Stock Detail immediately behind top diagonal barrel flats

[frogwalking]

I am working on a Chamber's Early York kit.  I have never seen the real McCoy, and have been studying photos of the York rifles in the library.  Immediately behind the breach end of the barrel, the stocks seem to all be contoured down to meet the top two diagonal flats, along with the top flat and tang.  From the pictures, I cannot see how to do this and make the stock side panels look right.  (Especially the left one.)  Can anyone show closeup photos of this area on a rifle made this way?  I have several books on recreating the longrifle, and none zero in on this detail.   Thanks!

[Jerry V Lape]

Here you go. 

[Dave B]

What  you are asking about is not delt with the same way depending on who it is that you are looking at. George Ester's transition is not the same as John Welshan's What you can do is pick one you like and go for it.  Here is several  examples of several un signed rifles transitions that is representative of a percentage of them.






The following are signed J Welshans first two and G Ester last

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/DaveB44/DSC_0802_zps65e2f8ac.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/DaveB44/DSC_0801_zps42584c01.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/DaveB44/IMGP1085_zpsa3633302.jpg

[pushboater]

Peter Alexander's book deals with this issue and he goes into quite a bit of detail on the subject, although the solution he gives and shows is not as aesthetically pleasing as is the normal practice used by most of today's traditional builders.

Capt. David

[Tom Currie]

This is one of the more subtle things that you learn to deal with as you get more experience. Keeping the side plate panel ( and main lock bolt ) as low as possible helps you angle the flat of the wood as close as possible to the oblique flat of the barrel. Bill Shipman's recent post mentioned a tip that he uses. Peter Alexander in his book menions keeping the stock width on the sideplate side thinner which also allows you to angle the wood down more sharply. Making the wood somewhat concave also gets you closer to the angle of the oblique flate as shown in the pictues of the original in this post.

[Rich]

The tip in Recreating the American Longrifle is to angle the rear lockplate bolt. In other words, decide where you want it on the panel side and angle it to where it has to be on the lock. The head of the bolt will not be square to the plate if you do that. The solution is to spot face the sideplate. I've done it that way and it seems to look good. The fear I initially had was that angling the lock bolt will twist or shift the position of the lock. That didn't happen, but it might if the lock is not properly inlet.

[Roger Fisher]

Scooping that area is simple enough so that even I can do it so that it appears good nice and acceptable....

[frogwalking]

Thanks gentlemen.  I knew about the angled lock bolt and have a counterbore to face the sideplate so it looks right.  When I was younger, and admired an original rifle, I saw things such as this angled bolt and thought the workmanship was lacking.  I am  just now becoming teachable.  Just barely.