Recent Posts

Pages: 1 ... 8 9 [10]
Black Powder Shooting / Re: hunting, effectiveness vs velocity
« Last post by Daryl on August 16, 2019, 06:57:50 PM »
Good post and picture, Dan.
This is a calf moose I shot about 8 years back. His front leg bones were 2" in diameter
and he was only 6 months old. Just over 200pounds dressed out in quarters.
Their bones get big - early on. Best eating moose I've ever had.

Black Powder Shooting / Re: Sidearms accuracy, smooth vs. rifled
« Last post by Daryl on August 16, 2019, 06:50:58 PM »
I read that the .54cal. US Martial pistols & English Dueling pistols were popular when 'running'  buffalo(from horseback).  A brace (2) of pistols, held in shoulder holsters (the horses shoulders) at the front of the saddle, were "good for 2 buffaloes".
After the civil war, .44 calibre revolvers were found to be even better.  A model 1860 or 1847Walker was "good for 6 buffaloes".
This information from Firearms of the American West.
Items for Sale/Wanted / Bowie with Red Diamond sheath
« Last post by Two Feathers on August 16, 2019, 06:08:32 PM »
Howdy folks, Two Feathers here again:
 About 2 years ago I made a Toothpick with a Red Heart sheath (some of you might remember it?) Anyway, so as not to upset the person who bought it by making another one just like it ( it was a one of a kind) I made a new one.  This time with a Red Diamond sheath, with a different blade design. This will exactly fit your wardrobe if you’re into the Wild West/Buffalo Bill era, or the era of the “Buffalo Hunter.” The price is $250.00 + $10.00 s&h. Don’t get the wrong idea of this knife. This IS NOT just a PC show-off piece for Period dress, this is a well-crafted, fully functional, Bowie style knife that will dress a Buffalo, Bear, Elk, Moose, or any other big game animal that you harvest!

 The knife is 14” oal, with a 9-1/2” blade by 1-3/4” wide. It’s sharp!! The blade/tang is made of .1875” (3/16”) 1080 high carbon Spring steel. It’s forge blued, (still has my forge marks on it). It has an iron oval cross guard, a 4-1/2” Elk antler handle with a cast Pewter butt cap and (2) 1/8” Iron pins holding it on. The antler handle has a slight curve to the Right (as viewed from the top) making this more of a Right handers knife, but it fits comfortably in either hand.

  The sheath measures 11” long by 3-1/2” wide. It’s made with 3 layers of 3-4 oz. Brown Calf hide and a layer of Red 3 oz. Suede Leather in between the front panel and “over the blade” panel. There’s a back panel of the same 3-4 oz. Calf hide with my Two Feathers signature burned into it. The front panel has 3 Diamonds of different sizes cut through it to reveal the Red Suede that’s sandwiched between the front and the “over the blade” panel. The front is set off by (4) 3/8” Nickel spots between the Diamonds. There is a belt loop on the rear that can accommodate a 2-3/8” belt. If you proffer NOT to use the belt loop, the whole thing can be tucked into you sash. The entire sheath is stitched with Artificial sinew in a traditional X pattern for that PC look.
 As always, thanks for looking. If you’re interested or have questions or comments, please PM me here or email me at
 I prefer PayPal, but will take money orders or personal checks. Personal checks will add approx. 2 weeks to the ordering process.
  I now ship to Canada. Any Canadian orders will be higher priced due to the USD CAD exchange rates. All prices here are in USD $
 I ship same day as funds are received or check clears, the exceptions are; Sundays, Federal holidays, and severe weather.
God bless:
Two Feathers
Proprietor at:
The Mountain Man Emporium

Black Powder Shooting / Re: How do you lighten a single trigger?
« Last post by Scota4570 on August 16, 2019, 06:05:51 PM »
It reduces the depth of engagement.  That shortens the sear travel.  That produces less creep.  It avoids compromising the tumbler.  It maintains the strength for the sear nose.  I am talking about a steep bevel, say 45*.  I would only do this if the tumbler notch was way too deep. 

