You did a very nice job for a first gun. You are ready to build from a plank.
If you are really planning on doing a Lehigh for your 2nd gun I would advise you to do a LOT of studying first. I would suggest you try to emulate the styles of a maker that you like, and basically duplicate what they did on some of their guns for your first one or two, right down to the carving and PB. Moll and Rupp are fairly popular guns to do. Eric von Aschwege has some detailed drawings for those, and Reeves Goering makes BP's and TG's for them. The fit and orientation of the parts is very precise in Lehighs, as well as the architecture being tricky to get right.
But before you get going with the band saw, do a lot of fiddling around taking measurements of yourself, and how you personally mount the gun. Take the following measurements;
Distance from the butt plate to where your face engages the stock at your cheek bone
Distance from your cheek bone to where your eye naturally aligns
Amount of horizontal distance from your cheek weld to the center of your eye socket (this determines cast-off needed)
Comfortable reach for your shooting hand in the position you intend to shoot it the most. Lehighs have a nasty reputation of being cheek slappers, but I think it's because people didn't get a good fit to start with. A a result, they have to angle their head over to get a good sight picture. The result is the corner of their cheek bone mating up with that squarish comb shape. Whammo, cheek slap.
I suggest you make yourself an adjustable "try gun" out of plywood and use a 2x2 on the comb roughly shaped to the squarish profile of a lehigh comb. Use shims between the 2 pieces of plywood to adjust cast off. you can make the same thing for a butt plate. Now that you have your own personal measurements (and your sight heights) you can lay out your stock design.
The following design features are quite unique to Lehighs, but also you should be aware that there is also quite a bit of variation within the school from maker to maker. (Rupp, Moll, Long, Berlin, Hawk, Young, Kuntz, Neidhart
Web thin. 3/16" max in the nose, and 1/8" in the breech, but 1/8" and 1/16" is even better.
Nose cap. 1 1/2" is pretty common. Some are grooved, some are not. Some are open ended, some are not
set back about 1/16" is pretty standard
Sights Typically very low, 1/8"is not uncommon
Side flat coverage 25%-40% max
RR coverage 1/4-1/3
fore end shape triangular is most common, and coming back in to form a heart sort of shape, with 1/32"-1/16" of wood at max where the barrel engages the wood.
Max deflection of wood from barrel. 1/8" but 3/32"is better
V shaped lower fore end, but not as radically v shapedl as the upper fore end
Lock panel sweeps gentle
Left side plate 1 piece, with pointed arrow at rear a very common shape
Lock panel margins thin 1/16" max but flat along the bottom up from trigger guard foot
Lock orientation nose down
Lock tails kicked out and wider than nose
Wrist starts diving down about 1/4" forward on to the top flat
wrist top is straight until the very top where it starts turning to meet the barrel breech
wrist shape wider than high. Think of a football shape (with the points a little higher) It then transitions to round, and then egg shaped at the rear where it engages the rear foot of the TG
vertically it forms something of an hourglass shape, which comes from carrying the horizontal belly line all the way back to the trigger, rather than angling downwards at the rear of the TG
fore end remains horizontal until the trigger, then it transitions and bends downward toward the toe. (Young and Hawk did it differently though)
Trigger. Single
trigger plate Pointed at the back
Belly line. Some did a single radius (Kuntz, Long, Neidhart, young) and some did double radius (Moll, Rupp)
Cheek piece Low and small at about 50% of stock height for lower edge
Carving Typically symmetrical baroque tang carving, usually incised, but not always. If raised, it is low
Engraving Typically simple, and baroque, but not always. Kuntz, Young, and Hawk were very good engravers
Patch box 2 piece metal is the most common, but other styles exist
PB release button at the back most common, but toe plate releases are known (Kuntz)
Butt plate return, Usually inletted in to the comb rather than sitting on top, like a Lancaster. More vertica thickness at the back than at the front
Butt plate usually pretty wide
Toe plate. Varies, but usually pretty small and simple shaped
Finish Some have a very unique deep blood red colored varnish, and it is a unique color to Lehighs
Be a little careful if you are going to do a Kuntz gun though. His style varied over his career after he moved to Philadelphia, and it was not as much Lehigh as it was Philadelphia school.
There are a myriad of other things unique to them, but this should give you a good start of what to look for when you are doing your planning. Most builders need to make a few of them before they finally "get it right". They are very graceful looking guns when done right, but because of all this stuff above, and more, also very tricky to achieve the right look.
