AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Shop Made Tools => Topic started by: David R. Pennington on November 25, 2017, 05:13:06 AM
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A good friend is helping me rebuild these antique bellows. I hope to have them up and running in my shop soon. We got a 15 gallon trash can almost full of critter nests out of them but there was suprisingly little damage.
(https://preview.ibb.co/kPiexm/IMG_3431.jpg) (http://ibb.co/h36ciR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/muoCHm/IMG_3441.jpg) (http://ibb.co/b7O1A6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/k1L3OR/IMG_3487.jpg) (http://ibb.co/mZwciR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/jWEV3R/IMG_3489.jpg) (http://ibb.co/m4q3OR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/izQEV6/IMG_3494.jpg) (http://ibb.co/di4mcm)
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Please continue to post pictures and you move through the restoration!
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It's always a good idea to wear a dust type mask when you clean out any kind of "critter" nests.
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(https://preview.ibb.co/m7fpHm/IMG_3497.jpg) (http://ibb.co/cNyLOR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/joYn3R/IMG_3499.jpg) (http://ibb.co/bDJyA6)
Plugged hundreds and hundreds of nail and tack holes with matchsticks, toothpicks and glue. Very tedious but I think it will pay off when time to tack on new leather. The leather is nailed to the top paddle, center stationary section, bottom paddle and two intermediate ribs. That means there are five pieces with hundreds of holes around the perimeter to plug. One of the ribs is shown below with holes plugged and brace and lap joints re-glued. The second rib had one end busted and mouse damage to the brace. It is under clamps with a splice repair glued and dowelled in.
(https://preview.ibb.co/g981xm/IMG_3542.jpg) (http://ibb.co/ehXiA6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/gOxiA6/IMG_3543.jpg) (http://ibb.co/bN1Aq6)
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Wow! That's a lot of plugs, but, I think you're right, it'll pay off in the end.
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Rib repairs completed. The worst damage was where a rodent chewed through the intersection of one end of a brace on one rib. One interesting thing we found were small empty mortices spaced around the edges of all the components; center board, upper and lower paddles and ribs. What we deduced was that these mortices would line up with small strips that were evidently installed temporarily to hold all the components in alignment in their expanded position evidently so patterns could be made to cut the leather. Hopefully I can get time soon to begin reassembly.
(https://preview.ibb.co/fLr4qR/IMG_3576.jpg) (http://ibb.co/hsScAR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/ksJHAR/IMG_3578.jpg) (http://ibb.co/mQuqVR)
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The valves have been resurfaced with new leather and reinstalled with nylon webbing for hinges. It is interesting for me to note some details. The valve boards were made from one piece with stiffeners dovetailed in across the backs. They still show the marks of the depth gauge scribed around edges that set out the depth for the dovetail grooves. After cleaning 150 years of soot off valve boards I could also see the marks from the hand plane including the little ridge repeated all over the surface left by a nick in the plane iron. It is obvious dovetails were cut in by eye with no regard to exacting measurement or square, done in 'workman like manner'. (see 3rd and 4th pictures down in original post)
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Thanks for the updates. This is a really cool project.
Robby
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David, what a meticulous restoration. I suspect certain advantages to using this type of bellows over the rotary ones. On the sheep station my late father managed, the old bellows in the blacksmith shop stood on end near the forge having been replaced by a rotary set. I have a rotary set on my own buffalo forges. I guess the main advantage may have been less room taken and rodent damage re the rotary type. Will look forward to seeing a picture of it in action.
Happy New Year from down under
Gordon
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Happy New year to you as well Gordon. The bellows do take up a lot of room and that may be a problem in my tiny shop. They will definately have to go overhead. May take some manuvering to get it positioned with lever in a convenient place.
I have worked with crank and lever blowers and electric blower forges. I have also spent a good bit of time with traditional bellows forge and like it best. There is something quite soothing about the rythmic muffled clack and heartbeat of the valves.
