First Build - Chambers Early Lancaster Pennsylvania Rifle

[Kingsburyarms]

Hi all - been hovering around on the forums for a while (Stalking?) and after 30 years of making scale model airplanes, shooting centerfire and rimfire rifles, trap, skeet and sporting clays, After restoring M1 Garands and Carbines, I got bit by the flintlock bug. So after a ton of research, I dove right into the lake without any swimming lessons and started a Chambers kit.  I began around December, and just working nights and (some) weekends, I have gotten to this point. I am using Jim's last design as a pattern (yes, well above my pay grade) but it's a great reference and has so much detail to look at, it makes it easier for me to visualize what to do next.

Read most of the books out there on building so why not jump in. Here are some photos of it's current stage, and of course, any comments, feedback, or questions, I'm happy to take, receive or help in any way I can. 

What I'm trying to go for:

http://s1030.photobucket.com/user/jon335sburyarms/media/DSCN8170_Chambers_half_zpsaunxlclg.jpg.html?sort=3&o=49

Where Im At:

http://s1030.photobucket.com/user/jon335sburyarms/media/IMG_9384_zpsqdsnxzgh.jpg.html?sort=3&o=33

Feel free to just click through the photo album as they are all of the rifle. ( I will learn to post actual pictures here in the future)

I have aligned the lock and marked the barrel touch hole liner, used Acraglas Gel to embed the breach half and tang area (including the lock and lock plate), and I am just working on the barrel and tailpipe alignment and pinning. Using Velcro wraps to keep everything aligned as I build. a lot of finish work to do - but it's a start.

Thank you all for your posts, your insight and your input as I have learned a great deal just watching all the other builds.

Jon

[Kingsburyarms]

Just trying to embed images - and I figured it out - Easier than posting links -

[oldtravler61]

Kingsbury looking good so far. Like the curl in your stock,side plate an trigger guard coming along well.

[Jerry V Lape]

Looks pretty good to me.  There are some things you haven't gotten to yet that you may not be aware of:

From the side of the tang downward, that surface should be flat or almost flat at about the same angle as the barrel flats.

The transitions around the barrel at the breech need careful study.  I messed this up on my first build. 

The thickness of the wood at both the upper edge of the forend and at the edge of the ramrod groove needs rounded to almost a knife edge.  And the ramrod groove should expose more than half of the rods diameter to get a nice slim look. 

[thimble rig]

Kingsbury awesome job so far.Keep up the good work.You gotta love those Chambers kits worth every penny.

[Kingsburyarms]

Looks pretty good to me.  There are some things you haven't gotten to yet that you may not be aware of:

From the side of the tang downward, that surface should be flat or almost flat at about the same angle as the barrel flats.

The transitions around the barrel at the breech need careful study.  I messed this up on my first build. 

The thickness of the wood at both the upper edge of the forend and at the edge of the ramrod groove needs rounded to almost a knife edge.  And the ramrod groove should expose more than half of the rods diameter to get a nice slim look. 

Fantastic feedback - I will take a look at your suggestions and make sure I get it right. I saw the ramrod not "seat" into the groove - and you are spot on - the rod was too deep into the stock - I appreciate everyones feedback, as you have been there, and I an flying on instruments and reading books. It really helps me to hear how things are done so I (we) all get better -

Thanks again for looking, and I will work on the detailed items you mentioned -

Jon

[Kingsburyarms]

Kingsbury looking good so far. Like the curl in your stock,side plate an trigger guard coming along well.

Thanks - the curl is very pronounced - Jim Chambers and team did an exceptional job finding the "right" stock material. After sanding the tang area, I noticed the strong curl in that area - will make a striking finish. Will need help on the Aqua Fortis and finish so I don't over power the carving and details - May ask a few (hundred) questions along the way to make sure I don't mess it up -

[Jerry V Lape]

Here is a photo of an original that I found useful in understanding the shaping around the tang and barrel junction.

[Kingsburyarms]

Jerry - Thank you - Great angle - mine looks rounded now, I'll re-shape it like you mentioned, more like the flat on the barrel. I can see it slightly rounds into the barrel at the meeting point. I'll probably shape it as I do the carvings -

[Cory Joe Stewart]

Looking good.  You certainly have done your homework. 

Coryjoe

[Kingsburyarms]

Thank you, appreciate all the feedback - - Added the Pin lugs to the barrell and shaped them to fit the stock. I lightly clamp the stock on the workbench (out of the way) to ensure this -15 degree weather and very low humidity does not change the wood shape while the barrell is out of the stock inlet. Enjoying this kit.

[smylee grouch]

Looks like your doing some quality work. Keep it up and please keep us posted. It looks to be a nice rifle from here with the quality parts and a real nice stock.

