AmericanLongRifles Forums

General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: billd on October 22, 2011, 05:57:18 AM

Title: drying wood
Post by: billd on October 22, 2011, 05:57:18 AM

Here's a link to a US Forestry web site about drying small quantities of wood for personal use.


http://nrs.fs.fed.us/pubs/rp/rp_nc228.pdf

Title: Re: drying wood
Post by: Glenn on October 22, 2011, 06:56:20 AM

Good information.  Thanks for posting.

Title: Re: drying wood
Post by: Dphariss on October 22, 2011, 02:49:36 PM

I did not read the entire article but people need to understand that moisture content alone is not a good criteria for determining the usability of a piece of wood for a gunstock.
The wood needs to be dry of course  but  it needs to be stable as well. Dry is easy, stable takes longer.

Dan

Title: Re: drying wood
Post by: valongrifles on October 23, 2011, 02:17:50 AM

Browning Arms once had a trial with drying wood by placing the wood for stocks in a room with salt to "draw the moisture" from the wood. It worked, but not well. I remember several friends that had received T-Bolts and noticed the metal was rusting near the edges. Upon removing the actions the rust was quite extensive. Browning made good on warranties, but to this day you still run across T-Bolts at shows that exhibit rust in the covered metal, underneath barrel, in action, etc. When listed, some older 60's Brownings will be listed as "not salt stock". Time is still the tried and true wood dryer, but kilns do just as well, a lot quicker.

Title: Re: drying wood
Post by: Joey R on October 23, 2011, 05:24:53 AM

Browning had the same problem with the Superposed shotguns. I had a T-bolt and a Superposed that were "Salt Guns", Lucky Me.