There are some advantages as well. You can get several seconds of continued blast after you quit pumping the lever as the upper chamber empties itself. This gives you some time to manipulate your work and get your hammer in your hand. You can also fine tune the intensity of your blast for heavier work by adding weight onto the top paddle. I think it is also easier ergonomically to pull the lever than to rotate a crank. I also tend to burn up more steel with electric blowers and often forget to hit the switch when pulling work out thus wasting fuel.
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Starting to come together. All reassembled and temporarily braced in expanded position. Patterns made for the leather and 1/4 the leather cut out to fit. It is upside down on the bench at this point.
(https://preview.ibb.co/kt5Dmb/IMG_3680.jpg) (http://ibb.co/kXf2ew)
(https://preview.ibb.co/ek2tmb/IMG_3681.jpg) (http://ibb.co/fJcR6b)
photo upload (http://imgbb.com/)
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Hey Dave how's this working out? Like to see a shot of the cmplete setup if you get the chance..
Ed
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Dave, what does the assembled bellows weigh?
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I have all the leather sewn, stained and oiled and ready to go back on. Just waiting for a chance to get back to it. I have no idea what it weighs but it is a two man job to move it.
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David, it was nice meeting you Saturday, and getting to talk a little about your iron mounted rifles. This sure looks like a neat project, but I think I’ll stick to my old Champion hand crank for now! I’d have to build a new forge to make room for that monster.
Greg
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Thanks Greg. Certainly enjoyed meeting you. It was a good day and I always look forward to this meeting.
I got a chance to get some more work done on the bellows today. All the leather is installed. The wood for the strips that are nailed around the edges of all the components have been sawn out, the edges chamfered with a plane and all the pieces bundled and laid in the pond out back of the shop to limber up.
We took a little shortcut the original builders didn't have and stapled the leather on where it won't show. We saved as many of the original nails as we could and should have plenty to nail it all back with.
(https://preview.ibb.co/cvj6dm/IMG_3895.jpg) (http://ibb.co/jVzuW6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/cP3MB6/IMG_3903.jpg) (http://ibb.co/fyOcjR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/kRgV4R/IMG_3904.jpg) (http://ibb.co/e8bKym)
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Finished up the work on bellows and tested on bench, they will idle a full 11 seconds, the ones I use at the museum go 9. Next to get them in the shop and put to use!
(https://preview.ibb.co/gRQwwH/IMG_3922.jpg) (http://ibb.co/na3S3x)
(https://preview.ibb.co/ernRwH/IMG_3923.jpg) (http://ibb.co/hBPTAc)
(https://preview.ibb.co/m2eH3x/IMG_3924.jpg) (http://ibb.co/eLQDbH)
(https://preview.ibb.co/msrKGH/IMG_3925.jpg) (http://ibb.co/csjvqc)
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Leather washers that will go over trunnions as spacers to keep working clearance between sides and mounts.
(https://preview.ibb.co/hom3bH/IMG_3927.jpg) (http://ibb.co/bPhbwH)
A couple of the original wrought iron nails split like this when driving them back in.
(https://preview.ibb.co/gxcbwH/IMG_3931.jpg) (http://ibb.co/cTHbwH)
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That looks awesome...can’t wait to see it in place in your forge. Be sure and post more photos when you get it installed!
Greg
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Very cool project! Thanks for the pictures.
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Hats off David, well done!!!!! Can't wait to see it in your shop.
Robby
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(https://preview.ibb.co/cZPXY7/IMG_1527.jpg) (http://ibb.co/cBGeD7)
(https://preview.ibb.co/kxg70n/IMG_3945.jpg) (http://ibb.co/mUHfLn)
Here are the bellows as they went in the shop over a year ago and how they came out today. They made the trip in the pouring rain from my friend's shop to mine and all the preparations were made to hang them overhead in my shop. In the morning we will hoist them up with block and tackle and hopefully have them running by afternoon.
