Stock Finishing Advice

[silky]

Evening,

Below are a few pics of a curly maple stock I'm in the process of finishing.  To cut right to it, the lighter tones in the butt area are too light for my taste, so I'd like to darken the stock some, but...

I've already applied a sealing coat of thinned Tried & True varnish, so what options do I have to get some more color on the stock to darken it now?  It was stained with two applications of Aqua Fortis, which looked great in the barrel channel and matches the nice darker tones forward of the lock.  But for whatever reason, the light tones aft of the lock plate area are very light blonde.  Maybe I removed some finish by rubbing too hard during the application of the oil?  Or it's just the natural character of the wood?

After searching this message board, it seems my options at this point are:

1. Strip the oil finish and apply a dye to darken the stock
2. Attempt to darken by tinting the follow-on applications of Tried & True with something like LMF or Transtint
3. Maybe try some Chambers Oil over the top, as it tends to darken and redden the finish.
4. Apply bone black in light areas (I was already planning on using it to achieve a handled look)
5. Live with it

I'm nervous about stripping with a chemical, because it strikes me as being traumatic to the wood.  Is that true, or is it pretty safe for follow-on staining/treatment?  If I strip it, is there any chemical residue that would interfere with applying more Aqua Fortis? 

The pics don't convey just how light the areas are on the butt.  And I'm holding off on anymore applications of oil till I decide what to do.

I really do appreciate any thoughts, advice, or lessons you could share with me.  Thanks!

- Tom

[Scota4570]

You could rub it back to the wood with scotchbrite or steel wool  and acetone.  Work outside and wear gloves.  Not need to strip it with paint remover. 

At that point use a dye stain to achieve the darkness you want.   Use your bone black too.  play with it until you like it.  Then test it with mineral spirits to see what you have before you apply finish this time. 

[Bob McBride]

I like the bone black solution. Your problem area would be a natural place to have that sort of patina it seems to me. You can always strip if it doesn’t turn out.

[Mike Brooks]

It will probably darken up more with more finish.

[Tim Crosby]

 I have always liked that "Bumblebee" look and try to bring out that Black/Brown/Blonde/Yellow look.

   Tim C.

[PPatch]

5. Live with it.

I do recommend Chambers oil as your finish, it will darken that area somewhat. Your stock is gorgeous as it is and you've brought out all its contrast.

dave

[alex e.]

When you put all the hardware and patchbox back on ,your eye will be taken off of it. The figure just seems to be less at the rear of the gun
If you hadn't said something  to bring its attention,  I wouldn't have given it a thought

[Frank]

http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=52923.0

[Jim Kibler]

I would suggest going over the stock with some of Laurel Mountain Forge's aniline dye stains.  This should penetrate through the little bit of finish you already have.  You can also tint your subsequent coats of oil finish.

Jim

[silky]

Evening,

I’m going with a couple of your suggestions...

1. Hit it with some diluted LMF to darken the overall finish, but not too crazy, as that’s a good point that the brass furniture does make a difference (I put some parts in place and was surprised by the effect).

2. Press with applying some bone black as planned.

4. Let the subsequent applications of oil darken it up... and live with the result. If I do go the route of Chambers Oil, are there any issues putting it over a well-dried application of Tried & True?

It is a beautiful stock and it’s kinda cool to let the wood have a say in how it looks.  I really appreciate you guys taking the time to help a newbie — thanks a lot!

- Tom