modification to a barrel pin drift

[4ster]

So I apologize if this is common knowledge, I did a quick search and didn't find anything.  In case this is useful to someone....

My just completed pistol has the stock attached to the barrel with 1/16th inch pins.  My previous build used captive keys so using pins are new to me.  During construction I was using extra pin stock for my drift pin.   I made it through the construction process without impaling the stock with the pin drift.  Unfortunately after the stock was finished I was not so lucky and now have a couple of shallow 1/16" divots next to the rear most pin.    *&%$#@ 

It finally dawned on me how to keep the drift from sliding off the pins when inserting them into the stock:  I carefully ground shallow, dull points on each end of the barrel pins.  Using a 1/16" round diamond Dremel bit I put a slight dish in the end of the drift pin.  Now the drift centers on the barrel pins and has no tendency to slide off.  I finished off the tool with a wooden dowel for a handle.   My barrel pins can now be pushed back into position without sliding off and making more divots in the stock.  The tool small enough to easily fit in a possibles bag.

[Acer Saccharum]

That would be a nice addition to Everyman's tool chest and possible bag.

[okieboy]

 I have not been accused of not liking custom special purpose tools, but wouldn't it be easier to just make your pins a little shorter than your stock is wide and the pin hole will guide the pin punch? P.S., if you are going to do much building/assembly a set of Starrett pin punches will be a good investment; one of those things that once you use, you don't know why you didn't already have a set. Really do like the cleverness of your approach though.

[4ster]

My problem was when I was installing the pins.  They were up and needed to be pushed into the stock again.  That is where the drift was slipping off and denting the stock. 

[Acer Saccharum]

I've dented stocks installing pins AND removing them! 

[Lucky R A]

    I think what Okieboy was saying and many of us do, is have a routine.  I insert all pins from the sideplate side and remove them from the lock side.  The pins are sized to be 1/16-1/8 narrower than the width of the stock.  The pins are seated just flush with the surface of the wood with a flat punch much larger than the actual pin.  To remove the pin you insert your pin punch into the hole on the lock side and push the pin out.  I also round the ends of the pins so there is no chance they will catch a wood fiber and booger up a pin hole.   Lucky

[kutter]

I round the ends of the pins and use a punch to set them that has a shallow hollow point.
Same idea, just reversed.

I drive the pins in with my hammer to near full depth before using the punch to set them just below the wood surface. Less chance of slipping off the pin and damaging the wood,,at least for me.

Driving them out I just use a flat faced punch, the edge slightly chamfered so it doesn't catch the wood.
They're already below the wood surface so no chance of adding an extra dimple to it by the punch jumping off the pin.
If they're level with the wood or a bit high, I use the hollow point punch to start them through first.

[greybeard]

I've dented stocks installing pins AND removing them! 

Acer;  In 100 years those little divets will be part of the patina and history of the gun!!     Bob

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

When I use pins, I use .0625" to .072" mild steel stock.  When there is no escutcheon, I make and install them exactly like Ron (Lucky RA) does.  but when I use an escutcheon plate, as in the photo, I create a divot with a tiny centre drill in the lathe.  I remove my barrel each time I clean, so these guys come in and out a lot, yet I do not get sloppy pins or wear marks all over the stock.  If they fit nicely the first time, there is no reason for the pins to become loose.  The drift I use is several thou' smaller than the pin.

[4ster]

Its just like me to overcomplicate a solution to a problem.   -  Use a bigger surface to push the pins in....Doh!  Much simpler.

And Taylor, I always enjoy seeing examples of your inletting work.

That said, the method in my original post works quite well. 

[Eric Smith]

   I think what Okieboy was saying and many of us do, is have a routine.  I insert all pins from the sideplate side and remove them from the lock side.  The pins are sized to be 1/16-1/8 narrower than the width of the stock.  The pins are seated just flush with the surface of the wood with a flat punch much larger than the actual pin.  To remove the pin you insert your pin punch into the hole on the lock side and push the pin out.  I also round the ends of the pins so there is no chance they will catch a wood fiber and booger up a pin hole.   Lucky

Ron, thanks for posting your "routine". Sounds like such a simple thing to do, but as a beginner, I can see how a fellow could get in trouble a few times before the school of hard knocks and common sense kicks in. I bet you got a few more "routines" that keep a fellow out of trouble. I'm going to remebember to make this my routine.