Wire Inlay Tools

[JLayne]

I was at Dixon's a couple weeks ago and sat through the class on wire/ribbon inlays, which was very informative. Upon getting back home, however, I thought of a question I should have asked at the time. The instructor passed around several stabbing in tools he uses for inlay work, explaining how that he makes the tools himself. I have also read the books that suggest making such tools from pieces of old hacksaw blades. My question is whether there are any vendors who sell tools for this sort of work, or is making them yourself the only way to acquire them?

On another note, while I am at it, are there any vendors who sell the small brass and/or silver pins used to hold other inlays in place, such as a thumbpiece or cheek inlay?

Thanks in advance.
Jay

[Hungry Horse]

Making your own wire inlay tools is a good idea. That way you can match the sweep of scrolls, so you can work in tight spaces, or more expansive areas, depending on much wire you want to put in the stock. Those small brass, and sometimes German silver, nails are available at most hardware stores, and lumber yards. A homemade tool can easily be made to change the small round head into a countersunk head. It’s just a scrap of steel with a proper sized hole drilled through it, and the lightly countersunk. You just drop a nail into it, while the block is clamped in a vise, and wack the head with a smooth faced hammer.

  Hungry Horse

[smart dog]

Hi Jay,
You can adapt store-bought chisels to do the work.  Dave Price uses flat chisels and gouges for making scrolls. However, it is really easy to make them from hacksaw blades. Some folks even form curved blades from hacksaw blades.  I cannot use full length chisels and gouges for making the cuts for certain reasons I'll not discuss right now.  I need short tools so I can huddle over the work.  A series of small straight chisels from hacksaw blades is all I need. I don't use any curved blades, however, my straight blades are all shaped like narrow footballs in cross section (when looking straight at the edge of the blade).  That allows me to cut curves without the straight blade creating "stair step" cuts around the curve.  My flat, straight chisels are 1/16", 1/8", and 1/4" wide.
 


Frank Bartlett made similar chisels from small flat screw drivers.  The screw driver in my photo is not a chisel. The end is rounded like a round-ended spatula and I use it to nudge and smooth curves after the wire is inlet but before filed flush with the wood.  It is an extremely useful little tool.

dave

[Blacksmoke]

Jay:  When I teach wire inlay I suggest to disregard the tutorial using short pieces of hack saw blades because in their use your hand is so close to our work that the lines for your pattern get obscured.  I recommend what Dave suggested.  Re - shape a small screw driver to a "shovel" point and  only about 1/8" wide.  Also your result of inlay will only be as good as your drawing.  Practice drawing patterns first - then practice your inlaying techniques on scrap wood first before applying on your gunstock. Check out the rifle entitled "Bucks Co. Rifle" on this same thread.    Good luck,
Hugh Toenjes

[smart dog]

Hi Hugh,
I have no problem with the short chisels obscuring my pattern as demonstrated in the photo above.  I do not agree that is an issue.  Shaping screw drivers is a good alternative but one can do quite well with hacksaw blades as I demonstrate below:

dave

[dogcatcher]

I used X-acto blades.  I bought a few regular handles and cut them down to about 3 inches, then epoxied on a wood blank and turned to what I thought was a good shape.  The blades I shaped with my Dremel with a cutoff wheel and using a belt sander.  I can also use the handles with other X blades, and with the X-acto carving blades.  These plus a couple of other started life as a travel carving set.  I saved the safety covers, I promise they come in handy.   

[sqrldog]

Dave if you look closely at Frank Bartlett's wire chisels I think you will  see the narrow chisels are repurposed needle files. Some of the do have a radius to assist in the tight turns and scroll work  Bartlett was noted for. Tim

[Mike Brooks]

This was done with busted up hacksaw blades ground to convenient widths. I use about 2" sections of blade and  stab it in with my engraving hammer. I'm self taught, just sat down and figured it out a couple decades ago. Copy of an Oerter rifle, Christians Spring ca. 1775-1778. This is about as fancy as American work got, and not that hard to do. They took wire work to another level in England and Europe that wasn't seen here in N. America. I need to make another one of these, looking back this was a very enjoyable project. And, I understand it shoots incredibly well.

[Stoner creek]

It’ll be on the bench Wednesday afternoon. You can see for yourself!

[Ed Wenger]

Hi Jay..., I was the guy who gave the talk and demo on wire work at Dixon’s.  Check with Tom Snyder (tpsnyder@mtu.edu), he has made these tools in the past and may have some available.  Also, if you’re going to the CLA show, Tom usually has some for sale at his table.  If you have any questions, shoot me a PM.

As to your question regarding hacksaw blades for wire work, as you can see, some fine work can be achieved with tools made from them.  Another good option, as Dave pointed out, is the flat screwdriver.  I think, like so many other things, a lot comes down to personal preference.  The most important thing, to me, is the shape of the tool, as Dave explained.  Also, Hugh brought up a great point..., your design really needs to be well thought out, and drawn as perfectly as you can get it, and practice first!

Practice plate:




Some tools: