Dave,
Some points for your consideration. Incorporate or not, as you choose.
With a one inch barrel, you are going to have a very slim rifle, probably with a wrist that is 3/4" to 7/8". I showed earlier the tang screw being threaded into the trigger plate. On guns by best makers, there is usually a screw going thru the trigger plate into the standing breech and the trigger plates have an area built into the plate to inconspicuously house that screw.
With these slim rifles, the net effect is to sandwich the area behind the tang, as cracks often develop in the thin web between the lock panels. Over time they often develop as a result of the forward weight of the barrel pulling down on that area if not securely clamped. Likewise, if not clamped, a crack will develop on the left panel where the lock screw is exerting pressure for the same reason.
Another feature found on higher grade guns are the screws they use. They have an 82 degree shoulder and an extended head. Instead of a conventional screw, which you file the head to the part, these screws are countersunk into the part, both the shoulder and part of the head. Once fitted and tightened, you can recut the screw slot to clock it in the proper position. Once they are in, they are effectively stopped and can't be turned any further. With your capabilities, I feel this is something you could probably do.
Likewise, the lock screws are usually inset into whatever sideplate is used.
Even when using conventional woodscrews on long rifles, I usually chuck them in the vise and file a small flat on the side and run the countersink deep enough to accommodate it.
