbx6qwo.jpg.html)
(https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1137.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fn514%2FJamesEverett%2Fgunlocks%2FProcess%2Fsear%2520spring%25203_zpsuaddldzt.jpg&hash=2ec263dc17c531e0a7dfbc3f7f16cae4dac67963) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/sear%20spring%203_zpsuaddldzt.jpg.html)
(https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1137.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fn514%2FJamesEverett%2Fgunlocks%2FProcess%2Fsear%2520spring%25205_zpsxowzgtkf.jpg&hash=f6e9e391421bcecc14349c62ccbfef9f2223e3cd) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/sear%20spring%205_zpsxowzgtkf.jpg.html)
That's a universal left and right side sear spring blank. Looks like a good job to me.
Bob Roller
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Wouldn't it be a lot easier to buy a Chambers lock?
It would also be a lot easier to go buy an inline at Walmart. ;)
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I made a couple of these. I made the spring to the right thickness, but bending it was difficult. After heating it was so easy to bend I had a hard time getting it where I wanted it. It was like bending a rubber band. The next time I thought I'd reduce the inside flat to finished size, but leave the outside alone. This would leave the spring thick for bending, then I could thin the spring by filing the outside afterwards.
Jim... you're the expert. Would this work? Have you had this problem? How do you handle it?
P.S.
I think this kind of spring makes for a better trigger pull. I think the flat springs are a bit stiff and don't bend exactly right for a good smooth rotation of the sear.
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Guys,
Now that I am back in the US, it is time to do a little more work. Finishing the top jaw, the difficult thing is how to hold the part for the final filing. I just use a wood screw and fasten the jaw to a piece of wood.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Top%20Jaw%2010_zpsb4m92h0e.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Top%20Jaw%2010_zpsb4m92h0e.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Top%20Jaw%209_zpspa7noock.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Top%20Jaw%209_zpspa7noock.jpg.html)
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Top%20Jaw%2011_zpslt47wsay.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Top%20Jaw%2011_zpslt47wsay.jpg.html)
The upper and lower flat surfaces of the top jaw are not parallel. The jaw thickness is a bit less at the heel where is contacts the cock post. When you tighten the top jaw screw this tends to force the tip more tightly onto the flint. Looking at the photos I think that you can see this. Sometimes the screw hole in the jaw must be adjusted or elongated a little bit to allow for this action. This is very slight, but important. This is why the hole in the top photo is a bit out of round.
Next time - I repent of using a store-bought frizzen earlier. We will see one way of forging this difficult part!
Jim
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James: I have an old worn out sharpening steel - used on chef's knives. It's taper and fine lengthwise ridges hold the top jaw for filing. I just tap it into the bottom surface until it's tight and clamp the steel into the vise. For engraving, set the jaw into Bondo on a piece of wood you can clamp in your vise.
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Guys,
Now for a difficult part, the frizzen. Earlier in this topic I used a store-bought frizzen, not a good way to show how to really make a gunlock. My apology for being lazy. I find the hammer or cock a really fun part to make. Not so with the frizzen. Anyway, here we go. I start with a square bar of W1 tool steel, nearly the same as 1095 steel, fully hardenable water quench steel. Use 9/16 or 5/8 inch square bar.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen%208_zpsjpjv9rq1.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen%208_zpsjpjv9rq1.jpg.html)
Forge a blade that is the width and length needed for the frizzen. Leave a sharp transition back to square. The remaining square part will eventually be the frizzen section that has the pivot hole/cam/stop. If you try to make a frizzen from a piece of flat stock, it is much more difficult to "bump-up" the section here to a larger thickness. When forging it is a lot easier to make a thick part thinner than it is to make a thin part thicker. Here you can see I forged a small bump that will be the part of the frizzen pan cover away from the flash hole side.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen%209_zpsufe6awcm.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen%209_zpsufe6awcm.jpg.html)
Next, make the bend at the transition of the frizzen from the pan cover to the blade. You must work a lot on this bend to get the outside corner really square and sharp. This takes me at least a dozen heats to change the bend from a gentle curve to a sharp corner. You really should not try to short cut this step.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen%2010_zpsgg8w1tne.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen%2010_zpsgg8w1tne.jpg.html)
Next, bend the remaining square section down for the hole/cam/stop area. Cut the rough frizzen from the bar leaving plenty of material for this section, don't cut it too short.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen%2011_zpspepbwsdj.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen%2011_zpspepbwsdj.jpg.html)
Next, split the square section with a hack saw and spread the two leaves apart. Just as with the hammer, you may need to use the dull cold chisel tool to close up any tear at the tip of the split as you open the two leaves. Rough forge and file until the frizzen looks like this. As you can see, I have smoothed the pan cover and blade sections a lot.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen%2012_zpsqceglarc.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen%2012_zpsqceglarc.jpg.html)
At this point, file the sharp outside square, the pan cover bottom and the side of the hole/cam/stop to very nearly the finished dimension. Don't worry that the part is rather ugly now, here is where you set the final dimensions for the frizzen to function properly. Now glue the rough frizzen to the top of the flash pan using super glue as before with the store-bought one. This allows the pivot hole to be drilled as to maintain proper alignment, I know that this is "cheating" for the HC folks.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen%2013_zpscdukr8kh.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen%2013_zpscdukr8kh.jpg.html)
Drill the hole for the pivot screw. I did use a drill press and a twist drill here, the crowd was not watching. Give the frizzen a rap with a hammer and the super glue joint will release. Finish enlarging the pivot hle to the proper diameter for the pivot screw shank. The drill should follow the existing hole.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen%2014_zpsqy77glja.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen%2014_zpsqy77glja.jpg.html)
Now we begin filing the part to bring it to the shape and style we want. Here I want a rounded shape to match the eventual rounded shape of the lock plate. You could just as easily file the part to an angled shape with flats.
