Author Topic: Good old boiled linseed oil finish  (Read 14485 times)

g2608671@verizon.net

  • Guest
Good old boiled linseed oil finish
« on: March 19, 2017, 03:30:37 AM »
I am reconditioning a Pedersoli Kentucky and applying boiled linseed oil to the stock and wondering what experience/s are out there that folks are willing to share relative to the process and results.
As of now I have on 3 coats and there are parts of the stock that the oil still absorbs into and others that it does not.  The stock is made of Maple and I stripped it of its factory finish prior to applying the first coat of linseed oil.
So far my approach is to apply a thin coat of oil and then hand rub until the oil disappears or settles into a dull sheen.  Then let things dry for a day before doing it all over again.

Offline jerrywh

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 8885
    • Jerrywh-gunmaker- Master  Engraver FEGA.
Re: Good old boiled linseed oil finish
« Reply #1 on: March 19, 2017, 03:40:16 AM »
 Many years ago I did a couple of stock with it and they came out beautiful. It is normally a very slow process. It isn't a very good outdoor finish but it does look nice and everybody ought to do at least one so they will know better the next time. I don't think it ever really dries completely.
Nobody is always correct, Not even me.

Offline Hungry Horse

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5565
Re: Good old boiled linseed oil finish
« Reply #2 on: March 19, 2017, 04:00:56 AM »
If you didn't use an epoxy stripper you didn't get the sealer off the stock. I have done a bunch of refinishingof Italian replicas, and what ever they seal them with can't be touched with regular paint stripper. The new finish will just rub off wherever you don't get the sealer off.

  Hungry Horse

Offline Scota4570

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2395
Re: Good old boiled linseed oil finish
« Reply #3 on: March 19, 2017, 04:14:08 AM »
In the last couple of weeks I finished two stocks.  The first was walnut.  I put a sealer coat of rattle can lacquer sanding sealer after the stain.  I sanded it back to the wood with 320.   I then applied some old thickened hardware store BLO. Nasty old stuff than needed a poke with a screwdriver to get to the liquid.   IT is like thick honey.  I let it sit on the wood for several days.  This thick stuff did not run off or absorb into leave dry spots.    Once it was very gummy I cut it back with Scotchbrite and some real turpentine.  Once I was down to wood I rubbed it down with a clean cloth.  It turned out fine and looks old timie.  I though I was going to need some wax or slackum but I did not.

The second one was a maple long rifle stock.  I sanded to 320, then AF, then dye stain, then lacquer stain with some lacquer in it, then the gummy BLO.   This one I let set only overnight then rubbed it with a cloth.  It looks very appropriate.   

It seems like the pre-polymerized BLO gave the process a head start.  I am way to old and impatient to lovingly rub countless coats of BLO into a stock.  Basically, that is only filling the grain the hard way.  In both cases the wood was filled and had the subdued shine of a BLO finish and, most importantly it  smelled "right". 

It might be worth experimenting with deliberately letting BLO get thick before using it ? 

Offline Kermit

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3099
Re: Good old boiled linseed oil finish
« Reply #4 on: March 19, 2017, 05:39:30 AM »
BLO needs UV exposure to "kick." Lots of sunshine between coats.
"Anything worth doing is worth doing slowly." Mae West

Offline flehto

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3335
Re: Good old boiled linseed oil finish
« Reply #5 on: March 19, 2017, 06:46:32 AM »
My first build had a BLO finish and it looked good. Took the LR deer hunting and sat in the rain  wiping the gooey mess off w/ my red hanky. Once I was down to the bare wood,  the rifle could be handled w/o messing up my hands.

First and last time BLO was used. Don't think the original builders used this stuff w/ its long drying times....they wouldn't make any money. So many much better finishes out there.....Fred
« Last Edit: March 19, 2017, 02:28:49 PM by flehto »

Offline Mike Brooks

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 13415
    • Mike Brooks Gunmaker
Re: Good old boiled linseed oil finish
« Reply #6 on: March 19, 2017, 02:23:05 PM »
I have never found anything "good"  about "good old BLO".
NEW WEBSITE! www.mikebrooksflintlocks.com
Say, any of you boys smithies? Or, if not smithies per se, were you otherwise trained in the metallurgic arts before straitened circumstances forced you into a life of aimless wanderin'?