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@!*%, that is a ripper of a job, they look magnificent. Please do shew us how the bellows looks all set up in your shop, I gather they sit over head. Should feel pretty pleased with yourself !!
Cheers
Gordon
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(https://preview.ibb.co/gYrPgS/IMG_3954.jpg) (http://ibb.co/fGhmvn)
(https://preview.ibb.co/nKJRvn/IMG_3955.jpg) (http://ibb.co/kGr1T7)
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Thanks for the photos, I have never seen a setup for bellows here in Australia like that, not to say we don't have any, but I have never seen one. I assume you have a remote lever hooked up to the cordage operating the bellows. I love what I assume is the oak construction of the smithy.
Cheers
Gordon
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Gordon,
We hung the bellows as far back in the corner as possible and as high as we could to maximize head clearance. This limited the amount of room we had above to work the lever pole. We experimented till we came up with this arrangement. At the back of the bellows a rope attaches to the pull hook on the bottom board, feeds through a pulley fixed to a rafter, back down around a pulluy at the window sill and is fixed to the end of the dogwood lever pole. This pole is hinged via the 1/2" rod you can see protruding out of the angle brace. The opposite end of the pole has a pull rope attached. I will try to post some better pictures later. Most of the wood you see is yellow poplar ftom a local saw mill. I could have gotten white oak for the same money but the poplar is a bit lighter and easier to work with.
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Here is how we lifted them in place.
(https://preview.ibb.co/e1xvo7/IMG_3948.jpg) (http://ibb.co/fYXT87)
(https://preview.ibb.co/f0f4gS/IMG_3950.jpg) (http://ibb.co/dKMYan)
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David, those look awesome! That’s quite a worthwhile addition, I’d say!
Greg
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David, thanks for the additional information. Will be interested to see the finished set up when it is finally plumbed into the forge. I have a small set of fireside bellows to repair, you have inspired me to have a go. To hot down under to fire up the forge at the moment, but Autumn seems to be coming early this year so not far away to start again.
Cheers
Gordon
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Here is the plumbing and the apparatus. I tried it out breifly last evening and it works. Seems a little 'heavy'. I wish I had overcome my desire to keep it all original and made lighter valve boards. I think I can tune it a little and get better performance. I already have a couple ideas on how to balance things a bit.
(https://preview.ibb.co/dn3Qsc/IMG_3966.jpg) (http://ibb.co/iB8rXc)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mzLS5x/IMG_3967.jpg) (http://ibb.co/b5CJCc)
(https://preview.ibb.co/jtsUJH/IMG_3968.jpg) (http://ibb.co/dUo3dH)
(https://preview.ibb.co/fcTQsc/IMG_3969.jpg) (http://ibb.co/dxAukx)
(https://preview.ibb.co/goTfQx/IMG_3970.jpg) (http://ibb.co/n6YrXc)
(https://preview.ibb.co/iHbZkx/IMG_3974.jpg) (http://ibb.co/d0F5sc)
(https://preview.ibb.co/cjsksc/IMG_3975.jpg) (http://ibb.co/h0DEkx)
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Maybe add some lead sheet to the long handle, or an extra sheave on the cordage? Thanks for the view of the plumbing. Guess as time and use advances it will come to you how best to trick it up for easier operation. Looking forward to seeing some of your projects that you will forge in your smithy .
cheers
Gordon
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Very impressive,
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I've already changed the pulley arrangement and it pulls much lighter. I need to change the lever a bit to get a full sweep, and I have an idea for an anti-gravity device for the bottom valve that should speed up the drop.
Alot of guys soup up cars, I'm souping up a bellows!
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Any plans for line shafting in the future ?
