Knife sheath construction question

[webradbury]

Two questions really...

I’m about to begin or attempt to make the sheaths for some knives I’ve recently completed. I have seen some sheaths here with what appears to be a separate piece of leather folded down from the mouth. I have also seen sheaths with the seam both on the edge and some with the seam on the side/back. Can anyone explain how this is done?

Secondly, I ordered a piece of 6-7 oz vegetable tanned leather for the project. Upon receiving it, both sides are rough textured. I’m used to one side being slick or smooth. I’m still going to use it but is there any way to smooth it out? If not, I’ll make do. Thanks, Will

[snapper]

My sheaths have a piece of leather cut to follow the profile of the sewn edge.  It is about 3/8" wide.  I wet the sheath in rubbing alcohol so that it can be folded easily and use contact cement to glue the folded leather together with the spacer leather piece in place.  I put the sheath in a large wooden clamp to hold everything in place until it dries. 

After it dries, I drill the holes for sewing.

Fleener

[iloco]

Scroll to the bottom of the page from this link for a book on making knife sheaths. You might want to order one.
http://www.booneguns.com/Products.html

[Elnathan]

Here is a tutorial on making a side-seam sheath, by Wick Ellerby: https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/paleoplanet69529/making-a-center-seam-sheath-t24616.html

Wick is a member here, though I haven't seen him lately.

I used this tutorial a couple years ago to make a quick and dirty sheath (i.e., out of chrome-tanned) and found that skiving the edges makes a huge difference in how well the seam turns.

Can't help with your other questions, I'm afraid.

[wattlebuster]

I made this rawhide covered sheath using the Don Bruton method from his book on the subject. His book is available from the link below
http://www.booneguns.com/

[P.W.Berkuta]

Two questions really...

I’m about to begin or attempt to make the sheaths for some knives I’ve recently completed. I have seen some sheaths here with what appears to be a separate piece of leather folded down from the mouth. I have also seen sheaths with the seam both on the edge and some with the seam on the side/back. Can anyone explain how this is done?

Secondly, I ordered a piece of 6-7 oz vegetable tanned leather for the project. Upon receiving it, both sides are rough textured. I’m used to one side being slick or smooth. I’m still going to use it but is there any way to smooth it out? If not, I’ll make do. Thanks, Will

Here is the way I make most of my knife sheathes for blades around 4" to 6 " long. The 9-10 oz leather is veggie tanned. I first draw the knife out on paper. Then I draw a border around the knife about 1/2". I then fold the paper in half length wise at the spine of the knife (allow for the fold). I then transfer the pattern on light cardboard and cut out the knife then I cut out the welt then cut out the overall pattern from another piece of thin cardboard so that I have 3 different patterns to trace out on the leather and then cut all out. I then cut a vee groove half the thickness of the leather down the center to help in the fold. I glue in the welt. Then fold the sheath in half glue then double stitch it up. The last thing is to wet form the knife to the sheath.

[webradbury]

I realized today after researching leather, I ordered split leather which basically has two flesh sides. We'll see how it turns out. Thanks for the info. Will

[Boatman53]

I've sewn up a couple of knife sheaths with the seam down the back. The blades came from Norway, I made the handle and the sheath.





Jim

[Brokennock]

Webradbury, centerseam sheath, which I believe is what you describe, and what boatman53 has shown, are more often seen as hc/pc if I recall. No welt is needed as for a folded sheath with the stitching  along the edge. Basicly a folded sheath with no welt is made, then wet with water, knife wrapped to prevent rust and sheathed, then the sheath is turned. See this excellent tutorial,

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://m.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DyH3VGcv9Els&ved=0ahUKEwj3ioKGju_XAhUEPCYKHbALB30QwqsBCCswAA&usg=AOvVaw38n7sEz9kfLJSUvjV4AW4B

[Clark Badgett]

The center seam style is very historically correct. On most original knives I've seen if they had a sheath it was center seamed. I have seen a small handful with the edge seamed style.

[webradbury]

The center seamed sheath is exactly what I was referring to.  I am going to give it a try tomorrow.  Thanks for the info and links.  Will

[Two Feathers]

Two questions really...

I’m about to begin or attempt to make the sheaths for some knives I’ve recently completed. I have seen some sheaths here with what appears to be a separate piece of leather folded down from the mouth. I have also seen sheaths with the seam both on the edge and some with the seam on the side/back. Can anyone explain how this is done?

Secondly, I ordered a piece of 6-7 oz vegetable tanned leather for the project. Upon receiving it, both sides are rough textured. I’m used to one side being slick or smooth. I’m still going to use it but is there any way to smooth it out? If not, I’ll make do. Thanks, Will

Hi
I'm new here as of about 2 minutes ago, but for what it's worth. When I "top" a sheath opening with that folded leather flap, it's to keep my knife's guard from getting hung up on the opening, plus it protects against wear and tear over the years.
I've been a knife maker since 1966, but that doesn't mean that I know it all? This is just my reasoning. As for that seam on the back side. There's a video on YouTube explaining the process. Here's a link to the video.    
I've seen ( in a short period of time) some amazing workmanship here on this forum. True masterpieces from makers. I have (at this time) no intentions of trying to compete. I make Period Correct Black Powder accessories for shooters. I have a store on a different website. Thank you.
Two Feathers
at The Mountain Man Emporium

[snapper]

I would offer up that I use rubbing alcohol to wet my leather and I do not have to wrap my knife to prevent rusting.  The alcohol also evaporates faster than water.  Depending on your handle material you might have to be careful with the alcohol.  I pull my knife out of the sheath for a few minutes at a time to let it dry off.

Fleener

[iloco]

I made my sheath using veg tanned leather for a liner and rawhide for the outside of the sheath. Added a toe bone and a few beads for a frontier look.
Knife was made by Don Bruton.

[Greg Pennell]

Do you use anything on the rawhide to waterproof it?  Varnish, shellac, wax, etc.?  This looks like a good “snow day” project.

Greg

[Black Hand]

I prefer a rawhide liner that is covered with braintan (Think a rawhide sheath inside a braintan sheath).
Nothing is used to treat the rawhide - it would take quite some time fully immersed for the rawhide to soften.

[Greg Pennell]

Thanks Blackhand. That is what I was thinking, the rawhide inside, and whatever I’m using on the bag on the outside. Should make a real sturdy sheath.

Greg

[Marcruger]

Hi Fleener,

Yes indeed, alcohol does dry faster.  In my experience with leather (Dad was a maker and we've sold leather for 30+) years, alcohol also takes out the oils in leather and makes it hard.  That can be a benefit if you are wet-molding leather to an item such as a knife or handgun.  On the other hand, it can also dry the leather out to the point of cracking.  I'd hate to mold something with alcohol and not feed the leather back with some mink oil or similar.  Not neetsfoot oil though....in my experience it makes leather black, soggy, and a mess.  Just my 2 cents worth. 

God Bless,   Marc