AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: okawbow on July 20, 2013, 09:39:09 PM
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Had a few parts lying around, such as a walnut half stock, a brass butt plate, single trigger, and materials to make thimbles and a trigger plate. I decided to try and make a turkey/waterfowl gun for under $200 more in cash outlay. Bought a $30.00 12ga round tapered 30" barrel from a forum member. Also got a flintlock from "The Hawken Shop" for $102.00. I'll need to get a barrel rib, lower thimble, and trigger guard for under $68.00 to meet my goal.
The lock was a pleasant surprise. It is fitted and polished and smooth as butter! Sparks great. Has a roller on the frizzen, and a fly on the tumbler. A very well made lock for that price. The only thing I will do to it, is stone the bottom of the frizzen and the top edge of the pan to get a little better fit. It is ok now, but I can see a little light between the pan and frizzen when closed.
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P7200376 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/20524843@N03/9327054127/) by okawbow (http://www.flickr.com/people/20524843@N03/), on Flickr
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P7200377 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/20524843@N03/9329856746/) by okawbow (http://www.flickr.com/people/20524843@N03/), on Flickr
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P7200378 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/20524843@N03/9329864266/) by okawbow (http://www.flickr.com/people/20524843@N03/), on Flickr
I'll probably do a poured tin nose cap. What kind of side plate would look right?
Ant other suggestions?
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You have a nice looking peace of wood, why hide it with a sideplate? Use brass washers that is about an 1/8in. larger than the lock bolts head. 8) Alan
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I agree, no sideplate. I'd forget the ramrod entry pipe, and go for a wood underrib. Why not a simple sheet brass trigger guard? If you didn't already have a buttplate, just toe and heel plates and maybe checker the butt...
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How is a wooden rib attached to a thin round barrel? Lugs soldered on?
I have a nice cast brass butt plate I bought at a yard sale for $5.00. I feel I should use a matching trigger guard. I saw one on the R. E. Davis site that looks like a good fit for under $10.00.
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Underlugs for wooden under ribs, are usually attached to thin, folded metal, lugs, that are soldered to the under side of the barrel. I have seen more of these on half stocked squirrel rifles than fowlers, and , these were usually dovetailed, instead of soldered. I am sure they were used on fowlers as well. this was a method of making, and using, an under rib when the machine tools, and the means of successfully completing a large sweat soldered joint weren't possible. Often fullstocks with broken forearms were made into half stocks by utilizing the existing barrel lugs, and replacing the forearm with a wooden rib.
Hungry Horse
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Chuck, Likely some of that osage orange you have lying around would make a good solid underrib. ;) Enjoy, J.D.
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I was wondering if hickory was used as a rib? I would think walnut might be a little weak.
Osage would sure be strong, but might look out of place.
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I have done a few wooden underribs, usually using the same wood as the stock. Depending on the barrel, I either dove tail or solder studs to the barrel every three inches and pin the rib to them. I have never used Osage for this but have made many bows from this wood. It is very tough and without any staining will, turn a beautiful aged bronze color when exposed to the sun.
Robby
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The walnut would look best, I suppose. Would sure be easier to shape. Every 3" is a lot of pins.
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A nice dense piece of wood would be good. Apple, pear, sugar maple.
Exotics like rosewood, ebony and pernambuco would be nice, but not H.C. Also might push the $ limit up too much.
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I actually have a suitable piece of ebony left over from a cello build. However; I'd like to use parts that were used by gunsmiths in the 1820's for actual fowlers built then. I also have some nice, dark persimmon wood. It was certainly available then.
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I'd skip the under rib and just solder a pipe to the barrel. Skip the buttplate too. That's how I'd make my own hunting gun.....
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I'd skip the under rib and just solder a pipe to the barrel. Skip the buttplate too. That's how I'd make my own hunting gun.....
Yes, do it German or French style and skip the rib altogether.
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Any pictures of fowlers built like that?
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Started on the gun this past week. I inlet the barrel and tang by hand, narrowed the stock blank, and inlet the lock plate.
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P7280391 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/20524843@N03/9389164756/) by okawbow (http://www.flickr.com/people/20524843@N03/), on Flickr
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P7280392 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/20524843@N03/9389159086/) by okawbow (http://www.flickr.com/people/20524843@N03/), on Flickr
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P7280393 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/20524843@N03/9386379519/) by okawbow (http://www.flickr.com/people/20524843@N03/), on Flickr
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Any pictures of fowlers built like that?