Offline bob in the woods

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4555
Re: Good old boiled linseed oil finish
« Reply #7 on: March 19, 2017, 02:52:02 PM »
I prefer a linseed oil based varnish . 

g2608671@verizon.net

  • Guest
Re: Good old boiled linseed oil finish
« Reply #8 on: March 19, 2017, 03:31:47 PM »
Thanks folks - some good and some not so good experiences with this stuff.

Now for the follow up question.  How should I approach the removal of the BLO that I have on the stock now and what would be  recommended as an alternative stock finish at this point?

Not trying to complicate things just exploring the refinishing terrain (so to speak).

  :)

ron w

  • Guest
Re: Good old boiled linseed oil finish
« Reply #9 on: March 19, 2017, 03:57:34 PM »
you can a bit of Japan Drier to BLO to speed up the cure and get the BLO to the "rub-in" stage quicker.  the hardest part of finishing a stock with it is the waiting for it to dry. most guys the use it a lot build a drying box. which is simply a plywood box big enough for the stock with light bulb in it for a little heat. if you look in older books and articles written by the older famous high power gunstock makers, there are a few different recipes of different elements added to the BLO that speed up the grain fill. those guys knew what worked and what didn't.  most problems with BLO come from not rubbing it in good enough and/or not letting it dry completely between coats. the worst thing you can do, is hot coat it, where a new coat is applied over a not completely dry coat. that is most likely what caused the mess on fleto's stock in the rain. for good finish, you need to rub the BLO in until it feels like there is nothing on the surface of the wood, then let it dry absolutely dry, before applying another coat. it should reach a condition where it starts to build up on the surface and then be burnished back, removing what is not in the pores of the wood. wet or dry paper or fine steel wool with 50/50 mixture of turps/paint thinner and BLO for a lubricant is best. you must use a lubricant when burnishing because without it, all you will do is heat up the BLO and create a gooey layer of finish that all the drier and evaporates have been leached out.  when this happens the BLO won't dry completely for months,.... sometimes even years. the trick is to use short periods of burnishing followed by a good and frequent wiping off of the sluice produced . it isn't tricky to use BLO,... but you have to follow all the steps to produce a good finish. cutting corners to speed up the process always results in problems.  something I discovered recently is using typical spar varnish that has sat in an open can or jar, until it is the consistency of thick honey, or even a little thicker. I discovered this quit by accident, actually. I had just finished making a stock for myself and found an old jar with just a bit of old thick spar varnish in the bottom of the jar. I gave it a try by rubbing it on a scrap of maple and it turn out great. so I finished the stock with it and honestly I like the finish more than anything else I ever used. I have no idea how long that spar was sitting on the shelf, but I do know it was a long time, because it was way in the back of my varnish storage cabinet.  it was pretty much like BLO with Jap drier in it, that has half cured before being used, or something like a thick French Polish.  I assume it would take a long time to reproduce. small amounts in a can and heated up might speed the process, I haven't tried it yet , but it surely did produce a nice finish that had that classic feel of filled pores and good hard surface, but not built up. 

g2608671@verizon.net

  • Guest
Re: Good old boiled linseed oil finish
« Reply #10 on: March 19, 2017, 04:04:57 PM »
Thanks for the extensive and very informative reply.  Japan Dryer is on today's shopping list.

ron w

  • Guest
Re: Good old boiled linseed oil finish
« Reply #11 on: March 19, 2017, 04:18:11 PM »
most quality spar varnished are simply BLO, Jap drier and a little alkaloid and uv protectors added to make it build better and reflect UV rays. it makes a perfect rubbing medium for stock finishing.  just dip your fingers in it and rub it in until your fingers start sticking to the stock. let it dry and repeat until the finish starts to build on the surface. once the whole stock has a slightly built up finish, let it dry for about a week and cut it back with paint thinner and a scothbrite pad, wiping the stock off frequently. work in small areas with good overlap. what great about this type of finish, is that you can add to areas that aren't built up well enough at any time without changing how the finish looks and you can easily add more finish at any time or fix dents and scratches with having to refinish the whole stock.

