Seniors moment.re Berks gun finished

[longrifle]

Very nice, look's good

[Don Getz]

Bob.........not sure how the book says to do it but, you may have put the cart before the horse here.   I normally inlet the
lock before I place the touchole in the barrel.   Much easier to get it in the right place by doing it that way.   A lot of thought has to go into the placing of the lock, by having the touchole already placed, it just makes for one more alignment
to be considered.   When I build a gun, the touchhole is probably the last thing I do before finish...............Don

[greybeard]

Thanks Don . Yes I got the cart afore the horse . Started the lock inlet yesterday and it only took about 5 min to realize that there is no room for error now>>>>>??
   If Ihad waited I could have had the lock 1/32nd or so lower.  DUH
Bob

[greybeard]

OK folks , I need a couple of ideas here. The grey line you see where the upper arm of the mainspring goes you can see a grey wavey line where I just barelycut into the barrel channel.
My thought is to file a few thou of the corner of the barrel and put a minute coat if epoxey in there and wrap a bit of saran round the spring , oil the barrel and put everything back together for a few hours . I just want to make it a bit stronger.  Or should I just leave it alone???
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[Don Getz]

Bob........that is not really a problem, happens often.    The gun I'm working on right now has gone thru in the same area,
but it is no real problem.     I have, on occassion, had to file some of the main spring away to get the lock to fit properly,
keep goin'...............Don

[greybeard]

Thanks Don.  I Did file a 45 degree angle on the top arm of the spring so the problem would not get any worse. I guess it's not a big problem but annoying all the same.
Cheers     Bob

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I agree with Don...no biggie.  Filing a little off the top edge as you have done will help with metal to metal contact there.  The English got around it by making the foot of the spring longer.  Great to see your progress Bob.

[greybeard]

Ho   Me again.   Been workin (part time) .  I the laet few days i have the lock inlet. Them the triggers (2 days) and finally got them timed as they should be and they go snap, clatch just fine.
  Next step will be to bolt it all together. (tang bolt , 2 lock bolts , and wood screw in back of the trigger plate.)
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[greybeard]

So we had house guests for a week and not much progress. I did manage to get everything locked up, (lock bolts & Tang bolt. Going slower than I anticipated.

[DutchGramps]

Second pic, do I see a blood stain ....?

[greybeard]

I like to think of them as strawberries.     Bob

[greybeard]

So it's been a while but finally have the buttplate anchored. It's starting to look a bit like a Berks county gun I think. Now ready for the T G inlet. Starting tosee the light at the end of the tunnel.
Thanks for looking . Any sugestions would be most welcome.  Bob

[Jim Kibler]

On the photo with the sideplate it seems there is a projection from the bottom edge below the bolt.  Is this inlet in the wood?  I suspect since this is a cast sideplate it is a casting gate projection.  Can't recall seeing this shape on a Berks gun or any gun for that matter, but I of course might be wrong.  Curious what your thoughts are.

Jim

[greybeard]

Jim;   I think it is the gate . Not inlet yet but it will come off when I inlet it. Thanks   Bob

[greybeard]

OK,  I have the forend slimmed down and is still square . It is feeling kinda fragile so should I leave it as is untill everything else is done and do the final shaping on the forend last. ??  I am a bit nervous about how to protect it when the barrel is not in the stock. I have never done a forend this skinney before. Any thoughts  would be appreciated.   Bob
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[A.Merrill]

    graybeard,  you have a lot of wood left don't worry about it, just don't leave the barrel out of the stock over night or any length of time, it could warp. I don't know why I'm telling you this I'm sure you know it just a reminder. I had a stock that warped on me, every day for 5 days I would steam it, wedge it, clamp it, not fun.  Anyway, keep up the good work buddy she's looking good.    Good Luck    AL        P.S. Yes, leave the final shaping of the forend for last. When I start the final shaping I get it NEAR done and then install the nose cap. Then I finish the forend. Just my way of doing it. Hope this helps. Good Luck

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

It's looking very good Bob.  If you can, I'd remove at least an eighth of an inch of wood from the bottom of the stock from the trigger forward.  You might even inlet the trigger plate a little deeper and take the wood off right back to the back end of the lock.

[Roger Fisher]

On the photo with the sideplate it seems there is a projection from the bottom edge below the bolt.  Is this inlet in the wood?  I suspect since this is a cast sideplate it is a casting gate projection.  Can't recall seeing this shape on a Berks gun or any gun for that matter, but I of course might be wrong.  Curious what your thoughts are.

Jim

Now, now Jim he knows that's the casting gate and that'l come off, Right?   Oops, now I notice this was answered by young Bob b/4.  Take care Bobbie that the light at the end of the tunnel is not another train coming.

Suggest you cut a hardwood inlet that fits kinda snug like in the barrel channel and that works as a backer to protect the side flat edge of that skinny upper stock.  Makes you less nervous also as your working that edge....

[greybeard]

Thanks folks.   Taylor;  Since posting those pics I have taken some of the wood off of the bottom.  My thoughts are to let in the TG untill it's bout into the RR hole then remove the wood down to the TG inlet and that should leave just over 1/16th + of wood on the forearm??? I hope. Will of course have to let the trigger a bit more and adjust it for the kick off of the sear.
   Cheers   Bob

[longrifle]

That rifle sure is looking good. It look's like it is going to have  some good grain to it.

[greybeard]

Well.  Me again. Spent 3 days to get the trigger guard inlet and pinned down. Note Taylor , I got the tg done proper for once, first time ever that I didn't leave it a bit proud and I like it.
Slow going working betwixt back spasms but getting there. Having the tg in makes it look more
like a gun than ever . Taylor, I ended up with about 70 - 80 thou of wood from the tg to the entry thimble , Cant bring myself to go any thinner   Bob. (lookin for critique)
Sorry Photobucket is down.  pics tomorrow

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Bob, that is looking very good.  I think this is your best work so far...
Don't take anymore off the forend's bottom.  I've made lots of rifles with as little as 1/16" between the rod hole and the bottom without any problems. It's only 1/16" thin along the bottom of the hole...then it gets thicker fast.  I've even milled out a groove in the forward extension of the trigger guard to let the rod go in to the lug.
I think Longrifle is referring to the "figure" rather than the grain - both look good.

[greybeard]

Kinda slow going but finally have the side  plate inlet and was careful not to go deeper than the bevels. Then I sawed out a toe plate and have it installed. It took a day and a half picking away at it off and on.     Bob
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[KLMoors]

Love it. Keep the pics coming.

[Roger Fisher]

Looking at that cheek piece (and you may be shortening it) It looks a mite long and should really be shortened up so it does not appear overpowering on that side of the butt....   Some nice tapered grooves cut in the thick part would also be nice.  P.C or not!