Good old boiled linseed oil finish

[Dennis Glazener]

Years ago Earl Lanning gave me an old time recipe using linseed oil and turpentine. Use 2 parts linseed oil to 1 part turpentine and mix it in a pan. Put the pan on a very low heat (better to do this outside) find 2 or three old corroded lead roundballs and drop them in the pan. Let the mix "simmer" for several hours. The white lead corrosion is lead oxide and it was added as a dryer for the mix. I made a batch but instead of adding the lead oxide I put about 3 drops of Japan Dryer in mine. It made a really nice finish that dried quickly but I do not know how it stands up in inclement weather (I don't shoot/hunt in inclement weather . I kept the gun I used it on for several years but sold it later. As far as I know the new owner had no problems with the finish either.
Dennis

[g2608671@verizon.net]

Okay gents I want to say how much I appreciate all of the responses and I truly value the differences of opinion based on the diverse experiences.  I also understand the reference to the dead horse aspect and the pointer to previous messages relative to this topic.  And in all humility I apologize for dragging out a deceased equine and being unaware of previous, and apparently extensive, beatings of this same critter.  May he rest in peace and I will now digest the splendid suggestions that have been offered and decide on how to progress.  You guys are the best.
 

[Molly]

I have a number of rifles made by an old time life long builder who uses it and did use it on every one.  He swears by the stuff.  I have never noted any problems mentioned above.  The wood finish on all is most satisfactory EXCEPT it does not have any gloss.  I don't want them to look like a gym floor but still a slight sheen is desirable.  The do NOT have any sheen and in fact sometime seem to look dry and "lifeless".  I have tried to buff them with various waxes and it does not really seem to do any good so maybe you cannot put a gloss over the oil.  But I'm still not dissatisfied with the look.

I will say that in practicing with finishes for a current project on scraps of wood, I do not like working with the stuff at all and I have, esp after reading the comments posted, no intention of using it.  It may be a reasonable wood preservative but it seems to me it is NOT a wood finish.

[Scota4570]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/s3aspvv5dhrcn8s/IMG_3565.JPG?dl=0

This is the result of what I described in my post above.  It is completely dry to the touch.  It has been about a week.  It looks fine to me.  In my minds eye I don't see a Southern mountain gunsmith getting to fancy with the finish.  It seem appropriate for this rifle. 

As far as rainproof, no finish that is appropriate for a long rifle is rainproof (Fullerplast etc).  Besides, I don't hunt with my MLs in the rain. 

[g2608671@verizon.net]

That is beautiful.  But guess what - I tried the Japan Dryer and BOL and got something reminiscent to that old Steve McQueen movie "The Blob" looked like. 
Stripped it off, now going with Tru-Oil.  This stuff I have used before and have had outstanding results with.  Mission accomplished, experimentation phase complete.

And, I suppose it is a fire hazard so all rags with Tru Oil or BLO residue, have been soaked in water, are outside the shop in a metal can with a lid on it.  Going out in this weeks trash.

 

[Scota4570]

The Blob is your friend.  Cut back the stuff on the surface with steel wool or scotchbrite and some solvent, like turpentine.  Once the icky sticky is off the grain is mostly filled.  Polish wiht a cloth.  Assess what you got and possibly add a top coat.   That might be more oil or wax.

All stock finishing is these basic two steps, fill the grain then add the top coat.  Most anything that is oily and will eventually become a soild will do.  Drying oils, varnish, shellac, lacquer, epoxy .....all have those characteristics and will do the job. 

[TMerkley]

Here's a punch in the nose to the dead horse....

I use linseed oil and lemon oil mix a lot on hardwood floors, 50/50 or so.  It works really good on furniture and guns stocks. The lemon oil cuts the odor a little.  After doing the oil treatment, I use Johnson's paste wax to fill in a majority of the pores of the wood.  I don't want it gleaming in the sun, but it is enough along with the linseed oil to prevent moisture into the stock. Under the barrel and in the lock area, I poor in the full weight, thick linseed oil to protect from moisture and let it sit and dry.  I hunt, so it's a just another trick to the trade.  Also, make sure you treat the end grain under the butt plate, or you'll definitely have issues with your finish when it gets wet. 

