Advice on a bag

[Mike Lyons]

I’m trying my luck at the “Getz Fox Face” bag for personal use.  This is the first time I’ve used embossing rollers. Any tips?  I have a couple practice pieces I’m working on trying to get the hang of it.  There’s so much embossing with stylus tools and rollers that I’m constantly wetting the leather.  It seems, and I may be wrong, but you want to accomplish as much as possible every time you case the leather or you’ll make the embossing fade out.  I’ve traced the pattern on wax paper and use the stylus the make the lines.  Is that the right way?  Anyhow,  thanks for any advice I can get on this endeavor.

[James Rogers]

If you are not thoroughly wetting the leather and letting it come back to normal color but cool to the touch you will have to be constantly wetting it. What is happening is you are just getting the surface wet instead of a full case IMO. You really have to play with casing a lot to get the feel and every hide has it's own requirements. The more you do it the quicker you can adjust to its needs. Tracing with a stylus is correct.

[Mike Lyons]

Thanks James. I’ll keep practicing on this practice flap with different amounts of water.  I was using a sponge.  I’ll try a spray  bottle and try submerging it.  That should at least give me two radical points to work with. 

[Marcruger]

Mike, there is another choice.  Just run the tooling surface of the leather quickly under a faucet. 

My dad did full-on leather carving (not tooling) for years.  He was quite good at it.  The method above is what he taught me.  Yes, you keep an eye on the leather color and feel, and re-wet when it starts to dry.  Too dry, and the tooling doesn't want to take.  Too wet and it is soggy and stretches, and sometimes also doesn't take as well. 

As James suggested, you need to play with it a bit to get a feel for it.  Also, if stamping, keep in mind that large stamps need much more force than small stamps.  Be cautious too if using a small stamp not to cut through thin leather with too much force.

I am still learning all of this, so it is good to get solid advice.   

God Bless,   Marc

[James Rogers]

There is also a sweet spot of moisture that allows not just for a good impression but a good burnish in the stamping as well.

[Mike Lyons]

The bag portion took to everything a lot better.   I hate to do a fourth flap,  but I see what both of you are talking about.  If you can get the exact right amount of moisture,  things are easier to do.  This is all from the same hide.

[thecapgunkid]

Mike;

Judging by the looks of your pics, you are at least making good progress and at most on your way to a well crafted bag.  James and Marcruger have given you good advice, but the bottom line is that this is a touchy-feely thing.

Althoough focused on dampening, you have or will doutless find that control of the roller is equally important.  I tend to have too heavy a hand and have to watch out for a slip.  Too light and the impressions will not be crisp enough.  Steady will prevent erratic patterns

When I was taught to carve gunbelts and saddles, the leather was cased as James cited.  Once there is enough moisture in the fibers, you can re-moisten...not wet...the surface the way Marcruger cited.

You're right to burn a few flaps until you feel confident.  I learned the hard way to let my piece get close to drying to get sharp stamping, rolling or carving features.  When  you're there, you'll know it.  Good luck

[Mick C]

That's going to be incredible!!  Can't wait to see the finished bag.

[James Rogers]

Mike what kind of leather (brand) are you using?

[Mike Lyons]

It's a "3-4 oz Tannery Run Import Economy Tooling Side" from Zack White.  I know it's not a high grade piece of leather but it blows away the Tandy sides that I have dealt with in the past. 

[Karl Kunkel]

That's going to be a great bag.  I got to see the original and his contemporary reproduction when Don had them at Lewisburg a few years back.

[Mike Lyons]

I’ve never seen either of them. I’m going off pictures from the internet.  It’s been a learning experience.  There’s several things I wish I would have done differently  but,  that seems to be the way I feel about every single project I do whether it’s a gun, bag, horn, knife or whatever.  It’s hard to get used to not being satisfied with results but it is what it is. 

[Marcruger]

We are our own worst critic.
I think it looks great, and am awaiting the finished bag.
God bless, Marc

[Greg Pennell]

Ditto what Marc said. I think it looks great.

Greg

[Mike Lyons]

Thanks.  I wish I would have used a thinner tool for the whiskers.  I used the smallest stylus I had but think thing a butter knife would have been better.  Here’s where I’m at now.  Still need the fringe and then the sewing begins. 

[Marcruger]

I think that antiquing glaze was just the right touch. Nice tones. Two thumbs up.

[Mike Lyons]

Thanks Mark. It was Fiebings Antique finish.  The stuff is a thick paste.  I finished the leather with atom wax and then covered it completely with the paste.  Thought for sure I ruined the entire project.  It wiped off with a little rubbing and I coated it with atom wax again.  It was my first attempt at using the product.  It turned the mahogany dye a nice reddish color. 

[thecapgunkid]

You ARE gonna post pics when you're done...right?