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Wish I had room
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A very worthy project, very, very nicely done!!!!! Thank you for taking us along. Now, if you could just post a video of it in use.......... ;D
Robby
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(https://preview.ibb.co/kf6xvx/IMG_3994.jpg) (http://ibb.co/fA2Fhc)
(https://preview.ibb.co/kTsgNc/IMG_3995.jpg) (http://ibb.co/iPPHvx)
(https://preview.ibb.co/iES4ax/IMG_3997.jpg) (http://ibb.co/kRcRoH).
Well I reconfigured the apparatus and got it working much better. I added anti gravity devices to the bottom valve and that perked it up real well. I made two welds this afternoon with it with no problem. I need to figure out how to add some weight on top when I want high gear for welding. I am pretty pleased with it. I don't know how ti get a video on here Robby.
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Hah, me either!!! Thats all right, enjoy the heck out of it!!!!
Robby
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Dave, that’s an awesome setup! I’m envious...maybe someday!
Greg
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I need to figure out how to add some weight on top when I want high gear for welding.
Put some lead or cast iron in a bag, tied to a rope and pulley, drop the weight on when needed. Then lift the weight off when done.
This is a cool thread, thanks so much for sharing.
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Dave I have enjoyed fallowing you through your journey . Thank you!
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This thread is so cool. I have a forge set up going that does everything I need and more but after following this I am ready to build a new building, forge, chimney and bellows. I'd put the video up on YouTube and put the link here. Heck, you could charge admission to your forge. Very good job.
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Well thanks for the positive comments, but,...I have a problem now with the bellows. They worked great initially but during a long forging session after I had worked the bellows pretty hard I noticed it was harder and harder to get a strong blast. I started looking for a leak in my piping but no problems there.
I climbed on the ladder and leaning over to work the lever with one hand I felt air in my face. Here is what happened. The leather I used was repurposed upholstery leather, still in really good condition. Had to sew a few pieces together, no problem, lapped seams and double row of saddle stiches. The problem is the leather we used on the top half had some original factory seams. Here is where my problem lies. These seams aren’t lapped. They hold ok until the leather is worked real good and stretches some. Then all these seams leak! Aarhhgg!
Well the BRAND NEW leather has arrived and I am this moment rigging block and tackle to lower it onto sawhorses for a refit. Heck I’m gonna get good at this!
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David, wish I was closer. I know this is a labor of love but it is still all labor. I know a throw in of help could ease some of the frustrations, heck if you bought the beer I'm sure it could be done in record time.
Kevin
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Here is one of the offending seams, looks good, but won’t hold air.
(https://preview.ibb.co/mUjSgc/2561_E671_E650_462_A_9_FF3_8053478_D56_DE.jpg) (http://ibb.co/fBeFZx)
(https://preview.ibb.co/bHrUux/2_C0670e_BD_23_CF_4_E0_C_B364_796720_AB7940.jpg) (http://ibb.co/js6JnH)
Here is a seam that will hold air.
As the old saying goes, mistakes are only mistakes if you don’t learn from them.
(https://preview.ibb.co/kXtL1c/0_F25_B649_DB9_A_4344_B5_B5_71566653412_F.jpg) (http://ibb.co/n4UtMc)
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Too bad about your leather...it has a wonderful color and patina, and I’ll bet it looked right at home on those bellows. Hope you have better luck with the replacements.
Greg
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Well I got the beast stripped down today and all the nails and staples pulled (again). I can at least use the old leather as patterns. I think I will take the opportunity to perhaps redesign the bottom valve. The original seemed much too heavy and until I added my anti gravity devices I had to weight the bottom board to get it to drop rapidly enough. I think lighter valves would improve performance.
The thing is too heavy and bulky for me to handle comfortably alone but the block and tackle make it easily manageable.
(https://preview.ibb.co/dDEPBc/629_F70_BF_E130_4329_8_F6_E_8965_A6_F7_D633.jpg) (http://ibb.co/fmqxWc)
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While I had the bellows apart I decided to rework the valves. The old valves were almost 7/8” thick and seemed very heavy. I made a new bottom valve out of clear pine planed to just shy of 3/8” with 3 maple cleats glued on. I glued and tacked elkhide on the face for a cushion / seal. I planed the surface of the bellows bottom true so the valve would seat better.