[Hungry Horse]

Bees wax in the BLO gives it some degree of moisture resistance. It also creates a warm low luster sheen when new. Periododic reapplication ( which a big part of the original formula) will create a nice shine, and better durability. I have been tempted to try a harder natural wax in the formula, but haven't done so, and besides I have about five pounds of bees wax that I don't have to spend money for.
Original BLO finish instructions
First step
Sun thickened linseed oil ( from art supply store) this eliminates the need for Japan drier. 1/3 turpentine by volume. Heat mix until just good and warm ( a warming plate, or coffee cup warmer, is perfect). Mop it on until the stock won't take any more. Make sure it gets in all the recesses, and especially in the ramrod hole. Wipe it down to get the excess off and let it dry at least a few days. Direct sun will help as long as it doesn't get too hot.
 When the stock is dry to the touch, heat some more of the Lin/turp mix and add a chunk of bees wax about the size of a big marble, and let it melt. Apply it as you would Tru-oil with your fingertips, rubbed until it heats up, and begins to feel dry. If you need to make more, or add to your finish, cut back on the turpentine.
 The formula for keeping the finish in tact is as follows
 1 coat a week for a month
 1 coat a month for a year.
 1 coat a year for the rest of your life.

   Hungry Horse
 

[Joe S]

HH

The finish you described is not boiled linseed oil (BLO).  It is linseed oil with wax.  I mention this only in the interest of clarity of communication.  Boiled linseed oil is a very different product from your linseed oil and wax, and I think it’s worth the effort to be precise.

Boiled linseed oil means specifically oil that has been heated above about 325 degrees (F), and metal driers have been added to speed up polymerization of the linseed oil.  Originally, the metal drier was lead, added as lead carbonate.  The process Dennis described is true boiled linseed oil.  I suspect the name “boiled” comes from the bubbles that form around 300 degrees, as the lead disassociates from the carbonate.  It give the appearance of boiling, although that is not actually what is happening.  These days, the added metal driers are typically manganese and cobalt, which is what we call Japan drier.

One of the shortcomings of linseed oil is the drying time can be many months.  Partial polymerization by heat, or sun thickening, speeds drying time as you noted.

Some people find linseed oil finishes satisfactory, but the general run of history is that varnishes make better gun finishes.  A varnish is BLO (or other drying oil such as Tung oil) plus one or more resins.  The best resins are natural resins or gums.  Modern resins are typically urethane.  As you mentioned, a linseed oil finish needs maintenance.  A good varnish will last at least 250 years with no maintenance, and is much more water resistant.

[WyomingWhitetail]

I haven't used them on a gun as of yet but lately I have been using the tried and true line of linseed based finishes. I've used the varnish oil on my walnut counter tops as well as wooden arrows and it seems to hold up well. I've used the other two on furniture and house hold projects. As long as the directions are followed I have had no problems with drying. I plan to use primarily the varnish when I finish my rifle but I may topcoat with the oil and wax mixture.

[Hungry Horse]

Gordo;

 Artists sun thickened linseed oil says  sun thickened boiled linseed oil on the label.

  Hungry Horse

[Joe S]

HH

Linseed oil can be both boiled and sun thickened.  I make it that way myself.  First you heat it, then you set it on the windowsill in the sun for a few months.  Both heating and exposure to UV partially polymerize the oil and speed drying.  Adding a metal drying agent as well gives you the fastest drying oils.   Lead has to be cooked into the oil (hence “boiled oil”).  I don’t know about cobalt and manganese – I think people just add it cold.

In my experience, without a metal catalyst, oil that has simply been heated or only sun thickened will require weeks to months to dry.  With added lead dryer, I can get complete drying in 24 hours to maybe a week depending on environmental variables and the nature of the particular batch of varnish.  Personally, I only use varnish, for a variety of reasons.

WyomingWhitetail

Wax is a very good thing to put on a gunstock, but it is not immediately obvious to me that there would be any advantage in using a linseed oil / wax mixture.  The period correct wax finish is said to be turpentine and beeswax.  Lots of folks around here use Renaissance Wax.

I always put an annual heavy coat of wax on the bottom of the barrel, in the barrel channel and in the lock mortise.   That’s mostly because I’m a slob, and I always get water in those areas when I’m cleaning my guns.  I don’t bother to wax the outside, because my varnishes seem to be adequate protection for the amount of snow and rain I get into during the course of the year.

