AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Black Powder Shooting => Topic started by: rich pierce on April 01, 2019, 03:06:41 AM
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I had some around for the chain saw. It’s green but seems to work great in the damp Midwest. I know it’s probably better to buy something more specific. I like the handiness of the little containers too.
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Save the synthetic for chainsaws ,Ballistol for guns if that"s the application (wood friendly)
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Tried Ballistol to prevent bore rust. Didn’t work for me as well as I’d heard or hoped in my basement.
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I'm using synthetic 5W-20 now. Beats the heck out of ballistol if keeping rust free is your goal.
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I wouldn't say Ballistol doesn't work.
http://www.ctmuzzleloaders.com/ctml_experiments/corrosion/corrosion2.html
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I wouldn't say Ballistol doesn't work.
http://www.ctmuzzleloaders.com/ctml_experiments/corrosion/corrosion2.html
I can only report my experience. I didn’t say it doesn’t work for anybody else. Rust stained patches are not my hoped-for result after wiping with an oil or rust preventive and that’s what I got using Ballistol. Might have something to do with wrought iron original barrels for all I know.
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I'm using synthetic for pretty much everything now too - flintlock to black rifles. Amsoil or Mobil 1, it works, it doesn't seem to deteriorate, it seems to just keep on lubricating pretty much forever (even when gunked up with DI blowback) and nothing rusts (and I am SUPER lazy when it comes to cleaning). The only other stuff that seems to work just about as well is CLP, which I also use a lot if something much thinner than synthetic oil is desired.
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I wouldn't say Ballistol doesn't work.
http://www.ctmuzzleloaders.com/ctml_experiments/corrosion/corrosion2.html
I can only report my experience. I didn’t say it doesn’t work for anybody else. Rust stained patches are not my hoped-for result after wiping with an oil or rust preventive and that’s what I got using Ballistol. Might have something to do with wrought iron original barrels for all I know.
Ditto. I used ballistol for a few years but was unimpressed with the orange patches I pulled when I dried the barrel out before a shooting session. I don't get that anymore now.
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"I'm using synthetic for pretty much everything now too - flintlock to black rifles. Amsoil or Mobil 1".
Interesting I just found a case of Mobil 1 in the barn, it is a least 23 years old. Will give it a try.
I have a friend who mixes Mobil 1 and WD-40 in equal parts as a patch lube.
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Are you guys getting the rust on the outside of the barrel or the bore?
One thing I have noticed about using Ballistol in the bore. Even when you think the bore is clean. If you use Ballistol in the bore to prevent rust it keeps on working as a cleaner. It's not just a mineral oil but has acid too. So, after a while when you check the bore you put out more fouling and it does have a rust look to it.
I'm cleaning out a bore for a new GPR. I get clean patches when using a carb cleaner. If I then follow up with Ballistol I pull up more factory oil. It has a rusty look to it.
The Germans came up with Ballistol and used it on the military guns in WW1 and WW2. I can't believe they would use it if it caused rust.
Ballistol also does well in shootouts. I have to wonder if what we're seeing coming from the bore is really rust?
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I have noticed the same rust color but I do not think its rust. It seems to me that someone her on ALR explained why it was but I can not remember, getting too much knowledge in my old brain, some of it is beginning to leak out :'(.
I notice the same thing using original Lehigh Valley lube.
Dennis
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I've used Mobil 1 for more than 20 years and have never looked back. Inside and out, it works and doesn't deteriorate over time.
Mark
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Is this a Ballistol vs 2 stroke synthetic oil post?
Seriously? Neither is the answer.
After thoroughly cleaning the barrel and letting it dry. Run a patch with light gun or or WD-40 down the barrel. No other stuff needed. People way overthink this simple sport.
Oh by the way this is just my humble opinion.
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Taylor and big Ron here had similar experiences with using straight Ballistol inside and out.
Both guys had rust, inside and out come the next morning. Granted it was fairly humid in both instances.
Considering Ballistol will mix with water, ie: is water soluble, how can it prevent rust?
Dphar alluded to this FACT in a similar discussion here - same subject, years ago.