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen%2016_zpskery5et8.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Frizzen%2016_zpskery5et8.jpg.html)
Lastly we bend the blade to a proper curve and bend the stop to an attractive curve and make the whole thing "Pretty" But that for later.
Jim
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Wouldn't it be a lot easier to buy a Chambers lock?
It would also be a lot easier to go buy an inline at Walmart. ;)
I love this thread. It is like an online college course for flintlock riflesmiths. It would be easier...... I don't do any of this for easy. I want to learn. If I ever intend to consider myself a gunsmith I need to be able to build a complete rifle from scratch. That is my goal and I hope I live long enough to accomplish it! I have made all the internal parts for a lock individually but not a complete lock yet. Started on a forge welded barrel but not finished yet. Plan to work on that project again next week end. Hope to get the whole thing welded and start building the drilling bench.
My hat is off to the amazing craftsman who can take a set of parts and produce a real work of art like some of the gorgeous pieces we see here. I don't think any of my guns will ever reach that level of art but I am fascinated with the process and want to learn all I can about it.
Thanks again James!
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Jim, do you bend a radius in the frizzen face? I am anxiou to try a whole lock. We have another barrel welding session scheduled for this Friday and Saturday and if we ever get a good barrel welded up that rifle will need a scratch built lock.
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David,
Yes, the frizzen blade will be bent to a curve, the stop will be bent to that artistic curl, and the whole thing made "pretty". This is where it is a good idea to have on hand an example of what a "pretty" frizzen should look like. Sometimes my stuff looks rather clunky. I am more of a mechanic than an artist. When I get my round tuit, the frizzen will be finished!
Jim
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Guys,
I forgot to include this little photo of the simple jig to hold the cock top jaw for the final shaping with the file. Just a simple block of scrap wood to hold in the vise with a wood screw to hold the top jaw in place. As you can see in the photo one side of the top jaw still needs to be shaped. The flat surface on the upper side of the top jaw should not be much larger than the flange or rim of the top jaw screw. I tend to shape the remainder of the top jaw as a straight line or bevel to the edge, not as a concave or other shape. There is really not a lot of metal left when the top jaw is finished.
Jim
(https://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/gunlocks/Process/Top%20Jaw%2012_zps8hyddj4z.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/JamesEverett/media/gunlocks/Process/Top%20Jaw%2012_zps8hyddj4z.jpg.html)
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Compulsive viewing. Just fascinating. A question on the hand made (or bought-in) frizzen if I may. Do you have a method for matching the curve on the face to the arc of rotation of the flint edge? Is that something you determine in your design and layput before you start the construction?
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Compulsive viewing. Just fascinating. A question on the hand made (or bought-in) frizzen if I may. Do you have a method for matching the curve on the face to the arc of rotation of the flint edge? Is that something you determine in your design and layput before you start the construction?
Me too, I want to learn more.
Thanks!
BartSr
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Is there any more progress on the lock? I have loved seeing the process, and learned so much
thank you
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Your skill is just amazing to me.
Not to mention the patience required while doing all that file work.
I just can't understand how you can file that plate down and have it all a uniform thickness??
Just dont think I could ever do that.
Seems like a job for a milling machine, and then I still dont think I could do it.
Amazing
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Wow, Just Wow!!! Thank you for sharing this. Where abouts in Western Pa? I'm about 50 mile south of Pittsburgh and About 20 miles from Morgantown WV.
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I read all of he original posts on how to make the flintlock lock with wrought iron, but have some questions regarding temper and heat treating. I was able to find some very good quality wrought iron that is 100 plus years old and want to try my hand at creating a fully functional lock. Once all the parts have been cut out and filed and appear to be correct, which parts need to be hardened or tempered? Hopefully someone can provide that detail. Thanks, Bob
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As an absolute minimum, the tumbler, the sear, and the frizzen need to be hardened and tempered appropriately, or case hardened appropriately. The frizzen can be through hardened if it is steel, or case hardened if it is iron.
Any fly and any stirrup need to be hardened/tempered as well.
Springs of course need to be hardened and tempered, though you might get away with the sear spring not being so as the travel is small.
It is useful if the lock plate and bridle are hardened as well, so they don't wear fast. Case hardening would certainly be good for these parts. I understand to beware of lock plate warpage. I've not hardened a lock plate so have no experience doing so with that part. I've done all the rest, through hardening not case. Steel, not iron.
Gerald
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Likely most originals were almost all wrought iron with the working parts (tumbler, sear etc.,) case hardened. The frizzen could be iron and deeply case hardened or laminated with steel face. The springs of course would have to be steel.