English Rook Rifle

[moleeyes36]

I've built a few kits over the years (Golden Age Plains Rifle, Pecatonica's Lehigh County) and I'm just getting started on a Tip Curtis Bucks County Rifle.  After I finish the Bucks County rifle I'm going to jump in the deep side of the pool and build one from scratch.  I've decided to build one based on the English Rook Rifle style in .32 caliber that I can use for squirrel and rabbit hunting.  I'd like to use a 13/16 inch barrel to keep the weight down.  Track of the Wolf has a hooked breech plug in the English Sporting Rifle style for a 13/16 inch barrel (PLUG-ENG-13-5).  They say to use this plug with an English bar lock and filler bar.  The lock they have that fits this description is an L&R (LOCK-LR-500-S).  And here's where I have a question.

The lock description says, " The hammer has a long 1.745" throw for use with barrels from 15/16" up to 1 1/4" at breech ".  Can I use this lock with a 13/16 inch barrel and, if I can, what would I have to do to make it work?  Thanks.

Mole Eyes

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Building a rook rifle is a great project, and the rifle is a delight to handle.  I built one with two interchangeable barrels, for a client in Kansas who like you was concerned about overall weight.  So I used a couple of Green Mountain A weight swamped barrels  and cut them off at 28".  That left me with a lovely light and perfectly tapered pair of barrels.  IIRC, the breech end of the barrels was at least 7/8" and might have even been 15/16".  With a rifle of this design, you're going to need the bigger breech to make it look right and balance well.  I don't think a 13/16" barrel is going to give you that.  Also, I used a Davis English pattern lock, and the filler piece that gets soldered to the side flat of the barrel just for'd of the breech snail.  
Your first job is to take the parts you think you'd like to use, and make a drawing of the rifle in profile.  Start by drawing the barrel on a piece of Bristol board paper then drawn in the breech plug, the lock, etc. until you have all of the parts in the correct relationship to each other.  Then your questions about suitability will be answered.

[moleeyes36]

That's some very good information, thanks.  Unfortunately, Green Mountain's website doesn't show any barrels in .32 caliber in their product line anymore.  I've noticed in recent months their line of round ball barrels has been greatly reduced. 

However, I had a tapered Oregon barrel in .40 caliber made for the gun I just finished which I like very much.  I guess I'll look into having them make a tapered .32 barrel for me that tapers from 15/16" to 13/16" or perhaps even 3/4".  They'll make any length up to 35"; perhaps a 28" or 30" long tapered barrel would balance well.

Mole Eyes

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

ME:  I think if you're going to settle on a .32 cal, go with a 28 - 30 inch taper 7/8" down to 3/4".  Without looking at the TOW catalogue, I think the barrels I used started at 7/8" at the breech.  I bought 15/16" breeches, and after fitting, filed them down to the barrel.  Got a pic somewhere showing that...
Yup, here ya go.  The unfiled breech plug isn't run in all the way yet.  After I fit the tang to the plug, I solder them together so they are inlet as a unit after the barrel itself is inlet.

[Bob Roller]

I had a 32x13/16 rook rifle under construction using the TOW hook breeck as you described and the same method of inletting
it as a unit. I had a lock plate inletted and a thief decided one night in 2008 to break into my shop and get that project,some
lead and two cans of Goex 3fg. The got in by pushing out a big Amana AC in the back wall of the shop.
A lot of people don't kmow what these wonderful little rifles are and I suggest that they try and find back issues of the Double
Gun Journal. They all look alike on the covers so some thumbing thru the pages is needed but this is such a high quality quarterly
book that it's worth the effort tp look.
I have an idea as to the thieves but no proof.

Bob Roller

[Bob Roller]

This same rifle with a neat little flintlock would be a fun project and I THINK a bit easier than the
caplock. I have tools for the little 4 screw lock that is correct on the percussion versions and is a
direct copy of one owned by the late Lynton McKenzie. It is NOT in the price range normally associated
with muzzle loader components.A specialists item for sure.

Bob Roller

[moleeyes36]

My .40 caliber tapered barrel is 35 inches long tapering from 7/8" to 3/4" and balances nicely in a full stock rifle.  I think you're right about going with that same taper in a 28" barrel in the Rook Rifle.  A 15/16" to 3/4" taper in a 28" barrel might look a little strange.  Thanks for your help.

Mole Eyes