Instead of a leather hinge as the originals had I opted for captive pins to allow the valves to ‘float’.
I decided to keep the upper valve but planed it down a good bit and added the elkhide and new pin arrangement. Hopefully this improves performance.
(https://preview.ibb.co/bY8iP7/87804_C3_D_5_DDD_4_A43_94_AF_0_CA67_A7_CB285.jpg) (http://ibb.co/gKcMBn)
(https://preview.ibb.co/fMSorn/F2_D6897_E_DCB4_490_E_805_F_0_F78_C682_B724.jpg) (http://ibb.co/eg8Hj7)
(https://preview.ibb.co/ebpq47/20_B8_FFC5_63_A5_4_E81_BB2_A_FB3_FB3_D4370_F.jpg) (http://ibb.co/dDfxj7)
(https://preview.ibb.co/d0KCHS/66_EF5_E61_CED1_4499_8556_9468527_FBC90.jpg) (http://ibb.co/maZ1Bn)
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David, looks like it’s coming right along. Maybe that leaking leather seam was a blessing...giving you the opportunity to go ahead and rework those valves as well. You’ll be back in business soon!
Greg
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New leather, hope to be running by the weekend!
(https://preview.ibb.co/kvkirn/4_E7_A0366_9270_450_D_9_FBA_6_FF601_B3_A09_B.jpg) (http://ibb.co/cKVuxS)
(https://preview.ibb.co/dLSJP7/DE76_CB94_E2_FD_414_F_B288_BF3_D01544874.jpg) (http://ibb.co/jcpnHS)
(https://preview.ibb.co/bTZMcS/1_BE9697_F_4_BE3_4309_8_BEB_5_B135_AFA614_D.jpg) (http://ibb.co/eJKXj7)
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It sure is tiring when you put in your best effort and something unforeseen upsets the apple cart. Still after you have finished these bellows, they will last another 200 years! I do admire your determination.
Cheers
Gordon
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Well I think I’m finally done with the bellows. All new leather and they seem to be working fine. I think she is getting used to me. I can blow it up and stop and get a good 15 - 20 seconds of residual blast.
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at fort Vancouver we had an overhead bellows similar to yours, beautiful work by the way. The bellows exploded when coal fumes were pulled back into the bellows. We had to put in a gravity check vale in to prevent this from happening again. thanks for sharing
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I made a check valve in air pipe but not sure I am satisfied with it. It seems to have reduced my capacity some.
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Still tweaking my bellows. They were working pretty good but I knew I had a problem with the valve in the center board leaking through some so I pulled just enough nails to get the leather loose on top corner and get access. We had made a valve face out of heavy aluminum sheet but it had warped and was allowing air to leak through. The middle board has a slight dip where gravity has taken it’s toll over 150 years or so.
Here is my solution; I welded up a frame out of 1/2” square stock and trued the face up on a belt sander. I welded 2 ears on to screw it down with and caulked it and srewed it down. I made a new valve board and covered it with leather with a piece of heavy elk hide for hinge. ( I tested it on the bench with fielder’s gauge to make sure it would sealbefore installing.)
Works much better now, but will still draw back just a little if I let the bottom paddle fall with no pressure on top one. I am convinced there is a small amount of leakage between chambers in the middle board or snout. I will keep my check valve for insurance.
(https://preview.ibb.co/gRAhbp/09_B7_D256_666_F_4433_9782_ED1_A752965_A8.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ftZ8Gp)
(https://preview.ibb.co/iOfR2U/B25_EA005_F463_4_BA4_8_CA5_046_FB7_BFCD36.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dzbzNU)
(https://preview.ibb.co/csEVU9/F3383583_DA56_4876_AD0_D_95845_F5_B7_B1_E.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nQxTGp)
(https://preview.ibb.co/gdPx99/6876_BF82_2_E6_C_4_FB5_961_B_935_A61_D76_C4_C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gHzm2U)
Also modified my handle for more user comfort.
