As the hammer moves back, the length of the arm effectively shortens as the link swings under the arm. This gives the hammer more leverage causing the reduction in force felt as it reaches full cock. The reverse is that as the hammer drops, the spring gains leverage as the effective distance increases. The curve can't be linear, because of the changing geometry and leverage of the arc of the arm. Maybe a really well made spring could load the arm equally through its arc.
I wrote this earlier this AM but decided not to post then.
Forsythe talks of the "heavy first lifting" of the hammer, this was 1850s, being one indication of a good lock.
A good link mainspring lock, flint or percussion, will have very similar if not identical tumblers. As the cock is drawn back the mechanical advantage of the mainspring changes so that pressure on the sear surfaces is reduced.
This accomplished by a long arm to connect to a properly designed link and a arched and so preloaded mainspring of the proper length to allow the "hooks" of the main spring to move closer the the tumbler center as the tumbler rotates.
This performs several important functions.
In percussion guns the high pressure this generates at the down position holds the hammer on the nipple when firing pressure is present. In flint guns this significant increase in pressure helps maintain cock speed as the flint scrapes the frizzen.
The other important thing accomplished by this is that at full cock pressure on the sear is reduced significantly at full cock. This reduces the PSI on the sear nose which as Mr Roller pointed out can be anywhere from "high" to "extreme". This reduction in pressure also makes it easier to get a nice trigger pull.
This design does not need a thick heavy mainspring. In fact thick heavy mainsprings are a detriment. A lighter mainspring, properly tempered with a significant preload is needed.
The link must be exactly the right length too short or too long and the desirable features can disappear and it might be impossible to even cock the lock due to parts binding.
The easiest way for the reader here to see the design is to buy the original Purdey rifle plans that are available from TOW and others. The lock internals appear to be identical to the late Manton flint guns of similar plate size.
The best grade English locks, from perhaps 1760 onward were really works of art in their function.
Understanding this requires finding and cocking a
good English percussion or flint gun, or a good copy, a few times.
Dan