[Kingsburyarms]

Thanks Smylee, Appreciate the support and the feedback - I did "upgrade" the Maple stock for more curl, and the byproduct of that (as most of you know) the grain kind of has two directions, so it can chip out and be a little temperamental at times. Sharp tools are a must. From my days of building models, I used a lot of Dremel and power tools, I'm trying (my best) to use carving tools and files for this (and future) projects. I do find my way back (falling off the wagon?) to grabbing the Dremel to adjust the Lock inlet spacing or to fit the trigger plate, where a file or chisel would do the same. I do need to learn how to continue to sharpen everything - all the time, as the slightest "dull moment" equals a rough edge or a "chip out" on the wood.

I have never tried any other kit so I can not judge or compare, but I followed all the advice I could find on this forum and jumped in to the Chambers kit, and it has all the elements to be successful as a first kit if you have some mechanical/model/woodworking under your belt.

The classes would be stellar to attend, as that plus a complete kit would make a fine rifle.

Off to cut out the rear sight, the front sight and to drill the pins for the barrel.

This is addicting...   

[BJH]

As curly as that piece of maple is, it is important to slot your barrel under lugs. With each wave curl adds grain structure that will lengthen or shorten your forend noticeably as humidity changes.  Being a winter build I would allow a good 1/16 or so of barrel extending past your nose cap, maybe a bit more.  BJH

[Kingsburyarms]

Awesome advice and oh so timely, I have just finished creating the notches in the stock, and instead of a straight drill hole in the tabs, I will create a slot in the tab before drilling - holding the barrel tight to the stock, but allowing a "compression" and "expansion" flex in the forend.

I have 1/8 inch of the barrel extending past the end cap now = so I think I am OK there - Pictures to follow.

Keep it coming - this is number 1 - so I am looking for all feedback for a successful outcome -

Jon

[JCurtiss]

That's a nice looking rifle and a really nice looking vice!!!

[Kingsburyarms]

$59.00 at Lowes with a coupon - Love the 3 axis of the vice - I replaced the steel vice "grips" with pieces of Oak from a stair riser board bought for $7.00 (just two sunken Hex bolts hold them on so I have about 20 replacements made from the riser with my band saw - break one up - replace it and you are good to go)  - so I don't crush anything I put in there (the oak takes up the flex and has better gripping power) - and the Oak is replaceable. From barrels to brass - nothing get's any marks on them.

[Jim Kibler]

Looks like your taking care to do some good clean work.  Nice job.

Jim

[Kingsburyarms]

Thanks Jim - I have your kit on order (we spoke briefly on the phone the other day) and I look forward to building it - and I appreciate all the feedback - Steep learning curve in the beginning, but when it "clicks" then things become more apparent.  I am writing a lot of notes and taking hundreds of pictures as some day, if this turns out, I can post a "beginners guide to building a flintlock". So many books out there from self-forging barrels to carving, that I'm not looking for a shortcut, just the path to build one good rifle, then spread my wings into more details, more classic build styles and more complex design.

I love the kit I have, yet there is no manual to say Step 1:..... (as there are 100 ways to do it) so I am on my own (with all of your help). Just thinking out loud, but an illustrated guide would help me know what's next and what to expect. Even completing a simple kit adds confidence to go again and make more...

Thoughts? 

 

[BJH]

I find it best to drill the pin holes through the stock, and barrel lugs at the same time. I would think a pre slotted lug might be a drill bit breaker. Then I simply drill another hole on either side of the hole in the barrel lug, and use a jewlers saw to connect them to make the slot. Then dress the slot so the pin can pass snugly. BJH

[Kingsburyarms]

I put off the stock and barrell drilling and played over the last few days cleaning up and tuning the lock.... Maybe it's the "one chance to get it right" nerves on the barrel. I'll take the plunge this weekend. I made a hardwood (South African Rosewood) or "Bubinga" flint to test and to tune the lock.

[Kingsburyarms]

Before I post more images of the rifle, I just wanted to thank David Price. I played "hooky" yesterday and drove up to his shop in New Hampshire. First, you will never meet such an friendly and caring individual. We talked for hours about all of the incredible rifles he has put together, from Swivel breach rifles to small "grandchildren" rifles. We talked carving, sharpening, inletting, engraving, you name it, we covered it - As a rookie, it was magic to see how things are done compared to books and videos. To hold, see, measure, touch, and experience a dozen (or three dozen) rifles is better than reading 10 books on building. 

A huge "Thank You" to David Price, and this forum for "covering my back" as I (and many other beginners) build our rifles and continue this craft.

It will be a day I will never forget.

Jon

[thimble rig]

That was the best decision you made right there going to talk to someone that knows what their doing and can see first hand what a rifle looks like and feels like.Good job.

[Telgan]

David is worth his weight in gold - And then some .....

[Kingsburyarms]

More pictures, cleaned up the upper stock area, Based on ideas and insights on how the transition from the stock to the upper barrel tapers to almost parallel to the barrel side. Drew in my carving design to see how it would look - we are getting there...