I would prefer to use an oil that will not mix with water, in fact repels it. Ballistol does not nor will not repel water, imho.
Yes I know guys use it - I will not. I use water displacing or repelling oils. I have never rusted a barrel. Both Taylor and
Ron had never either, until they tried Ballistol.
I saw what came out of Ron's barrel and it certainly appeared to be rust to me, no different than many ML's that come into Taylor's shop - pitted bores and rust.
After drying my bore and outside of the barrel after cleaning, I flush the bore with WD40 then patch that, blasting WD40 out the vent or nipple seat (barrels off the gun), then wipe
down the outside and reassemble. I have never rusted the outside nor the inside. I do the same with the locks- hose them off with WD40 after drying- shake of blow off the excess and reinstall.
The moly grease I put in the internals stays for almost a year, likely 20 cleanings, sometimes more, then gets replaced.
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After a shooting session I clean and swab the bore dry. Then run a CLP wetted patch down the bore and store the rifle in the barrel down position.
Before I leave the house to shoot again I run a patch wetted with 91% isopropyl alcohol down the barrel to remove the CLP residue.
It's a simple operation, and thus far has been effective.
I can't comment on Ballistol as I have never used it. It just isn't widely available here like CLP is.
In my own experience the best rust preventative is regular shooting and cleaning of the firearm. It prevents rust from forming on the gun... And the shooter's skills.
Mike
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I use RIG right after cleaning and long term storage and never get rust. I do have to "dump" my first shot though in some of my rifles.
Roger B
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In 1985, for example, a bottle of Ballistol was found in an attic where it had been left for over 60 years. The oil had not hardened and a chemical analysis revealed that it still had the same degree of purity as freshly produced Ballistol.
Furthermore, after WW2, the Klever Company (makers of Ballistol) conducted a long-term test. Several rifles and shotguns were treated with Ballistol, wrapped in wax-impregnated paper, and stored in a trunk. After 25 years, the trunk was opened and the firearms inspected. All weapons had remained completely rust-free on both the inside and outside, and no resinification of Ballistol had occurred. After pulling a dry cotton patch through the barrels, several rounds were fired from the weapons without malfunction.
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Is this a Ballistol vs 2 stroke synthetic oil post?
Seriously? Neither is the answer.
After thoroughly cleaning the barrel and letting it dry. Run a patch with light gun or or WD-40 down the barrel. No other stuff needed. People way overthink this simple sport.
Oh by the way this is just my humble opinion.
I use WD40 through my barrels to makes sure all water moisture is gone but never have trusted it for long term storage since I had some fine rust on a gun that I wiped down with a cotton cloth with WD40 sprayed on it.
Dennis
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In 1985, for example, a bottle of Ballistol was found in an attic where it had been left for over 60 years. The oil had not hardened and a chemical analysis revealed that it still had the same degree of purity as freshly produced Ballistol.
Furthermore, after WW2, the Klever Company (makers of Ballistol) conducted a long-term test. Several rifles and shotguns were treated with Ballistol, wrapped in wax-impregnated paper, and stored in a trunk. After 25 years, the trunk was opened and the firearms inspected. All weapons had remained completely rust-free on both the inside and outside, and no resinification of Ballistol had occurred. After pulling a dry cotton patch through the barrels, several rounds were fired from the weapons without malfunction.
I'm not going to dispute what you're saying BUT..... All of my C&B revolvers were liberally lubed inside and out with Ballistol, cylinder pin, internals, bore and outside surfaces. I haven't shot them in several years. A short while ago I came across them and they barely function. No rust, but the cylinders will barely rotate and the sears are hesitant to engage. The Ballistol is all gummed up. I'll have to strip them and clean them before they are functional again.
I used to treat them with Ballistol when actively cowboy shooting the same way I have them stored now. I was shooting three weekends a month so they didn't sit long between using. They functioned fine then. The only draw back for me when I was shooting them was they got slimy and hard to hand onto in the rain.
Why my Ballistol gummed up my revolvers I don't know.
