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Author Topic: Making a single phase double set trigger - TN style  (Read 2965 times)
Ken Guy
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« Reply #15 on: May 06, 2009, 06:42:56 AM »

Thanks Jim.  I'm useing steel sutable for springs but I couldn't tell you exactly what kind.  Here's another tutorial link.  I treat the springs and trigger parts as I was taught by Bookie.  He has a good tutorial on his website.
Cheers,
Ken

http://www.iowatelecom.net/~toadhall/springs.htm
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Bill Knapp
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« Reply #16 on: May 25, 2009, 04:12:33 PM »

Ken, what thickness stock do you use for the triggers, I'm using 1/2 " for the plate, should I use 1/8", or 3/16 for triggers.  This is a great tutorial.  since I had to buy a 2 foot piece of stock, I'm trying to make five triggers, and going to leave one as a  model for future builds.

Bill
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Ken Guy
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« Reply #17 on: May 28, 2009, 06:39:24 AM »

Hi Bill, Sorry I missed your post.  Between the daughter getting married and work I've been running in circles.   

I'll measure tonight to verify but but the 1/8" material seems right.  So long as you have room for the front trigger spring to run down the side of your triggers you are ok.  Of course you can always use spring wire or mount your spring in the front of the front trigger if needed.   

Ken
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longcruise
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« Reply #18 on: May 28, 2009, 03:47:44 PM »

Well, I'm going to try to make a spring out of a piece of lawn mower blade.  Am I spitting into the wind with that plan?

The Toad Hall spring tempering method was a revelation!  Can't wait to try it.
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Mike Lee

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Ken Guy
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« Reply #19 on: May 29, 2009, 09:13:43 AM »

Bill,
I measured the spring stock I'm using for the triggers and it is .095 or a wee bit under 1/8".  1/8" would certainly work.  I think 1/8" is .125.  I haven't tried making any triggers from mild steel and case hardening yet.  I may give that whirl as shaping the mild steel seems like it would be easier.

Longcruise,
While I have no doubt the mower blade would work I think it would be a lot of extra work.  You'd need to anneal it for sure. 

Hooroo,
Ken
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Bill Knapp
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« Reply #20 on: May 29, 2009, 07:09:14 PM »

Didn't know the triggers were spring steel.  I'm having trouble finding the steel, so now am trying to find Casenite, and will try it with mild steel.  I got an edger blade to make the springs with, and will give that a try.  I may have to order it from out of state.  This is becoming a fun project. I wonder if hacksaw blades would make good springs.

Bill
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longcruise
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« Reply #21 on: May 31, 2009, 03:34:09 PM »

Quote
I wonder if hacksaw blades would make good springs.

I have roughed out a front trigger return spring from a hacksaw blade.  I annealed it in my barbeque first but that may not have been necessary.   Might be able to grind it slowly and cool it often.  Since I annealed it. I'll have to harden and re-tember.  Maybe just start over and keep it cool.

Quote
While I have no doubt the mower blade would work I think it would be a lot of extra work.  You'd need to anneal it for sure.

Ken, last summer i broke a piece off the end of a blade and ended up throwing it in the bbq after the cooking part was over.  Heaped a bunch of coals around it and just left it till it was cool.  Was able to cut it and grind it to a rough shape but it needs more shaping and then hardening and annealing.  We'll see how it works.  If not satisfactroy I'll get some spring steel.
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Mike Lee

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Dphariss
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« Reply #22 on: June 01, 2009, 08:38:40 PM »

Didn't know the triggers were spring steel.  I'm having trouble finding the steel, so now am trying to find Casenite, and will try it with mild steel.  I got an edger blade to make the springs with, and will give that a try.  I may have to order it from out of state.  This is becoming a fun project. I wonder if hacksaw blades would make good springs.

Bill

Mild steel done with Kasenite will give slicker trigger than high carbon that must be annealed to prevent breaking.
Cover the part well with compound once hot then keep some heat on it for a minute or 2 is usually enough if the parts are hot enough orange or above.
Too much penetration is not really needed here.

Dan
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RDillon
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« Reply #23 on: June 04, 2009, 02:23:21 PM »

Here is my first go at building triggers.  Pack Dog was a BIG HELP!  This gun I am working on will be at Dixon's if I get it done in time! Grin

Oh, my tang screw hole is not off center!!!!!!  It's an allusion with the camera angle I took the pictures at.  I suck at pictures!



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Ben Voss
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« Reply #24 on: June 04, 2009, 09:53:31 PM »

Like them triggers,Rich! Real purty.
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Ken Guy
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« Reply #25 on: June 09, 2009, 08:22:36 PM »

Rich,
They look really good.  Thanks for posting the pics.  I can't wait to see the finished rifle.
Ken
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Dphariss
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« Reply #26 on: July 05, 2010, 03:46:50 PM »

Ken asked me to add this drawing to the tutorial.



Like a lock a DST or ANY set trigger must be properly laid out to work properly.
Improperly laid out triggers can be a SAFETY HAZARD.
This is a drawing I did some years back for a magazine column I do periodically.
It is copyrighted as a result but I don't think the editor will care much if a I use it.

Dan

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Ken Guy
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« Reply #27 on: July 05, 2010, 06:02:41 PM »

Thanks Dan!  Very helpful. 
Ken
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