[url=https://ibb.co/fvrzNU](https://preview.ibb.co/dVyPp9/8_B35_CD16_6_F39_4_DD9_9900_AB64_F7_FA41_DA.jpg) (https://[/url)
Next I decided to do efficiency test. I mixed up some soapy water in my garden sprayer and doused everything. I still have a little work to do to eliminate some air leaks.
To those who will say why not use just use a blower, I suppose my answer is for the same reason I hunt with a flintlock instead of a semi-auto. (http://https[/url)
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Nice! Good detective work, and well thought out solutions. Ain’t troubleshooting fun? Before long you’ll have those pesky leaks sealed up, and that old bellows huffing and puffing in earnest!
Greg
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Been following and watching your work on those bellows, and really admire how you tried to keep faithful to the 18th/19th century techniques and practices.
I believe you have really worked your heart out to get the bellows working properly, and are still at it.
I agree with you about the flintlock vs semi-auto. My friends sometimes tease me about doing things the hard way. I tell them if they concentrate on their shooting technique instead of the latest/greatest hardware, they will only need the one shot.
It's been working for centuries, and I see no need for change, much as you with your traditional methods. The biggest point is it's more fun!
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I agree Craig, much more fun. Some of my relatives and their hunting partners show up with $$$ loads $$$ of gear to hunt. Dozens of stands, feeders, cameras and trail monitors scent blockers, scent drippers you name it. I wait till they go back out of town and slip down with my flinter and still hunt a day or two and most always put some venison by. More power to them but I like my way better.
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David, thank you so much for this article. A local museum I am connected with is getting ready to restore a bellows. This article will help a lot. I have built several small fireplace bellows in the past, and wondered if the seamed leather might not leak. I had the same problem with my first small one.
Hungry Horse
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Working on a better connection for air pipe to tuyre. It has a four bolt flange and in my haste to get running I just stuck the pipe in but it leaked badly. Today I forged a flange out of 1” x 1” angle iron so I could bolt the connection.
Beginning to shape.
(https://preview.ibb.co/eVm699/49_D0_B824_7314_4_F7_E_BD70_0029_F1_F26611.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gvehhU)
the (https://poetandpoem.com/analysis-of-the-rose-that-grew-from-concrete-by-tupac-shakur)
(https://preview.ibb.co/gF61bp/8_D7_BE7_B4_E401_4239_8558_C4087_F584_F4_C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iBqSGp)
Coming around
(https://preview.ibb.co/hH8Ewp/B704_B197_BDA8_4986_8485_40_B489135_E02.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kFbOp9)
Almost there
(https://preview.ibb.co/b5mdNU/F3_D83633_AE15_4_D43_ACFC_B77_B0_A0_F5_AED.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bCUb99)
(https://preview.ibb.co/iWkuwp/93_B558_CB_5131_47_E5_B45_C_42_C2_BD2_B648_F.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dN6Op9)
(https://preview.ibb.co/cOgZwp/9019_B256_F869_4004_8548_33686_D3_B4026.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b5Xw99)
Forging complete, shown with pattern in one shot.
I have made prettier forge welds but looks like it will hold. Once it is installed under forge no one will see it but the spiders. (https://aluminumsulfate.net/aluminum-oxide[/url)
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I reckon that to be a pretty neat job ! crosspein to work the flange. I have just yesterday concreted the floor of my forges front stoop, now just have to wait for concrete to go off before I can go back into the forge. It has been a long journey. I imagine that the flap valve should be working a treat now. Sure has been a fair bit of messing about to get this air system going. Hopefully this should be it !!