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I used to shoot CAS too. Ballistol is pretty popular with that crowd as you know. I don't know why it gummed up on you? It never has for me but I don't have long spells of not shooting. At least you didn't get rust.
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.The following is the response from Patric Polumbo of Ballistol USA.
Ballistol is not water soluble, Ballistol emulsifies with water. This means that Ballistol maintains its properties in the presence of water; water soluble would change the properties of the product. Ballistol will continue to prevent rust in the presence of water at only 5% Ballistol / water. When Ballistol is emulsified with water, and the moisture evaporates, Ballistol is left on the surface. It’s a simple test, stick a nail in a cup of water, stick another nail in a cup of 5% Ballistol / water. The nail in 5% Ballistol will not rust.
If you are seeing rust after cleaning with Ballistol, the firearm was not properly cleaned. Ballistol needs to be emulsified with water 25% Ballistol / 75% water to properly neutralize and flush the black powder residue. Once the firearm has been thoroughly flushed, go back over the entire firearm with straight Ballistol.
I have seen Ballistol turn every color of the rainbow after sitting for extended periods of time. The product continues to clean even when left in the barrel or on the surface to protect. After sitting in a barrel that shoots modern ammo, my patches generally are green or green/blue. In my black powder firearms, they are almost always brown, reddish/brown. I have never seen rust in a barrel that was coated with Ballistol. No matter how well we think we clean our firearms, Ballistol always seems to find some junk left behind. What appears to be rust is usually residue left in the barrel that the Ballistol found and neutralized. There is even a good chance the Ballistol is removing thin layers of old oxidation from the firearm not being properly cleaned prior to the use of Ballistol.
We have had no reported cases of Ballistol causing firearms to rust.
Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Best regards,
Patrick Palumbo
Washington Trading Co, Inc
BALLISTOL USA
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What is special about Synthetic two-cycle oil vs. any other motor oil for the same application(s) in BP shooting..??
Trying to learn here...I have an unopened gallon of synthetic 5/30 motor oil that I no longer have any targeted use for. Got rid of the vehicle I bought it for, and it just takes up space in the garage now.
Thanks.
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I’m no petrol chemist. I heard some folks were using Mobil One. Noticed my chain saw 2 cycle oil is synthetic. Tried it and liked it. I’m guessing that it has stabilizers and rust inhibitors and such. Long live whatever works for each and every one of us!
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I use Mobil One for the lock and trigger but that's all. I use it in my Jeep and filled a pen oiler for anything that needs oil. It doesn't harden up in cold weather.
I have better stuff for rust protection.
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Since Ballistol has been brought up here's my experience with it. After reading a few different forums I got some to try. It didn't seem to make a difference in my rifle as far as shooting. I clean a bit the range and then a though cleaning at home with plenty of water as I have for many years. Soon I found that disconcerting red on my patches. No amount of oiling or scrubbing would get it to stop. Having quit using it for over a year I still get color but reading this tread I thought I'd give it a chance to lift the mystery deposits out of the bore. Several wiping and oiling with Ballistol over two days these are my last two tight patches. Can I expect the color to decrease?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7806/40558530853_b91037ac1c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24N25bH)IMG_0411 (https://flic.kr/p/24N25bH) by Oliver Sudden (https://www.flickr.com/photos/155475279@N02/), on Flickr
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I also go off the reservation regarding gun oil.
I mostly use a dollop of anhydrous lanolin melted into a few ounces of ATF. It is an excellent lube, from the lanolin. It is also a good penetrate, from the ATF. Recently did the same deal with Marvelous Mystery Oil. IT smells like mint, works the same. For serious rust prevention, long term storage, I use Fluid Film.
I never use Balistol because the odor is offensive to me. I think most any oil will work reasonably well.
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JPK I also tried ballistol for rust prevention in the bore.Had the same result patches would come out with a rusty look and took forever to come out clean.Went back to rem oil in the bore for long term storage no more rusty patches.Still use ballistol mixed with water for cleaning the bore after a shoot but thats it.
