AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Contemporary Longrifle Collecting => Topic started by: GregH on September 25, 2017, 06:22:25 PM
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I have been out of black powder shooting for about 20 years and have gotten the urge to get back into it. I just bought this rifle on gunbroker, but the seller didn't have much information on it. Any help on identifying the parts or who built it would be great. Thanks http://www.gunbroker.com/item/694329748 I do realize that I might not be able to find out much about it until I receive it, but that will be a week or so....
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The lock is either an early Maslin copy made here, years ago, or a copy of the copy made in Spain. Neither one is of good quality. L&R makes a replacement that is better, but is not a drop in fix. Who made the barrel? The woodwork looks pretty good to me. The buttplate looks like it came from a Hawken, rather than a Southern Mountain Rifle.
Hungry Horse
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The seller said he didn't know who made the barrel. If the lock is bad then I'm wondering if I should not buy this rifle?
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Unknown barrel, so-so lock, decently assembled. I was able to tune some of those Maislin style locks to be reliable. I'd ask for a picture of the bore with a bore light.
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The description says clean shiny bore so I hope he's describing it accurately.
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I'm of the opinion that one should not bid on an item unless he or she plans to follow through with the purchase. To walk away merely because you didn't do your research before bidding is unfair to the seller. Sure, he can relist it, but it costs him time and effort, and you risk your good name if he rightfully posts negative feedback.
For the price, I'd say you did fine. Get it, shoot it and enjoy it. I would recommend getting an L&R replacement lock, if you can find it. Keep the original lock as a backup, or sell it on ebay.
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I wasn't going to walk away from it, but I have a 3 day inspection period with the right to return it if not satisfied.
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Greg, I started to buy it myself. The lock is the only real issue,I have seen worse sell for more. When I sell a longrifle,I offer the 3 day unfured return policy. Havent had one come back as yet.
Get it,shoot it,learn all you can about the gun and enjoy it. If the lock fizzles out,you do have options.
Best regards, welcome aboard. Dave F ;D 8)
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Thanks Dave. I hope it will turn out to be a good gun for me.
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Don't get me wrong about these Russ Hamm, or even the CVA copies, of the old Maslin locks. If you just shoot occasionally it will probably be fine, but if you intend to shoot the heck out of it, the internals will fail. I own a big smoothbore pistol made from a pile of old kit gun parts, that has a CVA flintlock on it from a mountain rifle. I only shoot it in parades, or at reenactments, and it has been fine. But the number of rounds fired is very low.
Hungry Horse
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Greg
Jackie Brown advertises the same gun with better parts for about the same price. If you can afford to go up to $1,000-$1,200 range, there are some very nice, very underpriced rifles that show up on this site from time to time.
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Greg it looks like a decent gun. I have two guns with Russ Hamm locks. One Maslin an the other a Bedford. Both flint, both still sparking good. Both from the seventies.
Hunt squirrels with both guns every year. No complaints.
For a starting gun it's a fair price. Just my opinion. Oldtravler
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Thanks for all the helpful information! I'll probably go ahead and get the L&R lock for it.
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Before you buy the L&R replacement lock, get a TOTW catalog that has photos of the locks they offer in full scale. There are several small flintlocks that might be close to the right size for this application that are better quality, and style, than the L&R replacement. They won't be a lot more money either. And since the L&R requires fitting anyway, why not go with the best you can get. I think there is a Chambers, and possibly a Davis, lock that might serve you better.
Hungry Horse
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I will definitely do that. tks
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You may be surprised at how well it shoots with the existing lock. That is a fine rifle for the price. Had I seen that, I may have taken a swipe at winning it.
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You may be surprised at how well it shoots with the existing lock.
Greg,
Heed this advice and don't start changing things right off the bat. There are those who too readily condemn. You haven't even fired the rifle yet and you will have a learning curve making it fire if you have never shot a flintlock before. The previous advice is like saying your 1978 Ford F150 is $#@* and you should go right out and buy a 2017 model.
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I plan to fire it with the existing lock first. And I do have flintlock experience.....its just been several years since I have owned one.
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The existing lock may do just fine. My feeling is that a spare lock is a wise investment because it may be hard to find a replacement lock in 10 or 20 years.
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Very true....
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I will add that there is another aspect to this hobby that I have come to appreciate recently. There is just about nothing in the world of traditional muzzleloaders that cannot be fixed or replicated, and I'm glad there are a number of skilled members of this forum on whom I can call if I ever needed something.
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The rifle arrived yesterday. Overall I think it looks pretty good, but I'd like to get opinions on it. I'm not really happy with some of the pins sticking out and holes left where the pins look to have been moved. Thanks your help.
https://imgur.com/a/CAXap
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Greg, those pins are easy fixes. Remove, shorten, re-insert, and fill the hole with a crayon of appropriate color.
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Ok, thanks. What is the best way to remove them without damaging the wood? Small punch of the correct size?
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GregH,
If a pin is sticking out on both sides of the stock, remove the pin and file the end off until it sits flush with the wood on both sides. Also file a very small bevel on the ends of the pin so it doesn't snag and push a chip of wood out.
It looks like one of the pins might just need to be pushed back in a little. Or taken out and rotated 180 degrees. Some times the end of the pin will be filed at an angle to match the angle of the side of the stock . If the pins are loose in the wood, pull the pin out and rub some beeswax on it and reinstall.
The hole above the ramrod pipe appears to be empty, but there should be a pin in there, holding the RR pipe in place. You can either make a new, longer pin, so the hole is filled. Or just rub some beeswax in there to fill the hole.
Good score. Have fun.
-Ron
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Ok, thanks. What is the best way to remove them without damaging the wood? Small punch of the correct size?
Use a punch that's a little smaller than the pin. Shouldn't take much pressure to push them out.
-Ron
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Thanks
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To make a good punch for pins take a finishing nail of a size that fits snugly. They often have a little divot on the head. File the head carefully to be same diameter as shaft. Insert the pointy end into a hole drilled in a short piece of ramrod dowel. The little divot will help center the punch on the pin.
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Thanks again!
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I think you did well. I would have bought that, too.
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I'm glad you think that I did well. I want to remove the barrel sometime and see if I can find out who made it.
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Don't take the pins out all the way, use a small punch to tap them out just a tad, file them, push them back in and see how the pin sits.
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To fix the holes permanently, I would fill wih a tooth pick, shishkabob bob stick, or small wooden dowl rod. Then stain and put some super glue on the ends or epoxy and rub it back as it dries. I don't like holes in my stock ....others mentioned good fixes and they will work too... Just depends on how far ya wanna go.
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I shot the rifle yesterday and am very pleased with it.
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Hey Greg, glad you got to shoot it and are happy with it. looks like a good rifle to learn the basics with. I am glad I didnt buy it so you could. best regards, Dave F 8) 8)
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Hey Dave, thanks a bunch!