Author Topic: Video - Staining Curly Maple with Tanic Acid and Iron Nitrate (Read 3361 times)

Daryl · « **Reply #1 on:** February 17, 2019, 10:02:49 PM »

Great finishing video, Jim. TKS.

bowkill · « **Reply #2 on:** February 17, 2019, 10:26:06 PM »

Just learned something..

The Stumbler · « **Reply #3 on:** February 17, 2019, 10:34:28 PM »

Thanks again Jim for taking the time to make and post this video.

When preparing to finish a stock is there a determining factor that would sway you one way or another between the straight Iron Nitrate verses the Tanic Acid - Iron Nitrate system ?

Thanking you in advance,
Stumbler

moleeyes36 · « **Reply #4 on:** February 17, 2019, 11:34:40 PM »

Thanks, Jim. Now maybe I'll try using some of that tannic acid I bought from you a couple of years ago. Never had the nerve to use it before, just always stuck with the Iron Nitrate.

Mole Eyes

Jim Kibler · « **Reply #5 on:** February 18, 2019, 05:42:59 PM »

Quote from: The Stumbler on February 17, 2019, 10:34:28 PM

Thanks again Jim for taking the time to make and post this video.

When preparing to finish a stock is there a determining factor that would sway you one way or another between the straight Iron Nitrate verses the Tanic Acid - Iron Nitrate system ?

Thanking you in advance,
Stumbler

It's really just a matter of personal prefererence. Each process results in a slightly different look. I tend to use just the iron nitrate alone mostly. It seems many like to do all they can to maximize contrast in the figure so they like the tanic acid treatment. Both are good though.

Jim

Brian cox · « **Reply #6 on:** February 18, 2019, 08:06:46 PM »

Thank you for the video. You are providing great support for those of us that have never done anything like this and really want to do proper justice to the wonderful kits you supply.

Do you neutralize the tannic acid after it is on the stock? If I remember correctly in another video you mentioned that the iron nitrate you use did not need to be neutralized. I was wondering if it was the same for the tannic acid.

Thanks again.

Jim Kibler · « **Reply #7 on:** February 18, 2019, 08:36:21 PM »

Quote from: Brian cox on February 18, 2019, 08:06:46 PM

Thank you for the video. You are providing great support for those of us that have never done anything like this and really want to do proper justice to the wonderful kits you supply.

Do you neutralize the tannic acid after it is on the stock? If I remember correctly in another video you mentioned that the iron nitrate you use did not need to be neutralized. I was wondering if it was the same for the tannic acid.

Thanks again.

I don't neutralize. Some do. It's a personal choice. I've not noticed any long term ill effects from not. Happy these are helpful!

Jim

Daryl · « **Reply #8 on:** February 18, 2019, 08:59:03 PM »

I think Taylor did the tannic acid as well as nitrate on this Kibler kit.
ok - I flubbed with the nitrous laughing gas - but look at the finish - it worked.

Eric Kettenburg · « **Reply #9 on:** February 18, 2019, 10:47:03 PM »

How much faster was it completed with the 'nitrous?' Must have really kicked the speed up a notch!

Jim Kibler · « **Reply #10 on:** February 19, 2019, 12:12:09 AM »

Might have been laughing the whole time finishing as well.

Mauser06 · « **Reply #11 on:** February 19, 2019, 12:48:24 AM »

Figured I'd post my examples of colors obtained from Jim's tannic acid and iron nitrate.

Depending on the wood and applications of both and then how much rubbing out is done. I didn't rub either really heavy. Just highlighted a few spots basically.

I will say, I'm going to neutralize the next one. Both of those have darkened up a good bit.

Obviously different lighting etc affects the look...but you can tell it's a bit darker.

Mike Brooks · « **Reply #12 on:** February 19, 2019, 01:04:45 AM »

Here are two guns done with Jim's tannic acid and Iron nitrate, rubbed out, no neutralizer. The first is sugar maple and the second is red maple. In my experience the red maple will go a little darker. Prompts me to buy better wood.

