Author Topic: Practice barrel. (Read 2243 times)

Justin Urbantas · « **on:** October 14, 2019, 07:44:30 PM »

Here's a little scrap piece of rifle barrel I threw in the 109 lathe. Wanted to practice tapering, flaring the muzzle a bit, making a wedding band etc. It started out as a 1 1/8" barrel, so a bit big for a pistol, but I'm pretty happy how most of the profiling went. First project on the lathe.

Daryl · « **Reply #1 on:** October 14, 2019, 07:51:16 PM »

Almost ready for final polish- just need to taper the flats down to the wedding band, so it is a tapered octagonal, 1/2 round, 1/2 octagonal swamped pistol bl.

Justin Urbantas · « **Reply #2 on:** October 14, 2019, 07:59:57 PM »

Quote from: Daryl on October 14, 2019, 07:51:16 PM

Almost ready for final polish- just need to taper the flats down to the wedding band, so it is a tapered octagonal, 1/2 round, 1/2 octagonal swamped pistol bl.

any easier ways to do that besides draw filing?

Anonymous · « **Reply #3 on:** October 14, 2019, 08:02:24 PM »

Might just be the photograph, but surface finish looks a bit rough. You should be able to smooth it up by using a larger radius on the tip of your cutting tool.

J. Talbert · « **Reply #4 on:** October 14, 2019, 08:45:22 PM »

As you said, it is a rather large barrel to start with, however for future reference, cosmetically the difference between your octagon and round diameters seems a bit excessive. I think a less drastic difference in diameter would be much more visually appealing.
You could still proceed to taper and flare the round section forward from the transition, but the beginning of the round section would be taken down only as much as is needed to round it out.

Not sure whether you were looking for critiques,

FWIW,
Jeff

Justin Urbantas · « **Reply #5 on:** October 14, 2019, 10:07:00 PM »

Yeah it's definitely rough. I used a small carbide for most of it. I wasn't too concerned with the finish, or transition between octagon and round sections on this one. Imagine it with 1/8" on the octagon, with some taper. A 1" barrel would be much closer to the dimensions I need. Advice is always welcome.

Rolf · « **Reply #6 on:** October 14, 2019, 11:49:15 PM »

Quote from: Justin Urbantas on October 14, 2019, 10:07:00 PM

Yeah it's definitely rough. I used a small carbide for most of it. I wasn't too concerned with the finish, or transition between octagon and round sections on this one. Imagine it with 1/8" on the octagon, with some taper. A 1" barrel would be much closer to the dimensions I need. Advice is always welcome.

Here is how I did it. americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=26376.0
Best regards
Rolf

Bob Roller · « **Reply #7 on:** October 15, 2019, 01:45:36 AM »

Quote from: Justin Urbantas on October 14, 2019, 07:59:57 PM

Quote from: Daryl on October 14, 2019, 07:51:16 PM
Almost ready for final polish- just need to taper the flats down to the wedding band, so it is a tapered octagonal, 1/2 round, 1/2 octagonal swamped pistol bl.
any easier ways to do that besides draw filing?

Get on it with a coarse file and use threading fluid like Rapid Tap or Tap Magic.
If the barrel is 12L14 it will not be hard to do.A car parts shop might sell curved
tooth body files like the Vixen and they will move metal.

Bob Roller

Daryl · « **Reply #8 on:** October 15, 2019, 04:47:27 AM »

Justin- draw filing is the way of it. With such a short section to file, will go quickly. I did a whole round barrel to octagonal once, but I was young, like you are.

Pukka Bundook · « **Reply #9 on:** October 15, 2019, 06:15:12 AM »

Justin,
For the smoothest cut, use tool steel, not carbide.
Carbide are good for an interrupted cut, but not good for a smooth finish.

Justin Urbantas · « **Reply #10 on:** October 15, 2019, 06:19:24 AM »

Thanks for the tips guys. You use tap fluid with the file? I haven't used any steel cutters before. Do you need to keep lube on it constantly? I imagine it would heat up pretty quick.

James Wilson Everett · « **Reply #11 on:** October 15, 2019, 04:30:40 PM »

Guys,

The ring transition tended to be rather low in height. The octagon to round transition was not a big change in diameter. In the photos the ring seems to be a bit too high. If you measure the maximum diameter of the ring and the across the flats measurement of the octagon adjacent, there should not be a large difference. See the photo below.

Jim

James Rogers · « **Reply #12 on:** October 15, 2019, 04:52:24 PM »

An original turned barrel showing the octagon to round transition intersection with band and how little step exists.

45-110 · « **Reply #13 on:** October 15, 2019, 06:44:37 PM »

Small bench lathes have more vibration than say a large tool room machine. Make sure the cross feed gib it snug along with the saddle and minimal tool over hang. When entering a cut make sure the backlash is out. Carbide cuts fine....but there are many grades, chip relief(s), angles etc. A tool steel cutter works fine too, and you can grind what you need for what you are turning. Really good lathe work has to be learned, and at some point you out grow the lathes capability.
kw

D. Taylor Sapergia · « **Reply #14 on:** October 16, 2019, 01:29:31 AM »

Justin: no practice is wasted. But it's good to study how original work was done if that's what you are trying to emulate. Notice how low the dome of the wedding band is, especially in relation to the round part of the barrel. And prior to and often immediately following the band, is a very narrow ring or border, which accentuates the band. Here's one on my Ketland fowling piece for you to check out.

Pukka Bundook · « **Reply #15 on:** October 16, 2019, 05:13:26 AM »

While we are at it Justin, here's a style I like. It's on a gun by Oakes, Horsham.

Make you barrel look like one of the above. Just remove all that doesn't look right.
Best,
R.

Justin Urbantas · « **Reply #16 on:** October 16, 2019, 08:52:59 AM »

Looks like I'll be cutting up a few rifle barrels, and practicing. Those look really nice. The beading on Pukka's is a nice touch.

hen · « **Reply #17 on:** October 16, 2019, 01:39:53 PM »

The main point is to incorporate the tapers; a parallel-sided octagonal section is extremely rare on original barrels and is the most glaring error on the Pedersoli Mortimer shotgun and rifle.

Bob Roller · « **Reply #18 on:** October 16, 2019, 03:03:38 PM »

Quote from: Justin Urbantas on October 15, 2019, 06:19:24 AM

Thanks for the tips guys. You use tap fluid with the file? I haven't used any steel cutters before. Do you need to keep lube on it constantly? I imagine it would heat up pretty quick.

On certain applications I found that threading fluid will help the finish when using
a file.The quality of the file is also a factor. Most of the newer ones lack the keen
cutting ability that was once the hallmark of American and high grade European
files. The inside of a lock plate comes to mind.

Bob Roller

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Author Topic: Practice barrel. (Read 2243 times)

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