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Has anyone tried Frog Lube? :o
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Since Ballistol has been brought up here's my experience with it. After reading a few different forums I got some to try. It didn't seem to make a difference in my rifle as far as shooting. I clean a bit the range and then a though cleaning at home with plenty of water as I have for many years. Soon I found that disconcerting red on my patches. No amount of oiling or scrubbing would get it to stop. Having quit using it for over a year I still get color but reading this tread I thought I'd give it a chance to lift the mystery deposits out of the bore. Several wiping and oiling with Ballistol over two days these are my last two tight patches. Can I expect the color to decrease?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7806/40558530853_b91037ac1c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24N25bH)IMG_0411 (https://flic.kr/p/24N25bH) by Oliver Sudden (https://www.flickr.com/photos/155475279@N02/), on Flickr
I doubt it but I DO NOT think its rust, not sure what causes it but if I had that much rust in my barrel I believe I would see evidence in the bore and I don't. Also see it using original Lehigh Valley lube and I don't believe its rust either.
Dennis
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This is an interesting topic and I wonder if different barrels made from different kinds of steel will show different end results. Just thought of some thing else, would the different types of climate have that much different effect on the rust preventing properties of the discussed products? Maybe I wonder too much. Might be the medication! :)
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The best thing for long term rust prevention I have found is BreakFree chain, and cable foam.
Hungry Horse
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I use fluid film. It is a lanolin based product that was developed for ships and oil platforms in salt water. I won't harm finishes and makes your hands soft. They also use it to rustproof cars and I spray it on my mower decks and such. Its available by the gallon.
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Do it the old times way=Sperm whale oil.
WD-40 I have found causes the bore to get hard spots and acts like carbon build up, while shooting.
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Dennis.........One wet patch of carb cleaner and it's gone. Could carb cleaner do that if it was rust?
It seems if Ballistol is used those rusty looking patches won't go away. I have a hard time believing it's rust. It's explained in the post stude283 made but i'm not sure i'm buying it. My gun is brand new and unshot. It has no fouling in it but I still get the rusty looking patches.
I have no idea what the answer it but I think i'll stop using Ballistol. Even if the rusty looking patches were harmless. I can't stand looking at them.
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WD40 is great for water displacement (hence the "wd") but I have never found it to be a good rust preventative long-term in the humid east, and also, it has an annoying habit of (long term) evaporating and leaving an almost varnish like residue behind.
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Following up on my red patches. I pored copious amounts of boiling water down the bore to the point that it couldn't be held by hand. Then dried it and run a tight patch down before oiling it with machine oil. If this red isn't rust it acts like it! The rust bluing that I've done leads me to think so. After a few more patches with light oil I now do not get color. The only thing different about this barrel and all my others is this one I had used Ballistol in. I checked both my others and the wife's rifle this morning and all are fine. Hers hasn't been shoot in a couple of years and gives no color other then oil. I'm not going to testify in court about the stuff but I won't be using it anymore.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7840/46805929864_0a6b491e32_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ej5CfL)IMG_0412 (https://flic.kr/p/2ej5CfL) by Oliver Sudden (https://www.flickr.com/photos/155475279@N02/), on Flickr
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JPK,
If you used "boiling " water you probably did get flash rust, it's very common. Use room temp water and a few drops of dish washing soap.
Mark
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Mark, did you notice that the last patch is black unlike the red patches before the boiling water?
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I don't think so. My barrel has seen no water and no shooting. I get red patches.
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Public Service Announcement
Please distribute freely
I will accept all containers of Ballistol including new, unopened and/or partially used condition FREE OF CHARGE
I will waive all receiving and disposal fees for Ballistol products exclusively
Now is your chance to rid yourself of worry and those disgusting looking cleaning patches (and that unpleasant smell — let’s face it, Hoppe’s it ain’t )
ACT NOW!
PM the receiver (that’s me) for shipping address
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Sender (that’s you) is responsible for all actual shipping and handling costs.
Legal boilerplate: this offermayberrscindedatanytime does ballistolworkonboilerplate? whycanttheymakeitsmelllikehoppes? Othersmileagemayvary
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I've been using Balistoll for over 15 years. I do not use it as a rust preventative. It is part of my cleaning solution. 30% . Ballistol diluted 1 to 10, 70% black solve. The Ballistols PH counters that of Black powder residue.
