Author Topic: Patch Box Lid Update  (Read 2333 times)

Offline Justin

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Patch Box Lid Update
« on: December 12, 2017, 06:09:06 PM »
I have my patch box lid "final shaped" (I may add a moulding still... not quite sure) so I thought I'd share it once again and actually ask for Mike's.... I mean everyone's constructive critique / thoughts.

The rear of the lid is 3/8" high at the highest point of the crown and the tip where the dovetail ends is 1/4" at its highest point (these measurements are on the thicker side of recommendations in Recreating the American Longrifle -- which is an excellent guide by the way):

Side view of lid alone:


Side profile view with lid installed in stock:




Butt plate view:


View of side of the stock:

Offline KC

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Re: Patch Box Lid Update
« Reply #1 on: December 12, 2017, 06:49:07 PM »
I didn't offer any feedback the first time around because I've only seen pictures of them, never fiddled with one in person. However, not being an expert by any stretch of the imagination, I think it looks good, much slimmer and trimmer than the roughed out version. Nice work in my opinion.
K.C.
K.C. Clem
Bradenton, FL

n stephenson

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Re: Patch Box Lid Update
« Reply #2 on: December 12, 2017, 07:05:19 PM »
Justin, Looking quite a bit better!  You are somewhat limited , with what your working with. Once you blend the flat spot on the stock into the rest , it will look better too. If you can taper the edges to match your brass backing plate it will flow a little smoother , in other words , try to taper from the center line out to the edge , instead of coming out , and then rounding down to the edge. JMHO  Nate

Offline Justin

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Re: Patch Box Lid Update
« Reply #3 on: December 12, 2017, 07:14:03 PM »
Justin, Looking quite a bit better!  You are somewhat limited , with what your working with. Once you blend the flat spot on the stock into the rest , it will look better too. If you can taper the edges to match your brass backing plate it will flow a little smoother , in other words , try to taper from the center line out to the edge , instead of coming out , and then rounding down to the edge. JMHO  Nate

Makes sense. I'm hesitant to make the edges too thin but I think I heard someone on here say something like "Remove wood until you're scared and then remove more." :D

n stephenson

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Re: Patch Box Lid Update
« Reply #4 on: December 12, 2017, 07:18:59 PM »
You can take them down to almost a knife edge , then sand paper a very small radius on the edge , to prevent splintering.

Offline Mike Brooks

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Re: Patch Box Lid Update
« Reply #5 on: December 12, 2017, 07:44:11 PM »
What Nate said.....
NEW WEBSITE! www.mikebrooksflintlocks.com
Say, any of you boys smithies? Or, if not smithies per se, were you otherwise trained in the metallurgic arts before straitened circumstances forced you into a life of aimless wanderin'?

Offline Justin

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Re: Patch Box Lid Update
« Reply #6 on: December 12, 2017, 08:01:04 PM »
Great. Thanks guys. I'll post an update later when I think I have achieved that.

Offline Mr. Bubbles

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Re: Patch Box Lid Update
« Reply #7 on: December 12, 2017, 09:55:13 PM »
The point sides look a little straight and blocky to me.  Maybe you could make the corner edges flow in to a curve for the sides a little more subtly?  I would try it with a paper pattern first to see how you like the look before taking wood away though.  Or, make a facsimile out of a piece of thin pine.  It shouldn't take more than an hour, especially if you have something like a floor mounted belt sander to do it with.  No way I would let power tools near my finnished piece though!

54ball

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Re: Patch Box Lid Update
« Reply #8 on: December 12, 2017, 10:31:51 PM »