Offline Elnathan

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1773
Re: Good old boiled linseed oil finish
« Reply #12 on: March 19, 2017, 04:55:53 PM »
I use hardware store BLO on stuff like axe handles, chisel handles, and other things that I either don't want a slick finish and/or don't care to put a more expensive or time-consuming finish on. General procedure is to put a thick-ish coat on, followed by two or three applications of as thin a coat as I can get while still adequately covering everything. In between coats I let the piece lay in the sun for a week, turning once a day.

So, in sum, it takes me three weeks or a month to put an adequate finish on with BLO. Limited application for this oil, I'd say.

It still usually takes six months or so for the finish to stop smelling, at which point I'd consider it fully dry.
A man can never have too much red wine, too many books, or too much ammunition -  Rudyard Kipling

Offline smallpatch

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4107
  • Dane Lund
Re: Good old boiled linseed oil finish
« Reply #13 on: March 19, 2017, 05:22:44 PM »
When you add the driers and such to BLO, you get oil varnish.
BLO by itself is not a finish.  It is an oil, made from flax seed.

Is this horse dead yet?
In His grip,

Dane

Offline JCKelly

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1434
Re: Good old boiled linseed oil finish
« Reply #14 on: March 19, 2017, 06:16:17 PM »
You might want to consider avoiding Hardware Store "boiled linseed oil"

Actual pure, cold pressed, linseed oil is found at your local artist's supply store. Avoid anything but real linseed oil, not boiled, not fancied up in any way.
Cost is about that of a commercial stock finish. If you have no nearby artist's supply try -  http://www.dickblick.com/

If you wish to thin it, dilute with actual, real "pure gum spirits of turpentine" (good) as opposed to "steam distilled" (junk containing free water). The real stuff also helps linseed oil bind with oxygen, which is what it does when it "drys". BTW as it drys it expands slightly, which will strengthen the adherence (to canvas, at least) Real turp is pricey, also at art supply.

Ignore the Artist's squirrely politics. This field does have some five & a half centuries of more-or-less recorded experience with the behavior of linseed oil, in its various forms. Some works of oil on canvas have survived for centuries. Some, like 19th century American, have not, and are studied to further the knowledge 

Can't say that this is any better than good stock finishes available to day, but if you want a linseed oil finish this is the way to go. Yeah, takes a long time to dry. Sun light does help. Beyond that, I can only say my own Recreational Drug of choice is Jamesons.

Offline tddeangelo

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 221
Re: Good old boiled linseed oil finish
« Reply #15 on: March 19, 2017, 06:22:17 PM »
Isn't Linseed oil a fire hazard? From what I've heard, it'll generate heat as it decomposes/dries, and rags with it on them are fire hazards to have around.

True or no? I've never worked with the stuff, but hearing the above gave me some serious pause to ever wanting to deal with it.

Offline bob in the woods

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4555
Re: Good old boiled linseed oil finish
« Reply #16 on: March 19, 2017, 06:29:46 PM »
I use and like the oil varnish from " Tried and True".   Oily rags go into a metal can outside the shop, or else I just toss them in the wood stove .  This varnish dries well and stands up to the outdoor use my guns get. A major plus is that it doesn't contain any toxic ingredients.

Offline Hungry Horse

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5565
Re: Good old boiled linseed oil finish
« Reply #17 on: March 19, 2017, 06:34:39 PM »
Smallpatch;
 You have put in print what I have been screaming at my computer screen. I see this time and again on this and other sites. As in most things you guys  must follow the instructions. BLO, is not a finish!!!! By itself. If you don't add Japan drier, reboil the hardware store linseed oil, or use artist boiled linseed oil, you aren't going to get a serviceable finish. Many of the linseed oil based finishes used by the old timers also had bees wax melted into it, and it was applied hot. I use this finish all the time. No it doesn't wear like the paint store plastic junk, but done right it doesn't turn to goo in the rain either. I believe applied as the old timers did it, the wood doesn't become dry and brittle, and doesn't obsorb moisture and swell up.

