Kibler .36 Walnut Kit

[Squirrel pizza]

It's too bad you messed up at this stage of the build, but since the rifle is obviously ruined by the ramrod debacle, my advice to you would be get another kit and start over. If it helps, I'd be willing to pay as much as $50 for the one you destroyed. There might be a part or two I could salvage.

[Kingsburyarms]

Thank you for your very kind offer - yet I have consulted with some if the finest builders and craftsmen and collectors, and I think I have one chance of saving this build - If, and only if, I extract (very carefully) the rod and taper it on the OTHER end, (I have not tapered it at all yet) and place it back into the thimbles with the "working end" toward the lock, I think I will be O.K. Worst case is no one (from a great distance) will see the error, and only we will know about it.

If this does not work out, I will PM you on your offer,

Jon

[Squirrel pizza]

I understand giving it that old college try. But my experts say it can't be done. The thing about those "oops"are you will always know it's there. And it will gnaw on your brain like a termite. But seriously, you do good work. I'm sure it will be a piece to be proud of when you're finished. And I'm looking forward to seeing her with finish. Keep posting the pics.

[thimble rig]

Shame on you Squirrel.Trying to get that fine rifle for 50 bucks.I have to agree with you on that he does some fine work.Ilike following his posts.I got one  made from curly maple.I would like to see one of cherry or curly ash.Im going to get another one of theses kits.

[Squirrel pizza]

Shame on me? I was trying to help! Ok $75 if it makes you feel better. But really, for my tastes I love that rifle in a dark walnut. The lines of the rifle are so clean. Without all the froo-froo of silver inlay or engraved patch boxes, which I like on some rifles, I think these are beautiful. There's something honest about them. No frill, utilitarian but graceful.

[Kingsburyarms]

Squirrel...

My most sincere and humble apologies, but the reversal of the ramrod procedure was successful, and I am again, back on track for a successful completion of this project.

I will be proud to shoot it with you, but I have to deny you your proposal for kind and most generous offer.

If you would not be insulted, pictures and next steps in the build will follow - with your interest in the forethought of the build.. 

Jon

[Kingsburyarms]

Let's stick to Flintlocks...

[Ky-Flinter]

Yes, let's.

-Ron

[Kingsburyarms]

Tapered the ramrod and stained it with a dark red Oak. I think the color will compliment the Walnut just fine. The taper fits perfectly into the hole, with just about 1 inch proud past the barrel. I kept all my pins (Barrel, Thimbles, and trigger guard) long so it is easy to pull out while building, I will shorten them and blue them when I do the final install. I found that if I made them the "right size" I opened up the holes in the wood with a punch too often.

Here she is, all assembled, and now I will take it all apart, finish polishing the exposed metal pieces and "Grey/Blue" them, I think I will finish the stock without stain, just a rich natural Walnut. The grain is so good on this piece that it will have a nice finish. I'll post the steps as I go.

[Mike Brooks]

Change out that toe plate yet?

[Kingsburyarms]

I would - Any examples of a "Proper" Toe Plate I can use?  - The area was used to repair the lower stock, so I can't go without - but I would be proud to make it more Authentic - I saw these images in my search, and tried to match them in my own way - Happy for anyone to show me some examples to go by - It's not to late, I'm still finishing the metal, so the stock is not finished yet.

Jim K - I would also like your $0.02 on this as well - -

[Mike Brooks]

No fancy finial, just straight across or mimicking the trigger guard finial. But then I get beat up for being traditional so do what you want....

[thimble rig]

I wonder how it would look with a big long toe plate up to the trigger guard.

[Pete G.]

How about something similar to an over the comb tang? Full width for a couple of inches, then about 1/4" wide to the TG.

[G. Elsenbeck]

OK - Back to the build.... I pulled the barrel and opened (elongated) the pin holes to allow for wood expansion and contraction, then I installed the front and rear sites, and the trigger guard (with a VERY rough filing as a start). All  pins and parts are in, assemble the lock again tonight to test everything, then polish all metal and prep for finish.




Enjoying your pictorial as I'm just starting on mine, finally.  I notice how nicely you elongated the holes on your barrel lug, but I noticed when installing the barrel with mine I noted that they need to be filed down so they would be flush with the ramrod channel, or am I missing something.  I also see the rr tubes need to be filed down on the flange to be flush to the inside barrel channel, correct?





 

[Robby]

[galudwig]

I'm finishing up a Whitson-inspired rifle right now (slab built, not from Jim's kit).  My toe plate and patchbox are modeled directly from those on one of the original Whitson guns shown on Jim's website though.

[Kingsburyarms]

Great examples - Thank you - -  -

G. Elsenbeck: Yes, I did need to file down the barrel lugs to both fit in the ramrod channel and to allow the ramrod to enter the ram rod hole - it hit the lug closest to the lock, just a little filing and they became flush with the wood, and everything fit perfectly. You can see how much needs to be removed by in-letting the barrel and looking at the front lug - it sits about 1/16 of an inch into the ramrod channel, a good indication on how much to remove.

The Thimbles "tabs" also needed to be filed down to "seat" into the slots. I used a chisel to "square" each end of the pre cut thimble slots so the thimble sits flush with the stock groove.  as I said before, the thimbles were spot welded together, and when drilling the pin holes, they went right through the spot weld. Just be careful if you are using a hand drill in the stock, it will "float" around the weld and open up the hole in the wood (Take the thimble out and drill separately) once you mark the hole location.

[Kingsburyarms]

I'm finishing up a Whitson-inspired rifle right now (slab built, not from Jim's kit).  My toe plate and patchbox are modeled directly from those on one of the original Whitson guns shown on Jim's website though.

NICE - Thank you - Very clean and concise...

[galudwig]

I'm finishing up a Whitson-inspired rifle right now (slab built, not from Jim's kit).  My toe plate and patchbox are modeled directly from those on one of the original Whitson guns shown on Jim's website though.

NICE - Thank you - Very clean and concise...

Thank you! One interesting side note on that original Whitson rifle. The ramrod pipes were paneled with wedding bands on the ends.  They were made of coin silver...   

[Kingsburyarms]

I am going to change mine out to a 3 screw longer plate with a square end - It does look a lot better, and more simpler - Thank you - exactly the photo I needed.

Jon

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I like your toe plate...if it were mine, I'd leave it.  Very classy.

[Kingsburyarms]

Thank you! One interesting side note on that original Whitson rifle. The ramrod pipes were paneled with wedding bands on the ends.  They were made of coin silver...  

Don't tell Mike!!! -

[Dennis Glazener]

If you want unusual take at look at this toe plate on a Philip Gillespie NC rifle.

[Kingsburyarms]

That's NICE - The steel I used was the same that Jim used to pour his trigger guard and Butt Plate. If I can get a longer piece without too much difficulty, I will (Want the finish and color to match) if it's a hassle - I may just keep what I have - Torn between the two now -