AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Tutorials => Gunmaking tools and techniques- metal shaping => Topic started by: Ed Wenger on January 29, 2015, 06:13:07 AM
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I didn't see anything in the tutorial section about this, so I thought it might be helpful to some of our newer members. I'm currently building a fowler and needed to move a lug as it had some placement problems with the trigger plate. You could also use this method to replace a lug that needs to be longer...
first, the lug that needs to be moved or replaced is cut off from the trigger guard
(https://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k60/VAriflegun/IMG_2501-Copy_zpsa611a269.jpg)
Next, a shoulder is filed on the replacement lug
(https://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k60/VAriflegun/IMG_2502-Copy_zps684be2a3.jpg)
A hole is then drilled in the trigger guard, roughly shaped with a jewelers saw, then filed to fit the lug. A bevel is then filed on the top edge of this opening.
(https://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k60/VAriflegun/IMG_2503-Copy_zpsfbcafabe.jpg)
The tab on the new lug is then peened into the beveled opening in the trigger guard
(https://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k60/VAriflegun/IMG_2505-Copy_zps1d455c6c.jpg)
(https://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k60/VAriflegun/IMG_2507-Copy_zpsa6f0de84.jpg)
Lastly, the lug is filed smooth with the trigger guard.
(https://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k60/VAriflegun/IMG_2508-Copy_zps751e703a.jpg)
This is a simple fix to a fairly common problem, and I feel superior to silver soldering.
Ed
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Nice work, and a good looking guard, are anymore around like it ? I see mold lines is it new---newer ?
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Wow, a real timely post for me! I have a lug to move, along with some other changes. I was thinking about this on my drive to work this morning. I was planning on a mortice and tenon joint but had figured on soldering. Thanks for sharing this! This forum is great!
Blessings, Bill
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Nice work. A couple other options are to just drill a hole, peen the lug in it and then silver braze. In fact, you don't even need to peen it in place with silver braze. A butt joint will be more than strong enough. If you have any doubts, just braze a test piece like this and try to pull it off.
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That is how I put lugs on my forged iron guards. Good post.
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Excellent tutorial Ed. Typical of your artistic and professional talent.
As I read it, it occurred to me that this is similar to the way traditional Colt 1911 front sights are staked in.
I am not a builder, but I love reading these forums. You guys are AMAZING artists, and are so generous in sharing what you know. My sincere thanks to all.
God Bless, Marc
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Fabulous!
Someone please remind me to move this to the tutorial section in a few days?
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Glad this is helpful! I didn't invent it, and I'm sure more than a few guys do the same thing, I just had my iPhone handy when I did it, so I thought I'd snap some photos. As Jim said, there are other methods...
I have no idea where I picked up this guard, it's been laying around the shop for some time, waiting for the right project. If anyone knows who makes the guard, I'd love to know as we'll. It has a small bow, but I really like the design. Best,
Ed
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I agree with Ed that the mechanical joint is better for this project, than a silver soldered one. A faint silver line is unavoidable at the joint with silver solder. I use silver solder, however, on brass guards.
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Nice share Ed.
That TG looks to be one by Mike Lea. He originally made it for a reduced size fowling piece IIRC.
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Nice catch, James! I looked at the trigger guard and on one of the lugs it's stamped "Michael Lea". Should have asked you first, lol...
Ed