I have used a variety of oils for rust prevention. I have been using Rigg on guns that I don't use often.
I plan on trying Fluid Film. Just read up on it on their website. Looks like a good product.
Thanks for the heads up Turtle.
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I use this to prevent rust in and out of the barrel. Good patch lube too.
(https://i.servimg.com/u/f50/18/40/56/85/100_3033.jpg)
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I had some around for the chain saw. It’s green but seems to work great in the damp Midwest. I know it’s probably better to buy something more specific. I like the handiness of the little containers too.
Really anything oil is good enough unless you're talking very long term storage. 2cycle oil ought to be reasonable viscosity (some motor oils are a bit too thick). I suspect we would be surprised to find ought how many of the gun specific formulas are just repackaged automotive products. I'm thinking the newer synthetic low viscosity ATFs might be ideal for firearms care. Growing up, we maintained firearms with everything from 3n1 to Castrol GTX 20-50 :).
Not surprised the cult of ballistol made an appearance--rarely does such an unremarkable product inspire religious zeal!
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I don’t know why the two stroke oil wouldn’t work. I use Shell Rotella Diesel engine oil for the first hot oiling after I boil a browned barre for a dark color. It seems to stop after rust better than any other oil I’ve used. BJH
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What?
No one has mentioned Ed's Red?
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I'll camp with those who see Ballistol as a cleaning agent and not a rust inhibitor. WD40 "Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor" is the best I have found to prevent rust. It's expensive. A 6.5 oz can goes for about $20 at the local hardward store. I use it on the barrel surfaces and in the bore. Firearms are kept displayed in a basement room and never see any signs of rust. WD probably has 6 or 7 different products.
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What?
No one has mentioned Ed's Red?
Passe'
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Ed's Red is a smokeless powder solvent. The red comes from ATF.
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A rust preventative discussion is like one on patch lube-lost of different opinions. I think the choice gets narrowed down when a gun is used in extreme conditions. Rustproof that works fine when a gun is well cleaned at home and stored inside fails miserably when cleaning in the field and camping sometimes for days especially when sleeping on the ground with your gun. Some friends who were meticulous gun maintainers when on their first trek, woke up in horror the next morning to a rusty gun inside and out, and some hadn't even shot them yet. The best I have found for extreme conditions is--clean with Lehigh valley(no water!) and coat liberally inside and out with Fluid Film. I still get a little rust sometimes, but not bad.
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Muskrat Mike....After thoroughly cleaning the barrel and letting it dry. Run a patch with light gun or or WD-40 down the barrel. No other stuff needed. People way overthink this simple sport.
Oh by the way this is just my humble opinion.
Yup.
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This is a barrel thoroughly cleaned and left with a Rem-Oil coated barrel for 6 months, no more Rem Oil for me. This remaining pitting is after a good scrubbing with JB bore paste.
Now I use water followed by alcohol, followed by WD40 and followed by a patch soaked in Barricade, no rust ever.
(https://i.ibb.co/nmR8C6J/Snapshot000000.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jfHZRbX)
img host (https://imgbb.com/)
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I tell people to at least run a patch through the barrel every so often to play it safe. better to clean several times imperfectly, than try to clean once perfectly for long term.
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Since Ballistol has been brought up here's my experience with it. After reading a few different forums I got some to try. It didn't seem to make a difference in my rifle as far as shooting. I clean a bit the range and then a though cleaning at home with plenty of water as I have for many years. Soon I found that disconcerting red on my patches. No amount of oiling or scrubbing would get it to stop. Having quit using it for over a year I still get color but reading this tread I thought I'd give it a chance to lift the mystery deposits out of the bore. Several wiping and oiling with Ballistol over two days these are my last two tight patches. Can I expect the color to decrease?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7806/40558530853_b91037ac1c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24N25bH)IMG_0411 (https://flic.kr/p/24N25bH) by Oliver Sudden (https://www.flickr.com/photos/155475279@N02/), on Flickr
I doubt it but I DO NOT think its rust, not sure what causes it but if I had that much rust in my barrel I believe I would see evidence in the bore and I don't. Also see it using original Lehigh Valley lube and I don't believe its rust either.