Cheers
Gordon
(https://preview.ibb.co/b5jBB9/P1030057.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eY4BB9)
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That looks good. Nice looking repurposed posts. How is your shop laid out?
I haven’t gotten a chance to try out forge since putting everything back together. Just finished working a blacksmith demo at a big local festival last week with a good friend and catching up on my job this week. We are on our way this weekend to the mountains to take my grandson on his first steam train ride. Geared steam logging engines, good stuff.
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I can pretty well swivel from the forge to the anvil and the quench barrel. The post vice is a couple of steps away, you have to step past the anvil to it. It is a small shop, coke bunker is agin the wall to the right of the door if you are looking at it from the outside. There is a smaller coke bin next to the bellows. Here are a couple of photos. The floor under both the forge and anvil is cracker dust, the rest of he floor is reclaimed jarrah hardwood baulks about 6 inches thick. This type of shop is pretty typical of what you might find on a small farm, good enough to fix chains, sharpen crowbars picks, weld , make shoes and shoe horses and other reasonably small jobs.
(https://preview.ibb.co/h2scKU/P1030065.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iwsNm9)
(https://preview.ibb.co/cW2cKU/P1030066.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kyYTR9)
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David, I was wondering if you used a metal stretcher/shrinker to round out the angle iron. I have one from doing airplane work, and am no longer needing it. Nice tool, in very good condition. Let me know if you are interested. I only used it on aluminum, so I'm unsure how great it would be for steel.
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Craig I am not sure I know what you are referring to. I only used a hammer on the flange with cross pein to spread flange.
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Don't know why I missed your last post.
A metal stretcher or shrinker uses flat plates with teeth on them to kind of "stretch" the metal, thus making the circumference longer, and creating a flanged circle. I think you could check the online catalog for Aircraft Spruce & Specialty.
I was at an auction this past Saturday at an Amish farm. One of the items was a LARGE metal stretcher. The owner said he used it to work on steel up to 1/4" thick, and the horizontal part of the flange about 2. to 3" wide. Would make some pretty large flanged pieces fairly quickly, no forge needed.
Mine is much smaller, and I mostly used it to make aluminum flanges from .062 stock. The jaws on mine are also dual purpose, being able to shrink as well as stretch. The guy's large one weighed about 150 lb., mine weighs about 1/100 of that!
Either way, bet you got that bellows all sorted, and blowing good air. Envious, but to old to be forging stuff!
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David, after quite a few years of looking, found the remains of a Buffalo mod 611 post drill with an automatic feed still intact, and a few other bits with it as well. It did cost a bit of money but it completed the drill, I also swapped the threaded steel bush the hand wheel is fitted to, as the original ones' shoulder was just about gone, also the pivot bolt for the main pinion gear. The auto feed works a treat. I do have an electric post drill in the main workshop, so I don't have to be serious with this one, but still nice to use on occasion. I also made a simple rustic herb knife out of a small file, hardened it in canola oil. I have a farrier/roping reining mate who is a second generation blacksmith, he gives me a tune up from time to time as I am largely self taught. Drill photo is before I went on and rebushed the handwheel.
(https://i.ibb.co/brcL1qv/P1030106.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rZDMkTp)
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(https://i.ibb.co/S6YZBBH/P1030105.jpg) (https://ibb.co/j80jDDq)
(https://i.ibb.co/N12zqB7/P1030101.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bH5nV97)
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Gordon, that looks like a good stout drill. I really like mine and find I use it a good deal. I hot punch a lot, but some projects are better to drill. I got my post drill very cheap but it was in poor condition and siezed. It took a lot of penetrating oil, pounding and a little heat. I really need to bush or babbit the arbor bearings, they are a little loose, but it works OK for what I use it for. I have a smaller one in better shape, but the flywheel is missing.
I have really been enjoying my shop and the bellows seem to be working quit well now. I do like the sound of them, something satisfying about it.
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Very Very interesting post ,i like your shop would love to see it.