AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: blackdog on April 26, 2010, 06:13:01 PM
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Any body have any expirience with teak oil as a finish? It is supposed to have better uv and moisture resistance than tung oil. Since its used for marine aps its got to be pretty tough.
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As far as I can tell Teak oil is whatever a particular producer says it is, it usually has some linseed oil in it and my understanding of its marine and furniture use is that you reapply frequently. I'm a fan of Permalyn and or Chambers Oil, takes me way too long to build a gun to try any experimenting with finishes
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My experience with it is on outdoor furniture. Best I can tell it never fully dries and that is in Arizona where just about everything drys and quickly. With multiple coats you would probably just get a gooey mess and as Scott said the composition varies from brand to brand.
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Blackdog,
Eric VonAshwege can probaly tell you more due to his experience with boats, but all the teak oils I have seen are sacrificial oils that must be reapplied several times during a season of boating. They do not "cure" or "dry" like you seem to be thinking. They just penetrate into the teak and form a UV and water barrier until the sunlight and water wash them away. On my boat I must reapply oil monthly to keep the teak from turning gray. There was one product Deks Olje which actially did dry like a penetrating varnish. But after 3 years or so it turns a nice opaque black and you have to scrape/sand the teak down. Too many sandings and your teak is gone! So I and every water rat I know went back to traditional teak oil that we lovingly reapply several times per season. I can't see how it would work on a gun.
Best Regards,
JMC
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I've used tons of Daley's Seafin Teak Oil to patch the finish on hardwood floors in hard-used rental units. Worked fabulously for that.
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I had an auxillary cruising sailboat for 10 years. Teak oil works fine for interior use on teak. It does not work for exterior exposure. After trying three different manufacturer's oils, I cleaned all the residue off my exterior teak and left it to bleach. Much of it is highly pigmented. I really would not use it on a gun stock.
Just my .02 worth.
Frog
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Gentlemen, Teak wood by its nature is an oily wood. When 99.9% of the various Teak OIL brands are applied to teak the wood looks nice for a few weeks, but when exposed to the sun it gradually turns toward gray and eventually black. The discoloration of the teak wood is caused by a build up of mold under the oil. The porous nature of teak makes the cleaning job a bear. Once the black surface is sanded the mold must be killed with a 50-50 solution of bleach and water. Kinda a long way to say keep Teak oil of any kind off your gun.
Should you wish a superb home concoction try a 50-50 mix of Tung oil and Linseed oil. For a quicker dry time throw a 45 or 50 cal. lead ball in the mixture. One of the top restoration guys in the country told me this formula. Told me to keep it a secret. HIB
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Are you talking about pure tung oil or one of the tung finishes? I was also talking about teak finish not the pure oil. Apparently from what I have been researching like the watco teak oil is their danish oil with additives for outdoor resistance.
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Should you wish a superb home concoction try a 50-50 mix of Tung oil and Linseed oil. For a quicker dry time throw a 45 or 50 cal. lead ball in the mixture. One of the top restoration guys in the country told me this formula. Told me to keep it a secret. HIB
HIB...is this formula heated/boiled?
John
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Should you wish a superb home concoction try a 50-50 mix of Tung oil and Linseed oil. For a quicker dry time throw a 45 or 50 cal. lead ball in the mixture. One of the top restoration guys in the country told me this formula. Told me to keep it a secret. HIB
HIB...is this formula heated/boiled?
John
Its just mixed SFAIK.
My question would be what version/brand of tung oil is used.
Dan
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John and Dan, The mixture is pure tung oil and boiled linseed oil. I can't see why heating it after thoroughly mixing can hurt. I doubt boiling would accomplish much. Both products came from Woodcrafter's. The tung oil is their 100% pure private brand. When I used it I applied several very thin coats. Actually wiped off the excess vigorously which created a little heat by itself. The trick is to let it dry completely before applying the next coat. Experiment a little and I think you'll be happy. HIB