Author Topic: Nose cap pouring  (Read 2129 times)

Offline kudu

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Nose cap pouring
« on: September 03, 2019, 06:15:27 PM »
Any one use "Cerrosafe" for a poured nose cap instead of Pewter?
It (cerrosafe) melts real low 160-190 deg fahrenheit.  Not much higher than most water heater settings.

Offline Hungry Horse

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Re: Nose cap pouring
« Reply #1 on: September 03, 2019, 07:10:17 PM »
I’ve seen a couple done that way. They don’t look like pewter. I like pure tin myself. It doesn’t look like lead, and is very easy to pour, as long as you don’t overheat it.

  Hungry Horse

Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: Nose cap pouring
« Reply #2 on: September 03, 2019, 08:31:32 PM »
HH has made a very good point.  Whatever metal you use, ie:  pewter, high speed babbit, or tin, do not overheat the metal.  If you do, the wood will char excessively, give off gases as it does, and cause bubbles in your pour.  I think tin stays clean and shiny the longest. Babbit and pewter darken and go dull and grey much more quickly.  But that's not a bad thing.
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Offline shortbarrel

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Re: Nose cap pouring
« Reply #3 on: September 04, 2019, 12:58:46 AM »
The last nose cap I cast was high tin.Mixture of lead and tin. I little grey, but not much.-

Offline WadePatton

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Re: Nose cap pouring
« Reply #4 on: September 04, 2019, 03:46:44 AM »
I've got some left-over high-tin-antimony alloy pills (high velocity bullets) that I never plan to shoot and thought I might melt those for my nosecap, any problems with that?  I sold that gun a while back.

Saves me selling or giving those away and buying "proper" metal.  The big ones are 20 to a pound.

Should I add more tin, use pure tin, or just wing it and do better next thyme?
Hold to the Wind

Offline John Shaw

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Re: Nose cap pouring
« Reply #5 on: September 06, 2019, 06:38:22 AM »
Modern lead free solder works very well and looks good. It's 95% tin and 5% antimony and is easy to come by. Plus, you don't need to worry about the dreaded lead poisoning while you use it ::)

JS
« Last Edit: September 06, 2019, 06:42:25 AM by John Shaw »

Offline Dphariss

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Re: Nose cap pouring
« Reply #6 on: September 10, 2019, 04:34:20 AM »
Any one use "Cerrosafe" for a poured nose cap instead of Pewter?
It (cerrosafe) melts real low 160-190 deg fahrenheit.  Not much higher than most water heater settings.

Why?
I use Silva-Brite 100 solder when I can find it. Right color and its one of the old non-toxic pewter formulas.
Quit lead bearing stuff decades ago.

Dan
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine

Offline Dphariss

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Re: Nose cap pouring
« Reply #7 on: September 10, 2019, 04:35:57 AM »
I've got some left-over high-tin-antimony alloy pills (high velocity bullets) that I never plan to shoot and thought I might melt those for my nosecap, any problems with that?  I sold that gun a while back.

Saves me selling or giving those away and buying "proper" metal.  The big ones are 20 to a pound.

Should I add more tin, use pure tin, or just wing it and do better next thyme?
Add more lead and make round balls.
I don't use lead bearing material since it gets sanded and the lead gets everywhere in very fine particles.
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine

Offline WadePatton

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Re: Nose cap pouring
« Reply #8 on: September 10, 2019, 05:11:18 AM »
I've got some left-over high-tin-antimony...
Should I add more tin, use pure tin, or just wing it and do better next thyme?

Add more lead and make round balls.
I don't use lead bearing material since it gets sanded and the lead gets everywhere in very fine particles.

Yes, makes more sense that way.  Or maybe there's a crazy demand for 'em [investigates] oh my, they've gone up!  I may sell 'em and buy proper metals for current applications.  I no longer have that gun.


...
I use Silva-Brite 100 solder when I can find it. Right color and its one of the old non-toxic pewter formulas.
Quit lead bearing stuff decades ago.

Dan

It's available at my usual source, how far does a pound go?
« Last Edit: September 10, 2019, 05:29:49 AM by WadePatton »
Hold to the Wind

Offline Hungry Horse

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Re: Nose cap pouring
« Reply #9 on: September 10, 2019, 05:05:53 PM »
Second hand stores often have modern lead free pewter items that have been engrave as awards in the past. These can be bought cheap most of the time, and make great cast nose caps. I bought a grocery bag full for ten bucks, that will probably last me the rest of my life.

  Hungry Horse

Offline Robin Henderson

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Re: Nose cap pouring
« Reply #10 on: September 11, 2019, 01:52:03 AM »
I always keep my eyes open at yard sales, etc for pewter items. They usually go pretty cheap, especially if they are bent up. Here's my latest from an old goblet bought at a recent yard sale.

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Offline Darkhorse

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Re: Nose cap pouring
« Reply #11 on: September 13, 2019, 06:47:00 PM »
I just bought some pewter ingots from TOW. And I prepared my wood and fore end just like Herschel House did in the video using the same materials he demonstrated. No leakage. Little fuss and bother. What can I say, it worked perfect.

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Offline jerrywh

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Re: Nose cap pouring
« Reply #12 on: September 14, 2019, 09:32:36 PM »
 I have about every alloy in my shop and have used them for many years. I think pure tin is best for nose caps. Cerro safe cost too much. I use it for lots of other purposes Like backing thin metal when engraving it and putting in shotgun barrels for turning them also for measuring chambers.
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