AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: Red Owl on January 19, 2011, 07:27:43 PM
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To attach the inlay that is on the cheek piece, what was historically used? Small brass screws filed flush? Brass Pin? Steel Pin? Something else?
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All of the above have been used in the past. I like to make my pins out of the same material as the inlay, although sometimes the contrast is nice, ie: silver inlay with copper, steel or brass pins.
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Red Owl: Most of the time I use pins that have been soldered to the under side if the inlay. The inlay is then free of unsightly holes or pins that go through form one side to the other. ;) Hugh Toenjes
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Red Owl, something else to consider is on occasion, makers would pin their inlays in and then dap the heads into a smooth dome shape. The domes were not filed off, but left standing proud of the surface of the inlay. Cheers, Bookie
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To attach the inlay that is on the cheek piece, what was historically used? Small brass screws filed flush? Brass Pin? Steel Pin? Something else?
If we start with your original question "..what was historically used?" It will eliminate some of the modern "I do it this way" answers you are likely to get.
That doesn't mean the answer will be simpler because when you ask how something was done it brings into play regional style and period.
As Bookie mentioned in some styles of rifle a doomed headed pin would be correct. In some styles iron pins in silver inlays were the way to go. Silver pins in silver inlays and brass pins on brass inlays were probably more common as a general rule.
Gary
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Were thumbpieces always pinned/nailed/screwed in?? Any originals that didn't do it that way??
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Were thumbpieces always pinned/nailed/screwed in?? Any originals that didn't do it that way??
Some English guns had a stud mounted on the thumbpiece which was drilled and tapped. A screw went thru the trigger guard and into the tapped hole.
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Many English thumb pieces had the screw that holed them on entering from below thru the trigger plate. The trigger plate often extends below the rear trigger guard extension. Just so happens I'm making a thumb piece like this right now.
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Interesting....... I am inletting a thumbpiece on a 1750 English rifle and was looking for a way not to booger it up with drill holes and pins......... When I get home tonight I will check out the triggerplate and see what I might do!!
Its the Jack Haugh Thumbpiece that Dave Keck casts and sells.. in white bronze
(https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.knobmountainmuzzleloading.com%2Fimages%2FFancy_thumb.jpg&hash=e81e37e4d61350485faf87d945fe51d68ade2983) SORRY, the picture is upside down at least compared to how Jack used it on one of his fowlers I have pictures of.........
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If it doesn't already have it, silver solder a round stud on the back. Something around 1/4" diameter and 3/16" - 1/4" long should be fine. Run a machine screw similar to a tang bolt up into this from the bottom.
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Red, here is a how to, it maybe helpful to you.
Tim C.
http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=15.msg32#msg32
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Thanks to all. Sometimes I feel sort of sheepish about asking a stupid question but I am always amazed at the response and I am always glad I asked. There are so many replica muzzle loading rifles around that aren't entirely pc that it is often difficult to know what is what and often one just assumes something until thinking it over. Once again- thanks everybody.
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Interesting....... I am inletting a thumbpiece on a 1750 English rifle and was looking for a way not to booger it up with drill holes and pins......... When I get home tonight I will check out the triggerplate and see what I might do!!
Its the Jack Haugh Thumbpiece that Dave Keck casts and sells.. in white bronze
(https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.knobmountainmuzzleloading.com%2Fimages%2FFancy_thumb.jpg&hash=e81e37e4d61350485faf87d945fe51d68ade2983) SORRY, the picture is upside down at least compared to how Jack used it on one of his fowlers I have pictures of.........
Was the casting that clean when you bought it???? Guess I am use to the stuff from Dixie Gunworks from the 60's that look like it came out of the cat box. Only brass color
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Thanks to all. Sometimes I feel sort of sheepish about asking a stupid question but I am always amazed at the response and I am always glad I asked. There are so many replica muzzle loading rifles around that aren't entirely pc that it is often difficult to know what is what and often one just assumes something until thinking it over. Once again- thanks everybody.
I am sure glad you did. Learned alot. Love all the idea's .
Now want to feel stupid ? I will tell you how I did it because I knew no different. Before I tell you yes they look good and no one ever asked. I would inlet the inlay and glue it down. I will no more glue it down.
Thank You all
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Interesting....... I am inletting a thumbpiece on a 1750 English rifle and was looking for a way not to booger it up with drill holes and pins......... When I get home tonight I will check out the triggerplate and see what I might do!!
Its the Jack Haugh Thumbpiece that Dave Keck casts and sells.. in white bronze
(https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.knobmountainmuzzleloading.com%2Fimages%2FFancy_thumb.jpg&hash=e81e37e4d61350485faf87d945fe51d68ade2983) SORRY, the picture is upside down at least compared to how Jack used it on one of his fowlers I have pictures of.........
Was the casting that clean when you bought it???? Guess I am use to the stuff from Dixie Gunworks from the 60's that look like it came out of the cat box. Only brass color
Oh yes.. His castings are beautiful and the brass or white bronze or strrl is good material.
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Red Owl, Sorry for hijacking your thread, but I think for the cheekpiece Acer's example just about says it all!!
Have fun
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Another way to attach things like thumb pieces or those ovals or shields on the bottom of butt stocks is to solder a stud on them and then to set it into the stock with pitch in a corresponding hole. You just heat it up and push it into the pitch. To get them out you apply a hot copper rod to the piece to heat it up enough to soften the pitch.
Tom
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Sorta like 18th century Accra-Glasss eh??