That said it is not reducing the trigger pull in the best possible way.  The best way is to use appropriate angles, plenty of engagement, and a smooth finish.   
Items for Sale/Wanted / Re: Trigger guards and buttplate for sale
« Last post by rich pierce on August 16, 2019, 05:55:42 PM »
Shipped, Bob
Antique Gun Collecting / Re: Fake Hawken just sold for $12,000
« Last post by JBJ on August 16, 2019, 05:23:27 PM »
Perhaps those "all over the place" descriptions were quite intentional. Re-read the description about this particular rifle: Ky halfstock and then St. Louis; all of the extraneous information about S. Hawken and then Jacob and the chlolera outbreak; and, finally the bit about "owners were" etc., etc., etc. All of that extra blather strikes me as a smoke screen. Not a direct claim about this particular rifle but perhaps by inference?
Black Powder Shooting / Re: Sidearms accuracy, smooth vs. rifled
« Last post by WadePatton on August 16, 2019, 04:47:44 PM »
Here is something to consider before dismissing the effectiveness of rifling over a smoothbore in a pistol  used at short range .  Someone came up with the idea of scratch rifling in dueling pistols because it offers an advantage. I've tried it and it works .

It is my hope that the pit vipers and other vermin are not supplied with pistols!

I get that.  But also that -any- sort of mental advantage might help those who entered into the contest of a duel. 

Also, the blunderbuss threads got me thinking on a hand cannon (because a blunderbuss in the belt wouldn't work on my sized frame).  The current plan is to build the pistol smooth and see exactly how accurate I can make it.  Then, if I need more accuracy and am willing to give up shot, then I can make a rifled one. If it proves no more accurate, I'll sell it and make something else.  Easy enough huh? (ambitious I am)  ;D
Gun Building / Re: Help! :( Bent Cock??
« Last post by Mike Lyons on August 16, 2019, 04:34:43 PM »
I think Rich asked a good question.  Have you ever taken apart a lock?  Do you have the special  tools?  If not, find someone who knows what they are doing or send it to Chambers. You want to be extremely confident in your lock or you’ll get frustrated when you have a misfire and it will drive you completely bonkers.
Gun Building / Re: Wood box suggestions?
« Last post by fahnenschmied on August 16, 2019, 04:26:19 PM »
I think it is passable - but in the end, the only person it really is going to bother will be you.  How much narrower did you want it to be?  I should think you could make some shims, up to 1/8th thick. and glue them to the dovetails in the stock.  The overhanging patchbox lid should cover them up.  No need to makes lines around for camouflage, etc - but certainly you could get it 1/4 narrower by this method.  And let me know when you decide to make a Mauser Geraet 06...
Black Powder Shooting / Re: hunting, effectiveness vs velocity
« Last post by Dphariss on August 16, 2019, 04:20:56 PM »
A pure lead round ball on deer will give about 30" of penetration at rifle velocities and no heavy bones are struck. On elk and larger game striking a large bone with a 54 cal will reduce penetration but should will still reach the vitals. Though lage moose have HUGE bones and I would shoot my 16 bore and a hard ball if hunting AK/Yukon variety. I hunt both forest and plains and use the same charge for everything. Calibers? I think 54 is minimum for animals like elk. Mostly due to bone thing since its possible to encounter the humerus when doing a chest shot. 50 cal is a great killer on Mule and WT deer even at 140-150 yards with lung shots. But they seldom drop at the shot no matter what is used unless the electrical system is disrupted.
Elk can pack off a lot of lead but Sir William Drummond Stewart thought they were easier the stop with his 20 bore than Mule Deer? I have had both Mule and WT run as much as 200 yards when perfectly hit with a 50-54 RB even when the range was under 50 yards. I destroyed the heart of a MD doe at <50 with a .662 ball +- 1600 fps at the muzzle and she still ran 55 long steps. It was a "raking shot" from the front and it was a "heavy hit" that turned the top 2/3 of the heart to jello. Hardened balls will greatly increase penetration and a 50-69 caliber hole is  still big enough. I like pass through on lung shots. It improves the blood trail. Too much penetration is better than not enough. AND reducing the velocity may not greatly reduce the penetration. a 50 caliber RB at 800 fps will shoot through a deer or antelope chest so don't expect a light load to keep the ball in a deer on broadside shots. This based on a 6" 50 cal pistol I used to have. However, striking the humerus WILL reduce penetration, in this case a 54 cal pistol with a heavy charge at about 30 yards shattered that upper leg bone, took the arteries over the heart and lodged under the far side hide. Deer made about 30 yards or so.
I have recovered few RBs from animals over the years, the vast majority pass through since I shoot for the heart/lungs. Even a shoulder shot that misses the big bone will likely pass through with a 54 rifle. This encompasses maybe 80 or more deer and an elk or two shot with RBs. I quit counting at 70 or so and have hunted with other arms as well. Can't hunt with open sights till the VA approves changing the lens in my right eye. Might be done for hunting season.
The photo is of the front leg and shoulder of a Bull Moose shot in central AK by a friend. 54 RB is not compatible with that leg bone.

Pages: 1 ... 8 9 [10]