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| | |-+  Pyrodex in revolvers?
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Author Topic: Pyrodex in revolvers?  (Read 2869 times)
flatrock
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Posts: 7


« on: July 29, 2012, 03:22:02 PM »

I have a surplus of pyrodex that was given to me and just wondered if anyone has used it in perc. revolvers.  It is the RS which I know is the FFg equivient of black powder.  Any suggestion? loads in a .44?Huh? Huh
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Bull Shannon
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Posts: 149


« Reply #1 on: July 29, 2012, 03:41:50 PM »

I really don't like using Pyrodex especially for the fouling it leaves behind but not to look a gift horse in the mouth, I would start with 25 grains and see how that works.   If that is hitting low then move up to 30 grains and see how that does for you.
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Old Ford2
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« Reply #2 on: July 29, 2012, 04:12:04 PM »

I am quite biased regarding the BP replacement powders,( I don't like them!) however anybody that shoots black powder handguns, know the difficulty that arises with fowling and the difficulty to continue shooting a revolver.
Without cleaning every two or three cylinders, the action in most cases freezes up solid.
However with Pyrodex P powder, I can easily shoot twenty cylinders full, ( that is 20 X 6 = 120 shots ) without stopping.
I shoot 28 grs. of Pyrodex P, a .457 round ball ( soft lead ) and a dab of lube on each ball.
I also put a grease lube on the cylinder pin prior to shooting.
My black powder revolver is a Uberti 1860 Army ( stainless model )
I do clean it VERY WELL after each shooting session. I have had it since 1985.
I have not used Pyrodex RS in my shooter.
Old Ford
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BrownBear
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« Reply #3 on: July 29, 2012, 05:17:55 PM »

I've had very good luck in a 44, both for ignition and accuracy, with Pyrodex P.  From what I've seen, the guns can't tell it from Goex 3f.  Dunno about Pyrodex RS, but nothing ventured nothing gained.
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Hungry Horse
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« Reply #4 on: July 29, 2012, 05:29:18 PM »

 The only guns I would consider using Pyrodex in are direct fire weapons, like revolvers, double barrel shotguns, or under hammer/sideslapper rifles. Anything with a drum and nipple, or a bolster and nipple, fire too slow with Pyrodex do be very consistent. JMO.

                         Hungry Horse
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volatpluvia
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Posts: 419


Doing mission work in sunny south, Mexico


« Reply #5 on: July 29, 2012, 07:24:35 PM »

I used pyro almost eclusively in the revolver I had.  I would think that you should get good velocity and accuracy with RS if you pack the ball pretty tight.  Like has been said, clean it really good and saturate your metal parts with WD-40 or somesuch.
volatpluvia
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trentOH
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Posts: 196


« Reply #6 on: July 29, 2012, 08:46:45 PM »

Just to go in a little different direction, maybe you could trade it to someone for something you'd rather have....
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Daryl
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« Reply #7 on: July 29, 2012, 10:07:49 PM »

My suggeston for every one fo the phoney powder actually made with chlorates, ie: perchlorates in the MSDS, is to use them for garden fertilizer or merely dump them down the toilet and flush.
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bob in the woods
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« Reply #8 on: July 30, 2012, 03:22:43 PM »

Daryl, ....they work OK for blowing beaver dams  Shocked Grin
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LynnC
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« Reply #9 on: July 31, 2012, 12:40:57 AM »

And stumps too Cheesy
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FRJ
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Posts: 370



« Reply #10 on: July 31, 2012, 11:30:43 AM »

Just to put a positive spin on this, blowing up beaver dams or stumps would only poison a stream or a stump!!!!! That stuff is so noxious that the government should be called to despose of it in a safe and sane manner. FRJ Cheesy
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hanshi
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WWW
« Reply #11 on: July 31, 2012, 01:32:32 PM »

I tried it in a revolver once and didn't like it at all.
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HardBall
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Posts: 108



« Reply #12 on: July 31, 2012, 04:11:54 PM »

I haven't tried Pyrodex in a C&B.  I have had great luck with 2F black powder rather than the typical 3F.  2F will fill a cylinder well with no need for fillers.

I guess Pyrodex "RS" would work similarly but I haven't fired a load of Pyrodex in almost twenty years- I quit using it as soon as I found a place that sold Goex real BP.
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Daryl
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« Reply #13 on: July 31, 2012, 08:19:16 PM »

I have a friend who uses it in a stainless Ruger cap and ball revolver - perhaps it might be OK for that gun, I don't know.

I do know the fumes alone disintegrated the stainless cat-walk over the chlorate vats in a building where it is made. Finding out THAT gem of knowledge was enough for me - not to mention the numbers of barrels I've seen that were destroyed.

One fellow I know who used it exclusively: I watched him clean his barrels.  He actually cleaned his guns thoroughly just after getting back to camp, even before supper, only having fired 3 or 4 shots that day while hunting grouse. All told, he probably only shot 20 shots while hunting that season, but did some testing at home. I knew he was cleaning his guns well, but to no avail.  The stuff still rotted the bores of 4 rifles of his - 2 custom rifles with 3 - GM barrels and 2 TC's - a .40 and a .54. Considering the shallow .004" rifled bores rotted just as badly as the .012" rifling, the rifling depth and possibly not getting them clean, didn't have anything to do with the pitting.

I was flabbergasted at seeing the damage. The bores totally ruined in only 2 years.
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bob in the woods
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« Reply #14 on: August 01, 2012, 09:35:09 AM »

I think a lot of folks would change their minds about using the stuff, if they had an idea about what was actually in the " smoke " ie the gaseous product of the combustion. Mad Monk kindly supplied me with a link at one time which referred to " cyanide" if I recall correctly.  My personal belief, all kidding aside, is that there really is not much reason to use the stuff; and a whole lot of reasons not to.
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