Author Topic: Entry pipe  (Read 15800 times)

Offline Dphariss

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Entry pipe
« on: April 25, 2011, 12:36:33 AM »
This is making some pipes for a a friend.
As usual I did not take all the pictures I should have.
I have tried to get more photos done or work in progress. I use them in computer slide shows at guild meetings and our Gunmakers Fair.

Layout lines and cut. File all edges smooth and straight. Leave the mark on the work to help get the edge filed to the line.


Bend tabs 90 degrees then start forming the tube. This is an upper pipe but process is the same for entry pipe though care must be taken to keep the tail well centered on the entry pipe.


The punch is made from hardened and tempered tool steel. It still acquires some dents but holds its shape well. I use it in cold forming trigger shoes as well.










I have one made of wood as well.











Check alignment and bend as needed





Twist and form tail as needed to get it as it needs to be.









Make sure everything is fairly square.



I made this set for a friend. They are silver soldered. I did not do the final filing etc since he needs to finalize the tail etc to his needs.

The friend is a very accomplished traditional maker who wanted to have some parts from friends and apprentices incorporated into the rifle.
In making the upper pipes its a good idea to make the upper pipes slightly larger, especially to upper one if a tapered rod is used.

This is another entry pipe before and after engraving



Dan
« Last Edit: January 13, 2020, 05:39:13 AM by rich pierce »
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Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: Entry pipe
« Reply #1 on: April 25, 2011, 02:17:33 AM »
Wonderful tutorial Dan.  Great pictures and very nice work.
D. Taylor Sapergia
www.sapergia.blogspot.com

Art is not an object.  It is the excitement inspired by the object.

Offline James Rogers

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Re: Entry pipe
« Reply #2 on: April 25, 2011, 02:22:52 AM »
Wonderful tutorial Dan.  Great pictures and very nice work.

Ditto, well done Dan. Great contribution.

Offline Old Ford2

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Re: Entry pipe
« Reply #3 on: April 25, 2011, 06:37:44 AM »
Thank you Dan, I really do appreciate your photos, and instruction.
All the best

Old Ford
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Let the Lord pick the good from the bad!

Offline Dphariss

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Re: Entry pipe
« Reply #4 on: April 25, 2011, 08:07:13 AM »
Wonderful tutorial Dan.  Great pictures and very nice work.
Thanks to everyone for the compliments.
I really like making rod pipes for the guns I make. I use some cast steel entry pipes on English stuff if I make such a thing but find I can make a far better pipe than I can buy and make them unique to the project.

Dan
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welafong1

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Re: Entry pipe
« Reply #5 on: April 26, 2011, 06:49:58 AM »
Wonderful tutorial Dan i learned a lot
thank you
Richard Westerfield

Offline Tim Crosby

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Re: Entry pipe
« Reply #6 on: April 27, 2011, 11:40:59 PM »
Dan,
 As a clarification, will you post a pic of the pattern you used. It looks like the angles were the tail meets the pipe are rounded rather than 90 deg.

 Thanks, Tim C.

Offline Dphariss

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Re: Entry pipe
« Reply #7 on: April 28, 2011, 06:54:57 AM »
Dan,
 As a clarification, will you post a pic of the pattern you used. It looks like the angles were the tail meets the pipe are rounded rather than 90 deg.

 Thanks, Tim C.


This is what I use though I usually just mark it out on the brass. Its one of the steps I did not photograph ::)

This is drawn from Jay T. Close's "Apprentice's Notebook" article in the March 1979 Muzzle Blasts.



Make A-B the rod diameter X PI plus .020" perhaps.

Mr. Close also recommends wrapping the forming rod with a piece of paper to give the diameter.
This series of articles ran intermittently in the 70s and 80s. Excellent information.

Dan
« Last Edit: March 19, 2024, 05:17:36 PM by rich pierce »
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brokenflint

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Re: Entry pipe
« Reply #8 on: May 03, 2011, 04:29:40 PM »
Dan  what tool steel did you use for the punch?  about what size is the rounded tip, 1/4 to 3/8" or so?   

Offline Dphariss

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Re: Entry pipe
« Reply #9 on: May 04, 2011, 08:32:40 AM »
Dan  what tool steel did you use for the punch?  about what size is the rounded tip, 1/4 to 3/8" or so?   

Shaft is 3/8" for 3/8" pipes, nose is tapered down to about 1/4".
Even if the shaft is larger the punch end needs to be small enough to shape the tail properly so 5/16 to 1/4" is about right even if for a 7/16 rod.
I used 0-1 tool steel rod from MSC. It has a pretty wide quench temperature. I then drew it back to a dark straw color, about 400-425. Since it gets beat on full length it needs to be pretty hard to prevent excessive flattening.

Dan
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Offline Jay Close

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Re: Entry pipe
« Reply #10 on: May 04, 2011, 04:07:57 PM »
Dan, you make me blush!  There are some real bloopers in one or two of those old articles.

Offline Dphariss

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Re: Entry pipe
« Reply #11 on: May 04, 2011, 04:34:15 PM »
Dan, you make me blush!  There are some real bloopers in one or two of those old articles.

Years ago, when I went to work for a flight school and told the chief pilot I was rusty not having done any FI work for about a year. His answer?  "You know more than the students".

There is an old MB article on making an adjustable lock so that angles could be changed to test sparking etc. It has several seriously erroneous statements perhaps 15% of the text, based on my experience and other current knowledge. But back in the day, circa 1967, it was a revelation and taught me a lot. So the articles need not be perfect to teach or inform.

Dan
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Offline rich pierce

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Re: Entry pipe
« Reply #12 on: June 06, 2017, 09:34:13 PM »
Found this helpful again. So pushing it to the top.
Andover, Vermont