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| | |-+  Making a gunlock
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Author Topic: Making a gunlock  (Read 6650 times)
pushboater
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« Reply #30 on: June 13, 2013, 02:12:14 PM »

What a great tutorial!  Looking forward to the next installment.  Thanks for sharing Jim.

Capt. David
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Those who would give up essential liberty, to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety.  (Benjamin Franklin)        Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch.  Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote!  (Benjamin Franklin)
James Wilson Everett
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« Reply #31 on: September 03, 2013, 07:50:46 PM »

Guys,

Now that I am back in the USA, it is time to resume making this gunlock.  At the Fair at New Boston I spent some time shaping the rough pan to the rounded shape I want for the lock.  Here is how it looks after the rough shaping.



You wait until after the frizzen is installed to do the final shaping and to make sure that the pan/frizzen fit is good and tight.

Now for the job of installing the frizzen.  For this lock I am using a ready made firzzen, maybe later I will show the process of forging a frizzen, but I felt lazy.  It is difficult to clamp the frizzen and pan together to drill the frizzen screw hole correctly, especially with the rounded surfaces as with this lock design.



I use super glue and just glue the frizzen in its proper place on the pan.  Yes, I know that this is not historically correct!



With the firzzen glued in place on the pan, check to be sure everything is aligned properly, then drill the frizzen cam hole using the existing lockplate hole as a guide.  I am sure that you understand that these two holes will be in perfect alignment.  This hole is the size for the screw thread tap.



Finally, you ream the frizzen cam hole to the body diameter of the frizzen screw and leave the lockplate hole the size to be later tapped for the frizzen screw thread.  A gentile rap with a hammer will break the super glue joint apart.  This technique will give a really good and tight fit of the frizzen to the pan.



Jim
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Long John
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« Reply #32 on: September 05, 2013, 10:10:56 AM »

Jim,

I am anxiously waiting for the next installment.  When this thread is done I am going to print it out and put it in a safe place for future reference.  I would love to do what you are doing!

Many Thanks and Best Regards,

John Cholin
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Acer Saccharum
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WWW
« Reply #33 on: September 05, 2013, 10:28:34 AM »

Shall we make a tutorial out of this?

By the way, once a thread is posted to the tutorial section, it can no longer be added to. It can be modified, or edited by a mod, or the original poster.
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Rolf
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« Reply #34 on: September 05, 2013, 11:06:39 AM »

Yes, please make it a tutorial. But wait until the lock is finished so all the info is collected in one thread so we don't lose anything.

Best regards
Rolf
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James Wilson Everett
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« Reply #35 on: September 28, 2013, 08:29:03 AM »

Guys,

I was able to do a little more work on the gunlock.  I do the really hand made work as a show-n-tell for the visitors at the Fair at New Boston and the Somerset Mountain Craft Days.  Here is the next installment.  After the frizzen is installed the next step is to file the pan outline to match the frizzen.  I leave the pan a bit oversize until after the frizzen is installed so I can get a good alignment.  Not a whole lot of difference from the last photos as the metal removed from the pan is about 1/16 inch.



Next I install the partially completed frizzen spring, check out the entire process in the tutorial section.  Notice that the cam nose on the frizzen is much too long, it will be trimmed back later.



Also, the pan bolster holding screw has been installed.  The bolster has been trimmed back just until there is clearance for the tumbler bridal screw to pass.  Later it will be final shaped to give clearance for the tumbler bridal and for the mainspring when at full cock.  Remember, you can always cut things smaller, but making them bigger is a chore.



Jim
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KLMoors
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« Reply #36 on: September 28, 2013, 10:36:14 AM »

Very cool. That has very graceful lines.
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Bob Roller
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« Reply #37 on: September 28, 2013, 03:21:27 PM »

Good looking lock.With no pan bridle,how many times can the lock be
fired before the pivot screw gives a bit and upsets the fit to the pan.
I made a couple of small ones about 50 years ago but have no strong
memories beyond the fact I did make them.

