cutting in a Wooden patchbox

[George F.]

I'm finally at the point of making my first wooden patch box on my Issac Berlin Smoothie. I've got the area flat where the lid will rest. Is it just time consuming to make the 60 degree dovetails on the stock? One of the books recommends using a slatted block to help keep the angle constant, and then cleaning it up with a safe triangular file. Is this the route I should take. Like anything you do, the first time is always intimidating.   ...Geo.

[rich pierce]

You could copy Tom Curran's beautiful plane.  That would be ideal- but most of us cut them in by hand.

I cut the patchbox cavity first, big enough for a snickers bar and the cavity extending to within 3/8" of the buttplate.  Then I cut a rectangular trough outside the cavity to the intended depth of the dovetails, all the way back to the buttplate.  I get this all regular and flat and sguared up. Then I do the angled cut for the dovetail and the flat for the rails.  I use a straightedge and a knife to get the angle cut started.  You can use a 3 corner file with a safe edge as a guide for the angle.  I do use a 3-corner file to clean it all up (must have a safe edge!).  I get it all done then do the slot in the buttplate last.

I make my dovetails so the edges are not parallel with each other- they pinch together slightly at the wrist end, so that once the lid is backed out the least bit, it loosens easily.

[George F.]

Rich, I have it layed out with a tapered fit for the lid. Lay out the cavity next?Then bring that down to the depth of the bottom of the intended dovetails, then cut your dovetails, is that what you mean?  ...Geo.  ...Also I guess it would be better if I removed the butt plate.

[AndyThomas]

I do this similar to sight dovetails. First a tapered slot is cut into the wood. The slot is 1/16" narrower at the front and the sides are at 90 degrees. Once this slot is perfectly flat, the dovetails are cut with a 3-corner file, which has been ground off square at the front. The front edge of the file is doing the work, the wood is scraped out. It cuts a lot faster than you would think. The bottom side of the file is safe, but actually all the sides could be safe. A dovetail file from Brownells, which has 2 safe sides works well.

Hope this helps,
Andy

[t.caster]

I use a file similar to Andy's. More of a chisel than a file. I don't cut out the "Snickers" cavity until last, drilled with a brace & bit using 7/8 or 1" flat wood bits that I grind down the pilot point smaller.

[rich pierce]

Good points, not sure why I said to cut the cavity first.  been over a year since I did one.

[Stophel]

I lay out the lines on the stock, usually making the opening tapered from about 1 1/2" at the rear to around 1 1/4" close to the front.  Precision is not necessary.  Then I cut the opening, all the way to the bottom.  Then, I take a marking gauge (usually the depth gauge on my calipers) and just lightly mark a line on either side of the opening which will be the depth of my dovetails.  Usually around 1/4", but will vary with the gun.  I cut the dovetails with a chisel by eye.  Stab along the line then back cut down from the outside.  The dovetails do not have to be as sharp an angle as on a three corner file.  Generally, I want them with much less of an angle.  There is a bit of wood remaining at the rear of the opening that I will then cut out to the level of the dovetails and then get the dovetails trued up. 

The lid I make basically the same way.  I make a bit of wood with the same taper as the opening on the stock, mark the dovetails with the gauge, and cut them with a chisel (across the grain, generally) and fit it and the stock dovetails together until it closes all the way.

[Scott Bumpus]

AH HAH!  Snickers bars!! I wondered what you is supposed to keep in there.

[Stophel]

Rich apparently used to hang around with Ron Ehlert...

[George F.]

Well, I have one side nearly done. I started to cut it with a safe file and it was taking forever, so I free handed the dovetail with a 1/2" straight chisel, cleaned up the inside corner removing the chips. Then went at it with the safe file. The one side wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. I initially cut down nearly 1/4" making sure my butt plate had that much flat area on the edge before using  the router. Tomorrow I"ll do the other side, then attempt fitting the bottom  male piece in. Thanks for the tips....Geo.

[Stophel]

Router!! Blasphemy!!

 

[B Shipman]

Power tools are a bad idea here.  Anyway, another point is that the lid should be sloppy  loose. If the metal backer on the lid dovetails perfectly with the buttplate, the lid will be secure when it snaps into place under the slight pressure of the release button and spring. Metal to metal should be as perfect as you can manage ; wood to wood sloppy. Same principle as a ramrod. The rod is held by a catch or a slight curve in the rod; not by a snug fit or you'll find yourself removing it with a pair of pliers on a humid day.