Front Sling Swivel

[Nhgrants]

I was thinking about using the middle barrel lug to attach a sling swivel.  The pipes are not installed
Yet so I could place one just below the stud so the swivel rests on it during loading.
Does any one see a problem with doing this?  Thanks

[smylee grouch]

IMHO that would be OK as long as it doesn't throw off the spacing gap between the other thimbles.

[hanshi]

I put a separate lug on the barrel of my fowler just in front of the middle rod thimble.  It not only looks right but also balances the sling on the gun.

[smallpatch]

I'd go with the separate, heavier underlug, just for the swivel.  An underlug is just designed to hold the wood to the barrel.

[TommyG]

Dane, I agree about a separate and heavier lug.  That brings up another question - If the lug is positioned as Hanshi's is, that is usually the waist or most narrow area of a swamped barrel, do you solder the lug on?  I usually only sink my dovetails around .025" in this area due to the barrel wall thickness.  Just curious for future builds.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

The swivel must be positioned on the barrel so that it rests against the middle (of three) rod pipes.  Otherwise, the sling will be in the way when you load the rifle.
The lug needs to be of stout enough stock to support the screw that passes through the stock.  The wood cannot be expected to do any of that work.  So to answer your question NO, the barrel tenon isn't enough support.  On a fowling piece, that lug should be soldered to the barrel, but can in addition be set in a shallow dovetail....032" max.

[Nhgrants]

Hanshi what did you use for a sling swivel lug?  I was planning on using
Sliver plumbing solder to fasten it as it will be on the round section of the barrel.
Any recommendations for the thickness of the swivel lug? Was think in of
Cutting a T shape out of a railroad spike. Please share you comments.
Thanks

[Long John]

One would think that surviving originals with sling swivels would be more prevalent in view of how useful they can be.  But they aren't, except for military guns.

Yet we can learn a lot when we use our rifles as they were in the 18th century.  When I take my journey rifle hunting I have gotten into the habit of using a leather strap that has a loop that passes around the front of the trigger guard bow and has a second loop that is tied around the fore-stock.  I end up with a sling.  Because the barrel is swamped the presence of the leather over the top flat of the barrel doesn't interfere with the sight picture at all.  I've been doing this for years, now, and I think I understand why so few non-military originals have forward sling swivels.  They weren't all that necessary.

Best Regards,

JMC
John Cholin

[BJH]

When I make a sling swivel lug for a rifle it is a truss shaped block the same width as the barrel flat. Attached by either solder or dovetail or both. This when cross drilled for the sling swivel bolt will not allow torque for the sling swivel to damage the stock. This I accidentally proved by falling on the rifle on ice with my rifle on my shoulder. Complete with a climbing tree stand. As well, A classic train wreck. BJH

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Anywhere 1/4" wide will work fine. 
Avoid a blade type tenon ... the screw needs lots of support to prevent forestock damage.

[BJH]

Plus a larger clearance hole in the stock than the hole in the lug/block. Just a size or two.BJH

[hanshi]

Hanshi what did you use for a sling swivel lug?  I was planning on using
Sliver plumbing solder to fasten it as it will be on the round section of the barrel.
Any recommendations for the thickness of the swivel lug? Was think in of
Cutting a T shape out of a railroad spike. Please share you comments.
Thanks

It was a "fabricated" lug doubled over for strength.  It was silver soldered and small, round leather discs were put between the swivel and stock on both sides.  IMO smoothbores look good with slings as do most halfstock rifles.  I see no place for a sling on a longrifle.