Tru-Oil over Chamber's Stock Finish?

[frogwalking]

I have got a color I like on my maple stock, but still need a few more coats to finish filling and smoothing everything out (preferably clear).  Can I put Tru-Oil over Chamber's stock finish if it is well rubbed with steel wool?   How long should it cure before I do, (if it is reasonable).  

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

Although the Chambers finish has a color, I don't think that it will add that much color as the layers are very thin. How many more layers are you planning to add? I usually apply it with a small pad of cloth, let it set up to tacky, then wipe of the excess, then repeat in 24 hours. Repeating daily till I get to the point where an application of finish doesn't improve the look of the rifle. Usually 7 to 10 applications I think.

I've also used permalyn as a soak-in base coat, then Chambers over that with successful results. I don't know how it'll work the other way round with tru-oil on top. You could always set aside your rifle long enough to run a test on some scrap to see how it actually works out, I think that's what I'd do before I took the chance or messing it up.

Hey worst case you can always strip the stock and start over. It usually comes out perfect the second time. Don't ask how I know that. LOL

[Pete G.]

Tru Oil is a pretty shiny finish; I suspect it is some sort of a modified varnish. I would keep using the Chambers rubbed in as thin as possible and then wipe down with a paper towel. Try a couple of coats and then see if its going the way you like.

[bob in the woods]

The Chambers oil finish is fine on it's own. Why do you think you need the tru-oil or rather , why do you want to use it over the other finish ?   I really don't see the purpose.

[Bentflint]

I'm with them. I used to use Permalyn sealer for first coat. I was testing color on some very hard slab cut maple. 3/8 x 2" or so. I used Chambers oil to see what it would look like. It soaked through in about 10 min. Thats a good enough seal for me.

[mattdog]

I'll answer your question rather than express an opinion on whether you should or shouldn't.

Yes, you can use Tru-Oil over Chamber's oil finish.  Be sure it is completely dry and dull it back first with steel wool or light abrasive of your choice.  Always dull back Tru-Oil between coats (I use steel wool)  After the final coat I dull it one more time to remove the high shine and then wax it for a satin finish. 

[frogwalking]

Thanks,  I love the Chamber's Stock Finish, color, durability and such.  I can't seem to get a good final coat.  I put it on with my fingers.  If it goes on very thin, it seems to always leave streaks.  If I put it on thicker, it gives a nice low gloss, but leaves either a run here or there, or an area or two that appear "grainy".  I always dull each coat before adding the next, blow out the cavities with compressed air, and clean with tack rag before coating.  To get a consistent finish, I generally end up buffing with fine steel wool and waxing, as someone noted when using the tru-oil.  How do you put Chambers on to end up with a great finish?  Maybe I am not doing it the best way.

Thanks again.
Frog

[smallpatch]

My first question is ....... Why would you want to? Chambers oil is probably the easiest finish I can think of to work with, and get a great, low gloss finish that lasts.
Secondly, Chambers oil is a wipe on, wipe off type of finish. Do not try to leave it on, it will never dry, and give a nice finish that way. Continue to apply, wipe off, and I think you'll be very pleased.

[Ky-Flinter]

....Chamber's Stock Finish.... I can't seem to get a good final coat.  I put it on with my fingers.  ........

Frogwalking,

There was a tip here on ALR several years ago, I think from Don Stith, that I use.  Cut a small section of nylon panty hose, say 3" x 3".  Stretch it over your finger and dip that in the finish.  It will hold a little more finish than your finger alone and seems to eliminate the streaking.  

Just my opinion, but I would not put Tru-Oil over the Chmbers finish.

-Ron

[KentSmith]

It seems to me if the finish is streaking you are putting too much on, that's why the nylon hose cut down streaking because they hold just a little.  If you are seeing streaks you need to spread the oil out more and not use so much.  You should be able to see the finish "shine" in the light but not the finish itself.  Definitely don't put it on so thick you get runs.

[Ky-Flinter]

It seems to me if the finish is streaking you are putting too much on, that's why the nylon hose cut down streaking because they hold just a little. 

Too much, too little.....  I dunno, but the panty hose trick works for me.

-Ron

[Darkhorse]

When I put on my final coats of Chambers finish I rub it on with my palm. Just a little finish and rub until I feel friction heat in my palm, Then a spot more and continue. Leaves a real good even finish.

[smallpatch]

Again, the pantyhose trick works good with a varnish, or finish that glosses up.  It evens it out nicely, and keeps it from streaking.

BUT, Chamber's oil is NOT  that kind of finish.  You wipe it on, and you wipe it off.  Let dry, and repeat.  It will build ups it' own sheen without getting really glossy.  Tru-oil makes a stock look plastic and shiny.

Stay with the Chamber's and add a few more coats.  You'll like the results.  Unless you're going for that plastic shiny look.

[TNVolunteerEngineer]

I use my own mix of tung oil and polyethylene and wet sand it to fill pores.  I do a lot of walnut and the pores are much larger than maple.   My finish will fill all pores in three coats.  But my finish is a little thick to produce a nice final finish with no flaws.  So I use 0000 steel wool to knock down the surface, and then rub on Tru oil with my bare hands to produce the final glossy finish.  Usually 2-3 coats of Tru oil with 0000 between will suffice.  The final step is rottenstone and oil on a pad to reduce the sheen to produce a satin finish.

[KentSmith]

Funny I was reading this thread and saw I had contributed to it.  Can't remember writing that. 

Anyhow, I was taught to put the first coat on with a wrap, nylon hose, whatever, rather heavy but not running, wait a bit and wipe off the excess.  Cure 24 hours.  Repeat with thin coats (when you roll the stock in the light you can't see any streaks or runs).  Wait a bit. Wipe off the excess.  cure.  repeat.  repeat. etc. until you are satisfied.  thin coats, wipe off excess, cure, repeat is the key.

On a sunny dry day I like to cure in the sun.

I made my first several guns using Tru-oil.  One I made for my Dad - looking at it 40 guns later, the depth of the finish just wasn't there.  It looked like it was.  the thick finish sitting on top of the wood rather than the wood itself.

[mike e]

I finished a rifle back in 2000 with two coats of the Chambers. Let it dry overnight then two coats of Tru Oil. I've used it for hunting every year and it has held up well.