Dennis
Do you suppose there is something in the Ballistol residue that is oxidizing and changing color?
Way back before I knew any better I used Bore Butter on my caplock. I pulled the gun out after an extended hiatus and ran a patch down the bore... To my horror I pulled back a patch streaked with a ruddy light brownish orange stain. I was devastated and just knew the gun was ruined... But it wasn't rust. The barrel was fine.
Only thing I can figure (and this is just my own opinion) there is something in BB (perhaps the yellow dye) that darkens with age and oxidation. I know that TC used to sell the precut ticking patches treated with BB and they would darken to a brownish orange color after the package sat on a shelf for a while.
Just a thought.
Mike
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I have seen suggested right here at ALR, that perhaps a water soluable oil is not the best to prevent rust, as it will absorb moisture from the air.
Both Ron and Taylor were in an environment of high humidity (raining for days) when their guns actually rusted after using Ballistol as an after cleaning
and drying their guns, oil.
Taylor was living him his lodge and in hunting camp. He thought at that time, that perhaps the ballistol he got from a friend, might have been contaminated
and thus was not a 'fair' test of the product.
Ron, on the other hand, used a brand new previously unopened can of Ballistol - yet rusted his bore and barrel - overnight while camping out of doors.
Seems to me, he left the cleaned and oiled rifle in the bed of his pickup, inside the canopy.
As to the LHV - I used it for patch lube, never for storing- never had any orange. Taylor loaded a charge and lubed a patch with LHV, left it outside for a week. Upon
pulling the load and patched ball the patch, was slightly damp, the powder was still dry and the patch was not orange, nor was there orange on a through patch afterwards.
From that test, he thought LHV might do as a hunting lube, but for no longer than perhaps a week.
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I still don't think it's rust.
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For whatever it’s worth. What ever happened to basics. I like reading the mixed views, but I personally have kept to traditional cleaning methods. Water soaked tow, dry tow, and mink oil or some type of commercial bore butter. Our colonial counterparts didn’t have bore butter, but I would bet they had a favorite lube or rust prevention.
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For whatever it’s worth. What ever happened to basics. I like reading the mixed views, but I personally have kept to traditional cleaning methods. Water soaked tow, dry tow, and mink oil or some type of commercial bore butter. Our colonial counterparts didn’t have bore butter, but I would bet they had a favorite lube or rust prevention.
They had to get their bores freshed out every few years - due to what? wear?- I do not believe that was the cause. Shooting, then reloading and leaving it loaded and dirty would have
caused grief/rust/pitting and the need for 'freshing'.
Lip balm with camphor oil, (bore butter) is a new invention - if edible, they'd likely have eaten it or used it as a salve.
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They were pretty hard on their guns back in the day. I can't imagine using my gun for a club but that was common back then.
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Methinks that folks who live in low humidity might be able to get by with ballistol or WD-40 as rust preventatives. The other thing that amazes me is that some people clean with boiling water and report no claims of flash rust. No idea why that is. Either way, I know that I have to use cool or tepid water to clean and a good non-water-soluble oil for rust preventative or I get rust.
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My Idea in my cleaning method is that if you put no water which encourages rust into the barrel ect, you don't have to work to dry it out. Drying a gun and bore in the field after putting water on it is difficult. Some Lehigh valley residue only helps inhibit corrosion.
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My Idea in my cleaning method is that if you put no water which encourages rust into the barrel ect, you don't have to work to dry it out. Drying a gun and bore in the field after putting water on it is difficult. Some Lehigh valley residue only helps inhibit corrosion.
Unfortunately the residue that causes rust is water soluble. Oil will not remove it fully. The residues are hydroscopic and draw water from the air and cause rusting even if slathered in oil.
I have been pouring 95% rubbing alcohol down the bore to dilute the water residue, pour it out, swab until dry, then oil with "fluid film" or ATF and lanolin. . No rust at all. But then again, I live in the west where the air is dry.