  Hungry Horse



Offline satwel

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 257
Re: Good old boiled linseed oil finish
« Reply #18 on: March 19, 2017, 06:35:18 PM »
Yes, linseed oil is a fire hazard. When my father-in-law was young, he worked for his uncle, as a commercial painter and floor refinisher. He told me he once saw a rag a co worker had stuffed in his back pocket ignite from the linseed oil he had wiped up with it.

Offline JCKelly

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1434
Re: Good old boiled linseed oil finish
« Reply #19 on: March 19, 2017, 06:41:57 PM »
Yes, linseed oil "drys" by reacting with oxygen in the air to form a tight film. That reaction gives off heat. If you pile your oil-soaked rags in a corner, one day they will light up all by themselves. A big pile of stable refuse will do the same, but some people still like horses.

Surely this would not cause you to avoid linseed oil? Hardware warned me about this same danger with my favorite commercial deck finish. Just treat your waste rags appropriately.

In those truly Ancient times when I was in grade school, standard practice over the summer was for a custodian to swab our wood floors with linseed oil. He knew what to do with the rags.

Heh, heh.

Dad was a school superintendent & was friends with the Dean of the State Teachers College in a nearby town. Dean needed new buildings but was having no success in his negotiations with Harrisburg. Dagnabit, one summer the custodian forgot and stored those oily rags in a closet.

Dean got his new buildings. No, no one got in trouble.

The Bad Old Days.




















Offline Hungry Horse

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5565
Re: Good old boiled linseed oil finish
« Reply #20 on: March 19, 2017, 06:43:38 PM »
And, yes if you throw the rags in the corner of your shop they will burn you shop down. Linseed oil is notorious for spontaneous combustion. In fact it was a common tool of arsenists in the past.
 But, it not only was a common wood finish, but, was also used as a finish for forged iron. In fact Southern mountain rifles are known to have had such a metal finish on occasion.

  Hungry Horse

Offline tddeangelo

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 221
Re: Good old boiled linseed oil finish
« Reply #21 on: March 19, 2017, 07:04:21 PM »
I guess I should start a new thread so as not to hijack this one. I've never used BLO, nor do I know what the heck to do with disposal/clean-up for it. But that's a different topic.

I've just started acquiring pieces for my first whack at gun building. In non-longrifle endeavors in the past, I've used TruOil on modern gun stocks instead, and been pleased with results, but I wasn't after anything other than a hard, durable finish to protect the wood.


Offline WadePatton

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5303
  • Tennessee
Re: Good old boiled linseed oil finish
« Reply #22 on: March 19, 2017, 08:01:16 PM »
Anyone really interested in a BLO finish should seek and find the previous writings of Dan Phariss on this forum.  I take his word to be experienced and authoritative on the subject of real BLO.  He has posted it many times.

Oh wait, for your convenience-one of several: http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=1168.msg174855#msg174855



Hold to the Wind

Offline Kermit

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3099
Re: Good old boiled linseed oil finish
« Reply #23 on: March 19, 2017, 08:05:24 PM »
BLO has company in the spontaneous combustion department. ANY rag, paper towel, sawdust, shavings that have absorbed oils or solvents need to get the heck out of your shop/house. You probably want an oily waste disposal can that keeps the oxygen at bay. Fire needs three things: heat, fuel, oxygen. Remove any one of those and your chances of being safe are increased. Also notice that the cans designed for oily waste disposal are marked "Empty every night" or some such. They are for temporary storage until they can be removed from the premises. Submerging in water works. You may want an airtight metal can such as these:

https://www.amazon.com/Justrite-Galvanized-Steel-Waste-Safety/dp/B0076NILQE
"Anything worth doing is worth doing slowly." Mae West

Offline WadePatton

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5303
  • Tennessee
Re: Good old boiled linseed oil finish
« Reply #24 on: March 19, 2017, 08:20:38 PM »
Machine oils are not the same as finishing oils.  I find some folks confused by that (non of us I'm sure).  This is why mechanics shops and machine shops do not spontaneously combust despite piles and bins of "oily rags" generated week after week.

Also, for wood finishing products I have a device that takes care of them the day I've used them. In cool weather it is the wood-stove, in warm weather it is the burn-barrel.  Either way, the rags get what they want and lose all their spontaneity.      ;)
Hold to the Wind