AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Shop Made Tools => Topic started by: LehighBrad on April 15, 2011, 04:33:44 AM
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Can anyone tell me a good method on how to create a nice even and straight molding or trim line along the entire length of my ramrod channel from my entry pipe to the nose cap?? I've heard of a home made tool made from a piece of ram rod dowel with some sort of cutter blade or point in it.
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Find yourself a copy of Recreating the American Longrifle , by Buchele,Shumway and Alexander... Around $40... Lots of good stuff.... Good investment....
Regards
Dave
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Brad,
There are tools available and they are pretty simple to make, but I use 3M pinstriping tape to lay mine out. It sticks too wood good and will bend if you want some squigglies around your entry thimble. Once it's in place, I trace along the edge with an icepick and then with a Dembart Veiner. Why an icepick? It will scratch across the grain where an Xacto knife will often wander. Once my line is set, then I use gouges and round files to mold it.
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Here's a "scratch stock" video tutorial. Make your own. He's only showing one profile--a bead--but you'll see the possibilities for making cutters with other profiles.
http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=31290
I like his simple stock. Nothing more than is necessary. Also note his trick to know when to stop!
This one gives you an idea of how to make the stock, Something Hack sort of passes over in the video.
http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/jThompson/restore/scratchStock/scratchStock1.asp
And here's a nifty little photo tutorial:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?97319-Scratch-Stock-Simple-Easy-Effective-%28Photo-Tutorial%29
And some alternatives, showing small molding profile examples.
http://www.johnlloydfinefurniture.co.uk/files/p%2041-44%20FC%2092%E2%80%A6TECH%20lloyd%20JB.pdf
Not enough? Go to YouTube or google and search "scratch stock." LOTS out there to use as models.
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Great sites! Thanks for sharing.......
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Lehigh,
Here are some scratch stocks I made long ago and a couple of photos of the result. This is from a post on the old board that may be interesting for you to read.
http://americanlongrifles.org/old_board/index.php?topic=9943.0
(https://preview.ibb.co/mrieHH/Scratch_Stock_lowest_res.jpg) (http://ibb.co/gh48Bc)
(https://preview.ibb.co/esV4jx/Molding_Scraper_lowest_res.jpg) (http://ibb.co/fYparc)
(https://preview.ibb.co/eRS6xH/Butt_Molding_lowest_Res.jpg) (http://ibb.co/mO76xH)
(https://preview.ibb.co/dBvgWc/Stock_Molding_lowest_Res.jpg) (http://ibb.co/mdRYcH)
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Looks like nice work Davec2, what is the thicknes of the material you used for the cutter? Smylee
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I don't know if its HC or not, but I use a file to cut simple molding lines on the fore end as well as the relief line along the toe to wrist line of the buttstock and on the cheek piece. Draw out a line and drag the edge of a halfround file over it lengthwise. Go slow at first, while you are just scratching the line, then when it becomes a cut line, you can increase the depth of the cut more quickly, once you are "in the groove" :). I won't say you can't get a crooked line, but the length of the file makes it easier to stay straight. If the file is tapered, it will make the initial cut a little trickier, but it will also allow you to "fade" the line out toward the end. You can also modify the profile of the cut depending on how you hold the file and which side of the half round you use "up or down". Obviously, other file shapes can be used as well. The triangular file makes a very nice, simple incised line for example. This works for straight lines only -- but it eliminates a lot of the work; if you need a curlicue or curve to terminate, then you have only a very little "carving" to do freehand.
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Cutter material? Old handsaw blades. Cut, file, polish, use.
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Somewhere on the old board was a discusion about a tool to cut a simple straight scratch line molding. It consisted of a block of hardwood and a flat head counter sunk screw head. The slot of the screw head acted as the cutter. You slide the block of wood along the barrel channel or ram rod channel, you can adjust the placement of the scratch line, by turning the screw in or out. Crude but effective.
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The flathead screw trick? Looks like this--note the profile of the groove. It works, but it's limited in usefulness and appeal, IMHO. Fits the "quick and dirty" category.
http://books.google.com/books?id=jLXYONelHn8C&pg=PA52&lpg=PA52&dq=flathead+screw+scratch+stock&source=bl&ots=0MstLnjyGC&sig=O0Pr_WUFP2dl_0HCDX8-DcRQ-Ew&hl=en&ei=JuipTYuoOpPTiAKlz9DvDA&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CBgQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false