Easier to Clean? (Flintlock)

[Smokey Plainsman]

Compared to a percussion rifle, say the drum type style ones so common today on factory and custom guns, are flintlocks easier/faster to clean?

To me, it would seem so. My thinking:

The percussion gun must have the nipple removed as well as the cleanout screw (if applicable) after each session. The flintlock has no parts that need be removed. Both the caplock’s nipple and cleanout screw can easily become lost in the field if they are dropped. Also cleaning and drying the long flash channel in the percussion drum thoroughly is a chore in my experience. The nipple is awkward to clean as well, and when done, they must be reinstalled and the threads properly lubricated to prevent seizing, each and every time.

The flint gun just had the bore to be cleaned and the very short vent to be cared for. Granted the flint gun has more parts to the lock, but they’re all on the outside and with my method of cleaning I rinse the bore twice with hot water, draining on the last rinse with the gun pointed down so it can slowly drip drain, meanwhile I clean the lock and exterior barrel surfaces before scrubbing the bore. This allows excess water to drain out and lets the fouling soften up over the course of about 10 or 15 minutes, which gives enough time to detail the lock and the rest of the piece.

Neither gun needs the lock to be removed after every shooting in my experience, but the fact that you don’t need to take any parts off the flintlock in the field, clean the cramped drum of the caplock or the nipple, just makes flintlocks easier and quicker to clean and service.

Anyone agree or disagree?

[alacran]

I like to shoot cappers as much as I like to shoot flinters.  I do not see cleaning either as a chore. It is a way to pay respect to a rifle that will always out perform me.
As far as having to take out the nipples and the clean out screw. None of my cappers have clean out screws.
 If you are concerned about the nipple wrap some Teflon tape on the threads, and then you do not need to take them out every time for cleaning. I use a CO2 discharger to blast out all the gunk that collects in the snail of a patent breech or the touch hole of a vent liner.
I do thus after I think the barrel is almost clean. The discharger will put that gunk into the barrel where it is easier to clean. After that I finish cleaning and oil.
As far as not removing a flintlock for cleaning. I always remove the flint lock for cleaning.
 Depending on where I am at in relation to humidity ,I sometimes remove the frizzen spring. A lot of crud gets trapped in that area. Also this makes it easier to clean the pivot area of the frizzen.
Pound for pound the lock is the most expensive part of a gun and I treat it accordingly. On a cap lock I remove it once maybe twice a year to lube it. In a dry environment lock internals tend to dry out. In a humid environment they collect moisture and can rust. I like to use Lubriplate on all bearing surfaces. Lightly oil the rest.
 Hot water can and will cause flash rusting and will not do anything cold water wont do. Flash rusting is a malignant cancer in a bore.
 I can clean a barrel in less than fifteen minutes and never pour any water in it. If you clean at the range after you are done shooting fowling is not hard.

[stikshooter]

Flints are easier than percussion (maybe) but pumping water thru a cap barrel isn"t hard just use never seize on nipple threads /Ed

[OldMtnMan]

It's really a non issue for cleaning. However, a flint does take a bit more maintenance to shoot. Keeping the pan and frizzen clean and the flint sharp. Keeping the nipple and touch hole cleared is a toss up. It only take s a few seconds for both.

The real question is which one is more fun to shoot and I have to give that to the flint.

[Molly]

Funny, I was on the edge of a similar question.  All our rifles are flint....until recently when we got a cap lock.  Don't feel the need to remove the lock every time with the cap lock so I'd say caplockes ARE easier.  But the strange thing with this cap lock is how fas the barrel seems to come clean.  Using the exact same process the barrel comes clean as a whistle with no more that 10 patches after flushing with water and all in all it takes less that 30 minutes, start to finish.

But with the flintlocks it may take a good hour or more to get is as clean.  Something of a puzzle to me.

[bgf]

I found that bucket flushing caplock barrel with nipple and cleanout screw in place gave better results in use.  The nipple has a hole that is smaller than a touchhole in most cases and needs to be very clean.  Fortunately, water dissolves all powder fouling.  In drying, I put a bit of 90% alcohol down barrel until it runs out nipple and then a dry patch to blow out the liquid.  So zero difference between them in cleaning for me.

Shooting is a different thing.  The only caplock I shoot much any more is my Kentucky pistol, because I don't yet have a flintlock pistol.  I just like flintlocks better:).

[hanshi]

Only two caplocks are in my stable and there they will stay.  All the others in my stable are flintlocks and get 95% of the shooting and 100% of the hunting.  I like the two caplocks and shoot them occasionally and they reward me with little groups.  And when it comes time to clean them; I see little or no difference between them and the flintlocks. 

[Daryl]

The easiest to clean are generally patent hooked breech guns, flint of percussion. I find with my percussion guns, I do not have to remove the lock
for cleaning inside. They NEVER have any fouling inside. The flint locks are removed for cleaning every time.  There is no fouling inside them, but die to the
frizzen and pan, they are more easily cleaned off the gun.
So - cap-lock wins the speed clean for me, but my Hunkeler flinter with the hooked breech is a very close second.

[WadePatton]

I pop the locks of every time. Simply too easy not to as I see it.  My bunch is flint only at present.

[Huntschool]

Hook breech cap guns are really quick in my estimation. Pull the barrel, remove the nipple and drop it in a shot glass full of water and alcohol and stick the breech end of the barrel in a bucket of soapy water.  Run patches until clean, then a couple of strokes in clean water then dry out and lube.  Blow out nipple and put it all back together.

 
I take a lot longer on my flint guns using wet patches etc......

[rich pierce]

I’ve started a minimalist, “in the woods”-style cleaning regimen for a flintlock I shoot a lot and so far, so good. Per Daryl, I shoot a squib load when done shooting, 30 grains of powder in my .45. I swab it with about 5 very wet patches wrung out, the last couple using both sides of the patch. Then I use dry patches till it’s dry. Remove the lock and clean that with sloppy wet patches and dry it. Run a greased patch down the bore. Lube the key spots on the lock. Done. So far no rust and no ignition issues.

[Huntschool]

Rich:

I think I know the answer, but why the squib load ?

[Daryl]

Rich, if I may?

Normally the standard load deposits fouling onto the bore in the breech area. Those of us who use snug loads, do not wipe while shooting, thus this fouing builds up somewhat during a day's

shooting. Loading a charge that takes up little bore area, makes us seat the lubed patched ball down through this fouling area, which reduces the fouling in the bore considerably - 1/2 or more,

making final cleaning an easier, quicker task. While not necessary, I find it helps a lot, especially in my big gun, the .69, which uses up to 165gr. 2F. Dropping in a 25 or 30 gr. charge barely fills the

patent breech flash hole, thus I am pushing ALL of the day's fouling down with the lubricated patched ball and blasting it out when I lob that ball towards (usually the smoothbore fox target)

pow-------------------tink. Oft times, you can see the ball in flight.

Not necessary - just quickens cleaning - slightly.

[Huntschool]

Daryl:, Thanks......  I have been doing same for many, many years.  Just wanted to know if there was some other reason.  I have also done this with wet tow and even (God Forbid), wet, tightly packed news print at home.

I do shoot flat bottom rifling and tight patched RB's.

 

[hanshi]

Probably should mention that I don't remove pinned barrels for cleaning but always remove their flint locks.  Caplocks get the lock removed only periodically and of course hooked breech barrels get removed.