Cleaning patch and jag stuck in barrel

[Standing Bear]

1.  Use jags with 10-32 threads, not 8-32.  Less likely to break off and remain in barrel.

Don't use jags with grass threads.  I like to drill thru and countersink to use an allen head steel screw in a SS rod.  All of my range rods and accessories are 8-32, no reason just got started and continued over 30+ years.
TC

[bob in the woods]

I have removed seemingly stuck rods/jags from barrels by using a rope tied around a tree, and then looped onto the "T" end of the rod.  Get a running start and you can "jerk" the thing as hard as you can. It will come out!

[Daryl]

Excellent!!  I've seen ranges with two nails driven close together up high in the wood of the roof.  You can put the end of the range rod between the nails and pull the rod with body weight.

We have stirrup attached to a tree at the start of our trail walk. Hanging in the tree is a long stainless rod, balls screws in a Speer yellow plastic bullet box also screwed to the tree.  If someone has a problem and needs to pull a ball, he only has to walk back to the tree, select the appropriate ball screw, attach that to the rod, screw it into the ball, place the handle in the yoke stirrup and pull the gun away from the rod.
 Oft times it helps to drill a smaller hole in the ball, so the ball screw doesn't expand the too tightly into the bore.

This is primarily a problem when using harder than dead soft lead for balls.

[RonC]

I have removed seemingly stuck rods/jags from barrels by using a rope tied around a tree, and then looped onto the "T" end of the rod.  Get a running start and you can "jerk" the thing as hard as you can. It will come out!

That is a great solution IF the t-handle is held on to the rod strongly enough. There just is a single, small pin through the handle and rod and I was concerned that the "yank" method might just pull the handle off or tear the threads of the 3 part rod. I was even anxious about tearing the handle off hitting it with the rubber mallet.
I really like the idea of being able to hang the handle on some sort of elevated hook, enough so to set a rig up at the shooting range.
Thanks again for great ideas!!
Ron

[Jerry V Lape]

Don't underestimate the power of a CO2 ball discharger to clear the barrel.  I had a partcularly stubborn jam to remove.  I heated the CO2 cylinder by holding it under the warm water tap (I held it in my fingers so as to insure it wasn't far overheated) then put it in the device and triggered the discharger.  The obstruction came out with a sharp report louder than a .22 rimfire and sailed well down range.  I heated the cylinder because it was well below freezing and the cylinder was cold soaked and the previous cylinder failed to produce significant pressure.  My air compressor at home removed problems jams others have brought to me.  I have a soft tipped air gun that can be handheld on a nipple or over a flintlock touchhole.  50psi is all that is necessary.  Much easier than cleaning up the mess of using a grease gun. 

[smylee grouch]

I have a co2 discharger that I re-plumbed for my shop air compressor. I can regulate the line presure up to 100 plus pounds. It works good for unloading when I come home from hunting with out firing off my shot.

[EC121]

Ron: The next thing to do is order a one piece stainless range rod.  Most of them have threaded handles.  A 3 piece rod will probably get loose joints as time/use goes on.  I have 3-4 of them and 6-8 wooden rods.  I got tired of hunting different caliber tips so I got one for each caliber.

[RonC]

It is time for me to seriously look at these CO2 systems.
I have a one-piece, brass "range rod" with a screw-on T-handle that I keep at home. Taking the multiple piece, brass range rod to the field was a matter of convenience because it fit into the wood box I made. With this experience, I am going to shift to the one-piece rod.
Ron

[Dennis Glazener]

With this experience, I am going to shift to the one-piece rod.

You might be interested in doing what I did. I stopped by my local steel dealer and bought a piece of air hardening 5/16 drill rod. I think it was an 8 ft piece I know I made two range rods out of them. I learned back in my benchrest shooting days that a hard steel rod is less likely to wipe out lands in your barrel. The thought is that the powder residue does not embed in hard steel as it does in brass, thus becoming a lap. Don't know for sure if this is true but all the shooters used hardened steel rods with those expensive target barrels.

(By the way using a guide did not keep our rods from wiping out lands, the problem came from the rods bowing in the mid section (tight patches) and wiping up against a land. You could easily see where with a bore scope. Hopefully the larger caliber of our ML barrels will be less like to have this problem)

I think the 8 ft piece cost me less than $10, I keep thinking around $7 but my memory is not that great
Dennis

[RonC]

Thank you, Dennis.
There must be a shop that sells steel rod and shafts near here. A little Googling will find it. (I don't know about you all, but "Googling" sure sounds like doing something illicit. )
I also can ask my department head. He is used to giving me the shaft.
Ron

[goodtime7]

It was suggested that fitting a grease fitting in a percussion gun and then pumping grease into the barrel would work.   I did that successfully with a 10 ga double shotgun.   Had a wooden ramrod stuck, and pulled about as hard as I thought I could without breaking it.  BUT, with the grease and pulling on the rod it came out ok.  Was a mess to clean up afterward.   It's one of those experiences that you just think "how did I get in this predicament!!!)

[Kermit]

I don't think I hallucinated this. Someone makes/made a ramrod accessory that screwed to the end of a rod and had a short drill bit for boring a hole in a stuck ball so the screw puller could get a purchase without expanding the ball. Seemed like a useful idea. Anyone have one?

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Kermit:  that's what Daryl was describing.  We often had people dry balling on the trail, and either had to use their ramrods and a ball screw, or go home.  So I made a 54" 3/8" stainless steel rod with a brazed on steel T handle that hangs in the big spruce tree at the start of the trail.  With it is a pair of antique pliers and a plastic box with accessories for every eventuality.  There's a drill with a brass collar and a screw, again with collar, for .40 - .45 cal, .50 to .54 cal, and ..58 to .62 cal.  I made a yoke with two hooks that is screwed to the tree at waist height so you can hook the handle on the tree, and simply walk backwards.  It has saved the day dozens of times, though of course, I've never used it myself...he he he!

[Michigan Flinter]

 My friend makes dischargers using a fire extinguisher and adding a grease hypodermic needle to the discharge  hose .works great for either flint or cussion guns. he fills it with co/2 . We took one down to the York shoot forgot it  went with Robin Warner to Indiana next stop Allen coons then to friendship and finely back home to Michigan don't know how many times it was used but still has lots of gas left in it.

[WadePatton]

...The thought is that the powder residue does not embed in hard steel as it does in brass, thus becoming a lap. ...
Dennis

That's how lapping is done (intentional lapping), something has to be soft enough to embed/adhere an abrasive to do the cutting. 

Flexing in the middle! Thanks for that info for sure.