Bob Roller
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James Wilson Everett
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« Reply #38 on: September 28, 2013, 03:56:46 PM »

Good comment, Bob, and it is a bit of a concern when making the pan without the bridal/support arm.  What I do is make the frizzen pivot screw from steel instead of wrought iron.  This pivot screw is made from W1 drill rod and hardened and tempered like a spring.  On this one I heated the screw to bright cherry, brine quenched and tempered to just beyond blue, probably about 700F or so.  You can see the heat treat color on the frizzen pivot screw and not on the frizzen spring screw.  This seems to give good results and I have seen no loosening of the fit over time.

Thanks for the comment.

Jim
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Acer Saccharum
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« Reply #39 on: September 28, 2013, 04:29:35 PM »

I suspect that 250 yrs ago, on locks without frizzen bridles, the screw hole wore quickly when made of inferior fit/finish/materials. The bridled frizzen could be made with little more effort, and a lot less precision on the fitting and materials.
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Mark Elliott
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« Reply #40 on: September 29, 2013, 04:50:10 PM »

Tom,

Having worked on English trade locks of various types,  I can tell you that there was not much consideration given to how well they were made or would last.   These things were obviously slapped together for a market that either didn't matter or didn't care.    I really wouldn't give our 18th century English bretheran too much credit.    There was the good stuff they made for the elite among themselves, and the junk they made for the unwashed masses and to send to us.    Wink
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James Wilson Everett
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« Reply #41 on: June 14, 2014, 07:12:13 PM »

Guys,

Now that I am back in the USA, time to make another part.  This is the process for the interior bridal, I cut the part from a solid piece of wrought iron buggy wheel rim.  The blank looks like a rectangular blade with a square lump on the back.  Unlike assembling parts to a ready made lock kit, I find it much easier to drill the tumbler pin pivot hole first, then the screw holes later.  Here is a picture of the blank installed on the lockplate.  The dark rust is the original outside surface of the buggy wheel rim, the same raw material as used earlier for the pan.





The tumbler pin pivot hole is drilled so that the tumbler is nearly in contact with the lump on the bridal.  Then the lump thickness is filed down until the lump is only about three hairs thicker than the tumbler to give the proper clearance for tumbler movement.





When this clearance is right, I superglue the bridal lump to the lockplate interior at the proper position.  Then I drill the clearance hole for the bridal attachment screw using the existing lockplate  screw hole as the guide.  This way when the screw is installed, the tumbler pivot pin and the corresponding hole in the bridal plate are in perfect alignment.  Note that this is backwards from the way a Siler kit is assembled.





Last the sear screw hole is drilled in the bridal plate using the existing lockplate screw hole as a guide.  The next step is to shape the bridal plate to make it pretty.  That's next time.

Jim
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Jerry V Lape
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« Reply #42 on: June 14, 2014, 09:18:22 PM »

I seemed to have missed how you made the tumbler or did you use a part from another kit?  I remember you showing me quite a few years back at the Hanna's town fair how you were making a tumbler using some modified pliers to cut the rounded surfaces.  Is that your current method? 
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James Wilson Everett
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« Reply #43 on: June 14, 2014, 10:22:46 PM »

Jerry,

Right, I made the tumbler by forging, filing and finishing with a tumbler mill - but I did not document the process with photos.  I will do that and post the photos when I get a round tuit.  Here are photos of the tumbler as it is now - semi finished.  The sear notches are the very last thing done, even after installing the mainspring.  The tumbler is made from W1 steel, just about the same as 1095 steel.

Jim





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JTR
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« Reply #44 on: June 15, 2014, 02:24:30 PM »

James, I really enjoy following your progress, so keep up the good work!

I have two original old hand made locks very similar in style to what you're making, but with less curve on the bottom of the plate. One has unfortunately lost its rifle somewhere along the line, but the other is on a nice early 1780's J. Ferree rifle.

It'll be interesting to see what you make for a hammer on your lock!

John
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John Robbins
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