Author Topic: Spring Steel Question (Read 5948 times)

QuanLoi · « **on:** October 06, 2016, 07:49:48 PM »

I just finished building the patch box for my current flintlock build. Could the steel (.040) that I used for the patchbox be cut and filed and used for the springs? I've made springs before (heat, quench, draw back) but the material I was using was marked "spring steel" purchased from Dixons. The steel used on the patch box was also purchased from Dixons...

Thanks for any answers...

John Archer · « **Reply #1 on:** October 06, 2016, 08:07:21 PM »

Without knowing exactly what you bought from Brownells....probably not....it's probably mild steel. You can test it by heating a piece red and quenching it and seeing if it hardens at all. My guess is it won't.

John.

Sidelock · « **Reply #2 on:** October 06, 2016, 09:49:19 PM »

Got any old worn out hack saw blades laying around? They are the best stuff I have found for making lid and catch springs from.

bob in the woods · « **Reply #3 on:** October 06, 2016, 10:28:04 PM »

I've got a couple of worn Victor traps that I've been cutting pieces off for a while. It's great stuff.

QuanLoi · « **Reply #4 on:** October 06, 2016, 11:31:28 PM »

Quote from: Sidelock on October 06, 2016, 09:49:19 PM

Got any old worn out hack saw blades laying around? They are the best stuff I have found for making lid and catch springs from.

Perfect answer!!

Thanks for the replies...

Dennis Glazener · « **Reply #5 on:** October 07, 2016, 01:41:34 AM »

The heavy steel bands that they use to bind up lumber is good for patch box springs etc I have used them for different types of flat springs just as they are. I use a nail set to punch a holes in them for screw holes.

Get them for free from Lowes and Home Depot if you get there before they throw them away. There are at least 2 different widths and the wide ones are much stronger than the narrower ones.
Dennis

mossyhorn · « **Reply #6 on:** October 07, 2016, 04:58:36 AM »

Dennis how do you heat and shape them for a patch box spring like a mountain rifle patch box and also do you quench and temper them like in the tutorial or use another method. I am wanting to make a more simple spring than in the tutorial section.maybe a straight spring with slight curve.
Thanks Mossy

Dennis Glazener · « **Reply #7 on:** October 07, 2016, 05:28:37 AM »

The ones I have used have all been flat or slightly bent. One I made for a early Dickert has a short 90 degree bend on the end to catch on the stud thru the patch box lid. All I have cut with tin snips to correc6 size. Never had to heat treat one. Was told most of the straps are made of 1095 which is often used to make springs with.

For lids in SMR's I put one end under the back of the box and let it extend far enough under the lid for it to lift the lid open when you release the latch that hooked the lid shut. I do put a little upward bend in the flat spring.
Dennis

mossyhorn · « **Reply #8 on:** October 07, 2016, 06:10:48 AM »

Thanks that is what I was am wanting to do as I almost have the catch made with a concrete nail that has been heated and filed and just like tempering it I hope. Will be tempering the catch nail as illustrated in the tutorial section.

Elnathan · « **Reply #9 on:** October 07, 2016, 01:40:14 PM »

Quote from: Dennis Glazener on October 07, 2016, 05:28:37 AM

The ones I have used have all been flat or slightly bent. One I made for a early Dickert has a short 90 degree bend on the end to catch on the stud thru the patch box lid. All I have cut with tin snips to correc6 size. Never had to heat treat one. Was told most of the straps are made of 1095 which is often used to make springs with.

Back when I was in middle school I made a wooden flintlock using that kind of strap material for the springs. I think I just cut it with a hacksaw and bent it, as I certainly had no idea how to heat treat steel at that time.

Mark Elliott · « **Reply #10 on:** October 08, 2016, 01:21:10 AM »

I use 1/32" thick spring steel purchased from Brownells for my patchbox springs. That thin, you can cut it with aviation snips. You can use hacksaw blades, but be wary of bi-metal blades with a HSS edge. I only buy the bi-metal blades as the plain carbon steel blades don't last any time at all.

Scota4570 · « **Reply #11 on:** October 08, 2016, 03:58:12 AM »

A friend gave me two 5-gallon buckets of Victrola springs. He restores old wind up record players. Nice material for many uses.

curly · « **Reply #12 on:** October 26, 2016, 08:59:23 PM »

cheap old feeler gauges work well to.
Curly

mossyhorn · « **Reply #13 on:** October 27, 2016, 01:30:28 AM »

I went to the local farm supply store and cut off the end of a band from the fence post steel band and used the aviation snips to cut them to shape. Didn't even have to temper the springs and used it just as is after punching the screw hole and it worked great for my patch box lid spring. Just as Dennis suggested. By the way be very careful when snipping this material as I lost some skin and a good deal of blood when the steel recoiled when I cut the piece from the band.
Lucky I didn't get a deep cut!

Dennis Glazener · « **Reply #14 on:** October 27, 2016, 02:00:45 AM »

Oops, Sorry Mossyhorn I should have mentioned that!

I pick up different sizes for future use, makes good scrapers too.
Dennis

JCKelly · « **Reply #15 on:** October 28, 2016, 06:19:34 PM »

I don't entirely understand why craftsmen who are going to put many hours work into a spring (or whatever) try to make it out of scrap steel.

Don't we all have enough trouble heat treating a known steel, without adding the interesting effects of an unknown composition?

I guess it helps relate to them there bib-overall guys in Cline and in Dillin.
Come to think of it, as an Old Gun guy I suppose I do understand.
As a cold-blooded engineer it makes me cringe.

mossyhorn · « **Reply #16 on:** October 28, 2016, 08:48:09 PM »

Yep as a matter of fact I'm a bib overall guy "got them on now" LOL! The challenge and fun for me anyway is to do things the old way in this fast paced world we live in and I don't have "spring steel" readily available without ordering it and when something presents itself that will work just as well for my needs then I enjoy the innovation method of the build. After all that's probably how this evolved to a great extent. Now if I were bldg for a client I could be more judicious of my choices of materials but since I'm new at this and doing it for myself and really I enjoy the innovation or no fuss part of the build.

JCKelly · « **Reply #17 on:** October 31, 2016, 11:48:36 PM »

Nordnecker · « **Reply #18 on:** November 01, 2016, 02:19:44 PM »

I certainly agree that using a known steel with documented heat treating instructions has its advantages, but- I've never done it. I've forged many springs over the years and some were successful and some were not. I've been collecting scrap iron and steel for a long time. Some of the nicest tool steel I've ever worked with is a hex shaped bar that My Gr grandfather used to use for oyster dredge teeth. I have to say I've had very good luck with cut nails as spring and tool stock. But the spring I am most proud of is actually made of Osage orange. It has been in service in my work van console for about 5 years now. It works much better than the factory made latch in my pick-up truck.

Hungry Horse · « **Reply #19 on:** November 01, 2016, 03:59:44 PM »

All I can say, is keep your eyes open at all times, for gun making material. It often turns up where you least expect it. I was throwing out an old wind up microwave carousel the other day, when I let it slip from my grip, and dropped it on the concrete. The plastic was brittle with age, and shattered. Inside was a beautiful flat wound clock spring. Since I was going to have to make a lift spring, for a patch box on a rifle I I've been working on anyway, I decided to try some of my new free material. It is great. And though it feels too light for the task, when cut in short pieces, is nearly perfect.

Hungry Horse

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Author Topic: Spring Steel Question (Read 5948 times)