Stoner creek · « **Reply #13 on:** February 19, 2019, 01:07:50 AM »

Wow, that gun with all of the wire inlay sure is pretty! I wish I could afford something nice like that!!

Mike Brooks · « **Reply #14 on:** February 19, 2019, 01:22:50 AM »

Quote from: Stoner creek on February 19, 2019, 01:07:50 AM

Wow, that gun with all of the wire inlay sure is pretty! I wish I could afford something nice like that!!

Yeah, me too!

Mick C · « **Reply #15 on:** February 19, 2019, 07:24:35 PM »

Love that Lehigh rifle. I need to add one of those to my little collection.

RAT · « **Reply #16 on:** February 20, 2019, 12:47:22 AM »

The mystery is solved! All I need is a 3-legged dog to give my guns character.

shifty · « **Reply #17 on:** February 20, 2019, 03:03:27 AM »

Mauser06,Tell us about that half stock nice.As are all the others here.

Mauser06 · « **Reply #18 on:** February 20, 2019, 03:49:33 AM »

Shifty, long story on the half stock lol

Pennsylvania has a flintlock only season. like most guys, I had a 50cal TC Hawken I didn't like 50cal round ball performance. I shot a few and wasn't getting exits. I went to Buffalo Ball-ets and they did well. At least they exited.

I found a 1" drop in green mountain fast twist barrel. I already had a L&R replacement lock on my TC.

I figured I'd throw together my own rifle. I found a "TC replacement stock" from Pectonia River. TOTW had "replacement" steel furniture. I found a 1" tang and had everything I needed to put a gun together and finish the stock.

I really thought it was going to screw right together after I finished the stock.

The parts came...the stock came. I was beside myself. The steel was wax castings but needed a lot of cleanup. The stock...it was very oversized and the buttplate wasn't inlet..lock and triggers didn't fit...lots of wood to remove...

Send it all back?

I always wanted to learn to build...but didn't know where to start nor did I own much for tools...

I stocked that rifle without a vise...using a flexcut 5 piece palm chisel set and mostly sandpaper as I didn't own a rasp or much for files....

It is CRAZY accurate. I shoot a 300gr copper solid Thor from it. My goodness is it accurate.

The finish turned out nice...it's deadly. Not traditional...but it got me into building. I learned a LOT. I've never blued steel, inlet parts, shaped a stock, finished maple etc.

Look at some of my other pics and you'll see a dedicated build bench..tools all over... working on #3 and #4 now...one a Kibler Colonial and the other is my first plank build that's going to be an early gun..that why I bought the Kibler Colonial kit..to $#*! me shape the plank. I was fine with the inletting and all that work...but the shaping from a plank is new to me...so far, it's coming along well.

Hungry Horse · « **Reply #19 on:** February 20, 2019, 06:29:16 PM »

A couple of years ago I gave a bunch of parts to a fellow gun club member, and shooting buddy. The parts had a long and checkered past, and had actually been given away by me once before. They consisted of a highly figured Myrtle halfshock blank, a Montana .32 caliber barrel, an iron CVA buttplate, and a small Cochran left hand percussion lock. The new owner had never built a gun from scratch before, but was a good craftsman in other projects.
He arrived last night at our gun meeting with his creation. Wow, I was blown away, as was everybody else at the meeting. He did a fine job of building a half stocked SMR. We all said it had to be Southern Oregon mountain rifle, since it was stocked in Myrtle. He used many of Jim Kiblers techniques with tannic acid and in his case vinigaroon to stain the stock and the results were stunning to say the least. The heavily figured Myrtle accepted the treatment very well, and scared the daylights out of the budding gun builder by in his words “turning as black as a sock” after the vinigaroon was let dry, and heated. The rub back revealed the true beauty of the wood. Thanks Jim, for the great instruction.

Hungry Horse

News:

Author Topic: Video - Staining Curly Maple with Tanic Acid and Iron Nitrate (Read 3361 times)