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Author Topic: Barrel Underlugs  (Read 1722 times)
Bob Rearley
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« on: October 05, 2011, 12:33:27 AM »

Looking for references and or advice on installing barrel underlugs on round barrels.

Thanks, Bob
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Dave t k
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« Reply #1 on: October 05, 2011, 07:57:02 AM »

  I don't do the link thing, Someone can do that if you need it... Go to the tutorial  section. Taylor has a great posting on both making and installing underlugs....

Regards
Dave
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Dave
Dr. Tim-Boone
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« Reply #2 on: October 05, 2011, 08:31:46 AM »

here you go:

http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=10152.0
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De Oppresso Liber
Marietta, GA

Liberty is the only thing you cannot have unless you are willing to give it to others. William Allen White

Learning is not compulsory...........neither is survival! - W. Edwards Deming
bgf
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« Reply #3 on: October 05, 2011, 08:40:54 AM »

I believe what he is asking is specific to round barrels.  I've never messed with one, but from what I've read here, it is more common to solder on the lugs for a round barrel, particularly if it is thin.  I've seen a few references to dovetails on round barrels, but they are very shallow and also soldered, if I comprehended correctly. 
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Dr. Tim-Boone
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« Reply #4 on: October 05, 2011, 09:20:01 AM »

Make the lug the same way,, form the base to fit the diameter of the barrel and solder in place...be sure it is lined up.....on a straight centerline..on the bottom of the barrel.  You will hear lots of opinions... but I have experimented with solder paste and it is so much easier to use for this purpose..and it is strong.....I can't knock the lugs off.....
  Get it at Amazon..there are several on the market
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De Oppresso Liber
Marietta, GA

Liberty is the only thing you cannot have unless you are willing to give it to others. William Allen White

Learning is not compulsory...........neither is survival! - W. Edwards Deming
Long Ears
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« Reply #5 on: October 05, 2011, 09:27:56 AM »

Bob, I just finished that project last night on my English Fowler I'm building. Depending on barrel wall thickness at the various installation points along the barrel you may be able to put a VERY shallow dovetail lug on. I gave up on this guess work and solder the curved style on the round parts of the barrel. You do not want to get the barrel too hot so I do not use silver solder however some here use the low temp. solders on the market. I use plumbers solder with an acid flux.
     You will need to tin both surfaces, (Lug and Barrel). The key again is NOT TOO HOT. I heat with a propane torch until the solder will melt on the surface without flame after a few seconds. Get a little puddle and gently heat it and smear a thin coat of solder in the location needed. After both surfaces have cooled I lightly sand the surfaces and re flux both. I modified a little vise grip clamp so it has a grove in one side and a saddle for under the barrel on the other jaw. Clamp the lug in the location making sure it is straight and plumb. Now gently heat until you see the solder between the two get shiny. Let her cool and presto, done deal. I have yet to have one come off even the one holding my slings. I have built 5 Fowler's now and used this practice. Your milage may vary however. Good luck, Bob
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Dphariss
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« Reply #6 on: October 05, 2011, 11:11:19 AM »

Looking for references and or advice on installing barrel underlugs on round barrels.

Thanks, Bob

On fowlers and such with thin barrel solder.
Using one of the high strength soft solders that flow at about 375-475 degrees.

Brownell's Hi Force 44 comes to mind. But its pricey having a fairly high silver content.
Lead free pllumbers solder should work OK as well. "Tin" both parts with solder then set in place and heat.
Dan
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"American Girls and American Guys
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rich pierce
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« Reply #7 on: October 05, 2011, 03:55:10 PM »

Jack Brooks tells me that on most original fowling and trade gun pieces he's examined, even those with thin muzzles, the underlugs and front sight are staked in, not soldered.  I asked how the heck they managed to fire blue barrels with soldered lugs and sights.  Answer: they didn't.
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Dr. Tim-Boone
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« Reply #8 on: October 05, 2011, 03:59:53 PM »

The longhammock  barrel was toooooooooo thin!! for me anyway
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De Oppresso Liber
Marietta, GA

Liberty is the only thing you cannot have unless you are willing to give it to others. William Allen White

Learning is not compulsory...........neither is survival! - W. Edwards Deming
smart dog
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« Reply #9 on: October 05, 2011, 05:33:56 PM »

Hi Bob,
You can always do it this way.






dave
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smokinbuck
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« Reply #10 on: October 05, 2011, 06:18:42 PM »

Smart Dog,
And the bands just become barrel decorations?
Mark
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Mark
Leo in PA
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« Reply #11 on: October 05, 2011, 06:31:47 PM »

I'll second the use of the silver bearing solder paste.  I bought some at Lowe's under the name Solder-It.  The solder flows @ 430F. 

I was told to mark the area around the lug with a graphite pencil.  That keeps extra solder from sticking where you don't want it. 

I used a forcep to hold the vertical part of the lug then I duct taped the forcep to the barrel.  It worked like a charm.  I did two lugs and I'm sure they'll hold well.

Leo           
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smart dog
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« Reply #12 on: October 05, 2011, 09:02:22 PM »

Hi Mark,
Yes they can be decorated and dressed up.  On one English gun by Griffin they were made of silver.  During the 18th century it was fashionable for young Englishmen to take the "Grand Tour" of Europe.  They would go to Venice, Rome, Paris, Madrid, etc. to complete their cultural (and carnal) education.  If they were sportsmen or gun enthustiasts, they often would come home with high quality gun barrels made in Spain or Italy and have a London maker like Griffin or Twigg, mount them up in a gun.  The esteem, particularly of Spanish barrels, was so high that many makers opted to install barrel lugs using bands like I made instead of brazing or soldering them to the barrel.  They felt that the heat would damage the fine Spanish barrels.  I was always fascinated by this and decided to try it on an English fowling gun that I am building that has a very lightweight 20 guage barrel.  I never had the opportunity to see how the makers created the loop for the barrel key so I invented my own design that is very strong and works very well.  It was really fun to do but a little challenging, particularly inletting the bands in the stock. 

dave     
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"Pa read it in the paper and Ma heard it down at the corner store, so it must be true"  Bert and I
Bob Rearley
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« Reply #13 on: October 06, 2011, 06:09:43 PM »

Thank you gentlemen.  A lot of great ideas.  I have been making my own lugs for some time.
It's a lot of fun and a change of pace when I need a break.
Bob
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ironwolf
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Kevin Wolfe


« Reply #14 on: October 06, 2011, 10:25:41 PM »

  If you ever try a solder paste like Dr. Tim suggest, or Swif like I did, you'll never go back.  No tinning or sweating involved.  Just paint both surfaces, clamp and heat.  Thank you Jerry H. for showing me that.

  KW
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Kevin Wolfe
Dphariss
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« Reply #15 on: October 06, 2011, 10:41:07 PM »

Jack Brooks tells me that on most original fowling and trade gun pieces he's examined, even those with thin muzzles, the underlugs and front sight are staked in, not soldered.  I asked how the heck they managed to fire blue barrels with soldered lugs and sights.  Answer: they didn't.

The problem with staking is bore distortion. But if charcoal bluing solder is not at option at least not before bluing.

Dan
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"American Girls and American Guys
Will always stand up and salute  Will always recognize
When we see Old Glory Flying   There's a lot of men dead   So we can sleep in peace at night   When we lay down our head"
Toby Keith "Courtesy of the Red White and Blue"
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