COUNTERSINK FOR METAL

[hortonstn]

can anyone tell me where to get a countersink that will cut metal like at the breech plug tail
thanks
paul

[dave gross]

You can find reasonably priced countersinks at any good hardware store/tool dealer.  Most multi flute countersinks chatter when cutting...at least mine did...until I found single flute countersinks which cut very smoothly.
Dave Gross
Way Down East in Maine

[coutios]

  Make sure the c'sink you get is for metal. Some of those hardware offerings just don't hold up. Google up MSC.. They carry a nice selection....

PS.. I beleive 82 degree is the most commonn screw out there..

Regards
Dave

[Stophel]

I've never been able to get the single flutes to work well at all.  I have two that I use.  One is five flute, the other is three flute.  If one starts to chatter, I switch to the other, and the chatter goes away.   

[Dave Dolliver]

The best ones I have found were from MSC and were PILOTED!  I got two, one for #10 screws and one for #8.
The pilots are removeable so you could get just one and switch pilots.  The pilot keepd the c'sink aligned with the hole location since if the hole is not exactly perpendicular to the suface the c'sink will often wander.  Don't know if MSC still has them.

Dave Dolliver

[Birdhunter]

Grizzly Industrial has  a set of 90 degree coutersinks that work well.

[California Kid]

Most commercial tang screws, wood screws.etc. are 82 degrees. If you are countersinking a tang screw in a drill press run it slow.

[Hawken62_flint]

I got a pack of three (don't remember the sizes) from Harbor Frieght.  I can't vouch for them as I haven't used them yet.  Going to try them soon as my pistol project is getting near to needing some drilling.

[A.Merrill]

    Got mine at ACE hardware, gets the job done.    AL

[ERH]

mine are a three pack from harbor freight they work fine. I think i would buy from msc if i was going to use them a lot  but u can buy a three set from HF for less then the shipping cost from msc.

[bdixon]

Weldon is the best I have found, smooth, no chatter.

[valongrifles]

The angles for countersink are different for WOOD versus METAL. I can't remember which is which, but I do know that if you use a wood sink for a metal screw it is not gonna "set" quite right when drawn up and vise/versa (?) for metal for wood screws. But, the wood will usually deform slightly to allow the angle difference.

[Dennis Glazener]

Try here http://www.wlfuller.com/html/countersinks.html
Dennis

[California Kid]

VA never heard such a thing. wood screws are generally 82' , as are the tang bolts sold by suppliers. Use what ever the angle is on the head of the screw.

[Kelhammer]

I prefer single fluted counter sinks over multi fluted ones.  To me they cut smoother, and faster as well.  That being said either style should do a good job. 

A few tips if you are having problems.

Use cutting oil, you dont need much but a little helps.

Use slow rpm.  A tool maker I apprenticed under would be upset with any speed above 150 rpm on such a tool.

Make use of a solid stop.  At least in a mill or drill press.  Comming down on a solid stop can get rid of a lot of chatter if you are still having problems.

To me if chatter is a problem, you are probably just running your tool to fast.

Andrew

[caliber45]

What daveg said. Right on the money. -- paulallen, tucson az

[Blacksmoke]

Here is a tip for those who have counter sinks that chatter - cut a small piece of thin denim about the size of a average patch and put it between the counter sink and your hole and when you apply pressure the the cutter the fabric will eliminate your chatter.    Works every time!     Hugh Toenjes

[C Wallingford]

Here is a tip for those who have counter sinks that chatter - cut a small piece of thin denim about the size of a average patch and put it between the counter sink and your hole and when you apply pressure the the cutter the fabric will eliminate your chatter.    Works every time!     Hugh Toenjes

A paper towel folded a couple of times works also. Run slow and you get no chatter.

[Eric Krewson]

When I made my first rifle I drilled the hole for the tang screw in my drill press but countersunk the hole with a hand drill. When I tightened the tang screw my barrel moved up abut .010. I enlarged the counter sink, same problem, I tried different angles, same problem.

 By now I had the hole in the tang so wallowed out I had to have it tig welded up so I could start over.

The next time I drilled the hole in the tang I replaced the drill bit with my counter sink and countersunk the hole at exactly the same angle as the hole I drilled, problem fixed.

[Stophel]

I have no idea how many RPM's I turn my countersink.  It's however fast my arm can turn the brace!

[Rasch Chronicles]

Speaking of braces, and this actually has nothing to do with them, but it did remind me of it, there was a tool that depended on high pressure and nothing more than arm strength to bore large diameter holes through all sorts of stuff! I have to go look that up again and see if I can fond it. It was really neat, a frame, a jack, and a ratchet type arm to turn the bit. And when I say it turned and cut a neat, clean, large diameter hole, I'm not kidding!

'Twas awesome in the extreme!

Best Regards,
Albert “Afghanus” Rasch
The Rasch Outdoor Chronicles™
A Chronicles’ Project: How to Smoke Fish!

[Mike New]

I have found that if I use a hand drill and touch the countersink to the work then turn on the hand drill I am more likely to have chatter. I all ways get a much smoother countersunk hole if the tool is turning before coming in contact with the work. Running very slow. A rigid set up is also helpful as is a sharp countersink.  When I served my toolmaker apprenticeship I was also taught to keep things "short". For example you should not let your lathe tool hang out farther than necessary. A countersink is usually a short stubby tool but it can still chatter if left hanging out of the chuck more than necessary. Mike.