I have never used Tried and True varnish, so I looked it up.  They claim that it is polymerized (i.e. heated) linseed oil and pine resins, plus a catalyst, probably cobalt and manganese.  If that’s what it actually is, it is very close to the varnish available in the 1700’s.  Pine rosin and linseed oil is the cheapest and easiest varnish to make, plus it is extremely durable.  I would think that lots of guns must have been varnished with exactly that product.  We also call this stuff Danish Oil and spar varnish.  The only difference between Tried and True and a 1700’s varnish would be the choice of metal for the dryer.  If you ever go this route, beware.  There are lots of “Danish oils” and “spar varnishes” that are polyurethane based. 


Fat Joe

[WyomingWhitetail]

According to their site they don't use any mettalic driers. According to the label ingestion of large qaunties can cause slight discomfort , sounds like my campfire coffee.

[Joe S]

If they are getting short drying times without a metal dryer, I would say that is some rather remarkable process engineering.  I would sure like to know how that is donor.

[bob in the woods]

A thumbs up for the Tried and True varnish oil. I have used it on both instruments and gun stocks with success. I had to switch from using toxic finishes some 20+ years ago.

[ron w]

HH

The finish you described is not boiled linseed oil (BLO).  It is linseed oil with wax.  I mention this only in the interest of clarity of communication.  Boiled linseed oil is a very different product from your linseed oil and wax, and I think it’s worth the effort to be precise.

Boiled linseed oil means specifically oil that has been heated above about 325 degrees (F), and metal driers have been added to speed up polymerization of the linseed oil.  Originally, the metal drier was lead, added as lead carbonate.  The process Dennis described is true boiled linseed oil.  I suspect the name “boiled” comes from the bubbles that form around 300 degrees, as the lead disassociates from the carbonate.  It give the appearance of boiling, although that is not actually what is happening.  These days, the added metal driers are typically manganese and cobalt, which is what we call Japan drier.

One of the shortcomings of linseed oil is the drying time can be many months.  Partial polymerization by heat, or sun thickening, speeds drying time as you noted.

Some people find linseed oil finishes satisfactory, but the general run of history is that varnishes make better gun finishes.  A varnish is BLO (or other drying oil such as Tung oil) plus one or more resins.  The best resins are natural resins or gums.  Modern resins are typically urethane.  As you mentioned, a linseed oil finish needs maintenance.  A good varnish will last at least 250 years with no maintenance, and is much more water resistant.

  generally people who don't find a good BLO finish satisfactory are those who don't carry the process out far enough. most people fall short by deliberately speeding up the cure not letting the oil saturate and stabilize in the wood's porous surface, or not applying enough coats to properly fill the pores completely. when that happens the wood can and will take on moisture, which is exactly what the finish is supposed to prevent, or at least minimize to no effect on the wood's surface.
   I have found that good filling can be accomplished with a few well cured coats and then lightly sanding the surface with 600 grit wet or dry paper and BLO as a wet sanding medium, creating a slurry of the combine wood and BLO. when fully sanded wipe the remaining g slurry off the stock and let it cure. the pores will be completely filled at this point and there will be no need to build up the finish beyond that. then, a good application of Johnson's paste wax will give the stock just the right sheen. the key here is to give the applications of BLO enough time to dry completely before applying another coat. if you don't allow it to dry completely all you are doing is softening the previous coat and balancing out the finish as if you were putting on only one coat. the idea is to build the finish for the purpose of filling the pores and leaving a minimum of built up finish on the surface of the stock, by cutting the build up back to bare wood after each application. when done right the surface will be hard and feel almost like bare wood, but it will not absorb moisture. it's slow but simple process and the main fault is not letting each individual application absolutely completely cure before another application of BLO is done. like any other finish, whether it is a varnish, or any other wipe-on,  there are steps to follow and any deviation will result in a less than optimal result.

[davec2]

The absolute best, detailed, historically referenced and correctly chemically explained information I have ever found on the history, preparation, and use of linseed oil as a finish is contained in a book put together by William Knight (Mad Monk) and William Mende.  (Staining and Finishing for Muzzleloading Gun Builders, Methods and Materials from 1750 - 1850).  Lots of precise information about stains, finishes, horn dying, oil cloth, etc, etc.  If you want the history, the how, the why, and the, excuse the expression....unvarnished truth.....about linseed oil and all the rest, I highly recommend Mad Monk's book.