Not quite right

[Nordnecker]

I can't find the right castings. The ones I have came from Track of the Wolf. Pics will show the difference.



The trigger guard is right in all respects except the bow is about 1/2" too long.
The buttplate doesn't have a tight enough curve.
I'd like to get it right. Any suggestions?

[bama]

If you have the original, cast the parts you’re self using the original as the master.

[David R. Pennington]

That bp looks flat enough that it could be formed from sheet stock if you can get some heavy enough. Hard to see from picture but I would say trigger guard could be done same and soldered. I have seen some done that way and hard to tell from casting if joined tightly. Just have to aneal often.

[Mike Brooks]

I can get those cast for you.

[Nordnecker]

I can't remove the parts from the original and don't have wherewithall to cast them myself. The TG shown is untouched and could be returned (save $30). The BP cannot be returned but maybe could be used to cast another, with some modification. TG would be perfect if the bow was 1/2" shorter.
So tell me what to do, Fellas.

[Mike Brooks]

Unless you cast from the original parts you aren't going to get exact copies to build with. Unless you saw them out....not much fun. I'd go with what you have. Most of the time you have to get what ever is as close as you can get and move on from there.

[Pukka Bundook]

If you anneal that buttplate, I think you can give it more curve fairly easily with a mallet and wood blocks.

[Nordnecker]

That's what I've always done. In fact, I've had a TG that I thought was just fine for several years. I've waited for 10 months to get the Bbl that matches the original. I held off ordering other parts until I had the Bbl in hand just in case that didn't work out.
So, with the original on the bench, I ordered the BP that I thought was closest. It was then that I realized the guard wasn't quite right so I ordered the one pictured above. I had to cut the BP, peen on it, file it, but I couldn't get the curve to close up enough. I can almost live with that.
But the first guard I had- the finial is too short and is narrow in one spot. The front of the bow is just wrong, it can't be manipulated to correct.
Guard #2 is much better, just way too long in the bow.

Please educate me-
-Even if You had the original furniture off of the gun to make the mould from, wouldn't it shrink after casting and be a little small?
- Could I use Bondo or something to add onto the BP casting that I have to make a mould for a new casting?
- If the (too long) TG casting were used for a casting mould, couldn't part of the mould be cut away to leave a shorter bow, leaving the existing casting unaffected?

Sorry Pukka, your post came in while I was posting. I can't figure out how to hold it and direct the force where it needs do go to do this.
 

[Mike Brooks]

You could cut that bow and remove 1/2" of material and solder it back together then use that as a master to make your casting from. I just made a master trigger guard for NE #17 in Grinslade's book for the gun I'm building now. Made it out of sheet brass and soldered and riveted it all together then made a casting from it. There is some sort of industrial foam block crapola on the market that is easily worked yet strong you could make a master out of too, although I have 0% experience with that stuff.
 The original buttplate may be made from sheet brass, you could give that a try. Lots of the old BP's were made from sheet, especially American stuff. I've done quite a bit of it myself. There is a learning curve involved, don't expect your first one to be perfect.
 In my experience you'll loose less that a 1/16" in sand casting from your master. Buttplates tend to loose more in height than width for some reason. Seems I heard long ago you can expect a 3% loss in dimension when sand casting, but I don't remember where I heard that.

[Cades Cove Fiddler]

     ...Nordnecker,...I perceive that you are as particular with your butt-plate and trigger-guard as I am about the look of   correct Unicoi Co. Tennessee forgeings,...!!! ... That's a good thing,... !!! ... regards, CCF,....

[Nordnecker]

I really apreciate these responses. On past builds, when I have only had pictures and measurements to guide me, I moved along blissfully unaware of any significant difference. This is my first actual "bench copy". I don't expect perfection. I'm not in any hurry, but I would like to do the best I can.
I wish I knew more about casting brass. It's something I've been interested in for years. I've read a little about it, and only know that I don't know squat. I have a forge and could possibly generate enough heat. I don't have a crucible or the right sand, etc. I've probably got 25 lbs of brass scrap.

[Nordnecker]

I just went out to the shop and took a piece of brass scrap, cut it in half and layed the 2 pieces overlapping in a spoon. I fired up the oxy acetylene torch and commenced to melting the 2 pieces into one. Sho-nuff, it worked. But it brazed to the spoon . I think it might work for the TG but not in a spoon. What to use? How to hold the pieces in position?

[G_T]

IMHO, if you are going to cut out and rejoin the triggerguard, you want to find a bench jeweler friend. A bench jeweler who is so inclined could cut out the section, mate the parts so no light shows through, jig it up on his bench, flux it well, and solder it with EZ solder, or even electrical solder if one wants to keep the temperature lower. Or that Bismuth based??? rod that you can get that will solder most anything, at a low temp. A touch of cleanup and the joint will be good. That becomes your new master to make castings.

Gerald

[Clint]

Finding a reasonably local brass foundry is a very handy asset. I would cut the trigger guard and solder it back, the way you want it. Then have one cast. If you are concerned about shrinkage you can dip the master in poly a couple times to bulk it up. I would cut the butt plate on the angle and hammer tighten the bend to resemble the original. I don't know about English guns, but there are some nice German guns that had the butt plate cast in two pieces and silver brazed at the corner. I have cast long rifle butt plates in my shop in two pieces and it works pretty nicely.C Wright

[Bill Raby]

IMHO, if you are going to cut out and rejoin the triggerguard, you want to find a bench jeweler friend. A bench jeweler who is so inclined could cut out the section, mate the parts so no light shows through, jig it up on his bench, flux it well, and solder it with EZ solder, or even electrical solder if one wants to keep the temperature lower. Or that Bismuth based??? rod that you can get that will solder most anything, at a low temp. A touch of cleanup and the joint will be good. That becomes your new master to make castings.

Gerald

EZ solder or electrical solder. NO NO NO!!!!! Mix 85% brass and 15% silver to make a hard solder. No reason to keep the temperature low. Or weld it with a brass rod. Any jeweler that does repair or custom work will not have any trouble with it. It is an easy job. If you cannot remove the originals, then carve a copy out of wax. Bring it to a jeweler that does custom work and he can make a casting from it.

https://www.riogrande.com/product/matt-purple-wax-block/700555