AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: James on January 15, 2011, 06:51:14 PM
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Hello, I am looking for a photo or drawing that shows how the mechanism on a Figthorn patchbox is constructed. This is my first build and I don't know how to set it up to open from the buttplate. Thanks
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Andreas Fichthorn [Figthorn] Jr. apprenticed with John Bonewitz In Womelsdorf, Pa during the mid and last half of the 1790's. Leonard Reedy was in the Bonewitz shop at the same time and more than half way through his apprenticeship when Fichthorn joined the group. Fichthorn Jr. returned to his home city of Reading in 1803 and for a while continued to make guns in the Womelsdorf/Bonewitz style. His guns are pretty easy to spot even when he did not mark them with his typical A F on the barrel flat opposite the lock.
If you were to have access to any Bonewitz or Reedy release mechanisms you would have the typical design used by Fichthorn Jr. If not I can provide you with all the detail you will need in your build. In addition, I will be happy to share the research I have done on the Fichthorn family.
Please contact me directly using the e-mail address in the ALR info section as the photos I will be sharing with you come from a private collection. HIB
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Here are acouple of photos I have in my archives that are from a rifle that uses a similar release to that of A. Figthorn
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/DaveB44/jpb-002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/DaveB44/131117.jpg
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N Beyer also used this configuration.
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This is a Nicolas Beyer that is owned by Homer Dangler. I was able to hold this one in my hands for a while durring a CLA meeting. As you can see all three of these are very similar to one another. The second one is a Figthorn. The last one is from a Bonewits
(https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv648%2FDaveB44%2Fscan0043.jpg&hash=c137e8fe3bcc6d904d13a8fc3fa37cbda0d1155d)
(https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv648%2FDaveB44%2FPaulsguns039web.jpg&hash=970e6c7bc4277781c1d6a48b489ee8aa0e2359ac)
(https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv648%2FDaveB44%2FDSCN0558.jpg&hash=bac5496c93539f4b33724b09f701bd08da449b19)
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Having no prior experience with BP or longrifles, I have no idea about the patchboxes so thank you one and all for the photos. I think I have it, the release is pushed up, toward the top of the butt-plate to open? The end of the release which is inside the patchbox is fastened how? How is the hook made? Thank you.
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Those are excellent photo's... Yes, the release is pushed up to open. The catch is attached to the lid rivet style by a protrusion on the end (base) of the catch. The lid is slightly counter sunk, the rivet is peened into the counter sink, then filed smooth. Hope that makes sense... Bonewitz and Reedy typically used two such rivets to attach the catch.
Ed
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Here is the layout of what the parts can look like. Note that there is a rounded shank section in the long release spring. You slide the shank through the slot in the butt plate then at the rounded section turn it 90 degrees then secure it to the side wall of the patch box cavity. The Bonewits and Figthorn both use nails through the end of the shank section to keep it in place. The Nicolas Beyer uses a slim sharpened end of the shank section to be driven into the wood shelf you see in the photos. I suspect that the shank penetrates this shelf up to 3/8 of an inch. I built a rifle in the style of Nicolas Beyer using the bird head patchbox design and this very same release. The only difference was the rivet head is only a single stud on the Beyer and no nails use to retain the latch spring. Hope this helps you to Get er Done. The book by Peter Alexander has some great info on building these pieces. I highly recommend it if I was limited to only one book to choose from.
(https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv648%2FDaveB44%2Fscan0045.jpg&hash=5ce3146275130c81ae44a18997fecf3ef1dfdd4f)
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Very helpful drawing Dave B. Thank you! Where to acquire the release is my next question. TOW, Dixie, and MBS all have something similar , but it appears that the thumb button is only a half of what I think it needs to be. Is there a source for a release that is closer to correct or am I to make one? I am looking for the Alexander book, but out of print seems to be the case. Thanks again, with the photos and drawings I understand the construction.
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That's something you'll have to make, don't know any commercial sources. Not difficult to do.
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Could you explain the construction of the button? Is it accomplished by modification of a purchased release?
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The whole spring is forged and filed. It isn't necessary to use spring steel for this, though it results in a springier latch.
Cut a piece of metal suitable for the spring, secure it vertically in your vise with a little sticking up, and forge the head. This head does not sit at 90 degrees to the spring body, but follows the curve of the butt plate, so forging and filing will get you there.
The button's main purpose, or so it seems to me, is to cover up the rectangular slot you've cut in the butt plate. I've seen several Lehigh Valley rifles that have a very similar spring, but there is no head forged on it...just sticks out of the butt plate enough for a finger nail to flick it up.
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Actually it would be best if "spring steel" was used to fashion this spring with because of the location of the release button. Located in the crescent of the butt plate the button can be subject to a lot of "accidental" movement - thereby releasing the patch lid when you don't want it open. A strong spring will help to prevent this as well as a properly fashioned latch on the patchbox lid. That's the way I do it, ;) Hugh Toenjes
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I have some broken coil-springs, of small enough dimension, that I have saved from farm machinery repairs. I think I can use my forge and come up with something close. :) Thanks!
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I thought that the Beyer's that I studied several years ago had a brass head rivited to the end of the spring. That's how I did the three N. Beyers that I have built. Perhaps I am wrong.
Thom
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Thom,
The three Beyers I have seen personally had iron heads on the spring portion. They may have occasionally built them with brass heads. The more I do this the more I learn about the little ins and outs of how they did things. Just like the Hawken rifles you can never say always and never.