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I had some around for the chain saw. It’s green but seems to work great in the damp Midwest. I know it’s probably better to buy something more specific. I like the handiness of the little containers too.
Really anything oil is good enough unless you're talking very long term storage. 2cycle oil ought to be reasonable viscosity (some motor oils are a bit too thick). I suspect we would be surprised to find ought how many of the gun specific formulas are just repackaged automotive products. I'm thinking the newer synthetic low viscosity ATFs might be ideal for firearms care. Growing up, we maintained firearms with everything from 3n1 to Castrol GTX 20-50 :).
Not surprised the cult of ballistol made an appearance--rarely does such an unremarkable product inspire religious zeal!
Can't say I'm in any Ballistol Cult, but after 12 years of trying to clean 50 years of junk out of an old .22 rifle I bought cheap, one wet patch of the stuff and one bore brush pass removed lots of leading and black crud and now the barrel looks quite new. I tried everything on this barrel over the past decade, Hoppes, CLP (USGI kind), ATF, motor oil, Froglube, even dawn dish soap. Nothing helped it, it continued to look like a sewer pipe, so I bought some Ballistol a couple of weeks ago and it just worked.
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Could you get a clean white patch after using Ballistol?
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Could you get a clean white patch after using Ballistol?
I can't honestly recall getting a clean white patch with much of any kind of leaching oil. USGI CLP is one of those. A light gray patch is good, and after a day or two of sitting with oil in the bore, you will get more carbon out with the next patch though. By the time I was done cleaning that old .22 I was getting light gray. I'll rod it again in a day or so to see what I get after oil has been in it for a couple of days. This is my first time tying the Ballistol, but so far it has made short work of cleaning 3 of my modern rifles.
Back in my youth, when I had my P-53 Enfield, I would flush well with water, then oil it with CLP that had followed me home from my military service days. A few days later, I would rod the bore and get a grayish brown stain on the patch. I think it was leaching out the ball lube that had cooked into/onto the steel. I used to use one of those fiber optic extensions that go on a mag light and never saw anything that looked like rust in that rifle-musket bore.
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I used to think that too. I've used Ballistol for years. However, I used it on a new GPR I have that's never been shot. In used Ballistol to help get out the factory gunk they put in the bore. I first used carb cleaner to get most of it out. Then used Ballistol and kept getting a reddish brown patch. No matter how many patches I used I couldn't get a white patch. So, I ran carb cleaner again and then got a snow white patch. Out of curiosity, I ran another wet patch with Ballistol and got a red brown patch. I then ran dry patches and continued to get a red brown patch no matter how many patches I used.
I don't get it. It can't be rust. I finally gave up and ran carb cleaner and dry patches and they were snow white again. I called it good and then used my rust preventative in the bore. I check the bore eveery now and then and it's still snow white patches.
So, no way Ballistol was bringing up fouling in a gun that hasn't ever been shot.
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There's no telling what those Spaniards or Italians used for cutting fluid or steal treatment during the GPR's manufacture. Quite a good deal of the raw steel we get off the truck daily looks like it was cooked in used diesel oil.
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Yes, but when I use the carb cleaner the patches come out white. Wouldn't you think at that point I have the bore clean? It stays that way until using Ballistol.
I still don't think the red brown patches we get is rust but what is it?
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That is a good question. Like you, I don't think its rust. I'll keep playing around with this stuff on various steels I have access to, and see if I see anything wonky. Now I need to go shoot BP through something.
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I'd like to do that too but we got 8" of snow last night. I thought it was spring?
The curse of living in the mountains where elk live.
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Has anyone tried Frog Lube? :o
I would not recommend frog lube. Fell for the hype when it first came out. Followed the instructions heating metal up etc. for my AR rifles and 1911’s.
Took one of my pistols to the range after it had not been fired for a few months, pulled the trigger and the hammer came down slower than a snail. Got all gummed up. After I finally got it to fire a few times the lube liquified again. If my life depended on that first shot I would not be on this forum today.