(https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi48.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff213%2Fshane2841%2FGun%2520Crap%2Fpistorschmalkaldenbolkantiques-02.jpg&hash=def02c36b940c9dd44deac9aab807c20cfab1db3)
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Looks like yiu have all the bones for a fine halfstock. If you spring for a metal under-rib, I'll give you a good piece of water buff horn to make a proper fore end tip. go for the English look!
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I like the looks of the top picture for the rod thimbles. My barrel is only 30", so I would use 2 instead of three. I also like the idea of a steel ramrod. Where was that gun made?
Thanks much for the buff horn offer Ed. I may take you up on that. I also have some ebony that would look good.
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Horn is HC.
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I've been working quite a bit on the gun lately. And, while I realize it is not a longrifle; I thought some would be interested in my progress. I'm kind of building it like I think a riflesmith might have built a fowler, if he'd not seen too many.
I still need to pour or make a nosecap. I proofed the barrel already with over 200 grains 2f, and a double shot charge. I'm still under $200.00 so far, but very close. The gun weighs 5#5oz so far.
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P8110400 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/20524843@N03/9491719458/) by okawbow (http://www.flickr.com/people/20524843@N03/), on Flickr
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P8110395 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/20524843@N03/9488871965/) by okawbow (http://www.flickr.com/people/20524843@N03/), on Flickr
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P8110398 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/20524843@N03/9491703846/) by okawbow (http://www.flickr.com/people/20524843@N03/), on Flickr
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P8110397 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/20524843@N03/9488895143/) by okawbow (http://www.flickr.com/people/20524843@N03/), on Flickr
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P8110396 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/20524843@N03/9488885977/) by okawbow (http://www.flickr.com/people/20524843@N03/), on Flickr
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A rite fine lookin job so far okabow.The single pipe on the barrel has a nice look,and the overall shape and layout looks good ,too.I kije to do budget restrained projects,too.Tends to give one the motivation to make our own parts when possible.Keep us up to date.Best regards,Dave
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I've started the finishing process, with a couple coats of linseed oil thinned with turpentine, and a few drops of Epiphanes oil varnish added. I'll do many more coats before it's done. The barrel and lock will be polished and either left bright or ? I'm open to suggestions about what would look good.
Click on picture to go to Flickr, then scroll left for more views.
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P8160401 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/20524843@N03/9524795498/) by okawbow (http://www.flickr.com/people/20524843@N03/), on Flickr
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I really like it, you have done a very nice job. I would have gone for a pin in the fore stock just because the "key" looks more modern to my eye. But hey, that's just me.
Why not go for a cold blue? You could blue the lock and barrel with cold blue, then go back over it lightly with fine steel wool to give it that old gun metal gray look. That bright finish is hard to maintain especially if you are going to be hunting with it in any kind of weather.
Whatever you do I must say again that I really like it. Thanks for sharing it.
Chris
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That is one sweet little 12 okawbow, Strange how some people so far apart can think along the same lines. Here's yours little sister, 28 bore X 36" Christian bbl. walnut 1/2 stock, going to have a Chambers little Qn. Anne lock Tom
(https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1283.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa555%2FTomKnight43%2F28%2520Bore%2520Flint%2520Fowler%2F28borefowler-48_zps59b09589.jpg&hash=8faf24ac15d84d21873f093b3d02384e584add8f) (http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/TomKnight43/media/28%20Bore%20Flint%20Fowler/28borefowler-48_zps59b09589.jpg.html)
Click to see album
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Should be a dandy. Can't wait to get after some doves with mine.
Chuck
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Hey gunmaker Tom,the only time my workbench gets clean like yours is when I am taking pics on it.Nice lookin bench,fowler project.
okabow,that 200.00 fowler sure came out nice.I would vote for cold blue for same reasons.I left mine in the old original browned patina.hard to beat 100 plus years of natural finish.best regards to ya both,Dave
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Well if you have servants or a visiting gunsmith who can keep the metal polished and burnished I would leave it bright.. Just for looks... for hunting I would go ahead and brown it.. It is very nice....and the price is right.
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Looks very nice.
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Including the original cost for the wood, 40 years ago, ($5.00), and the yard sale buttplate, ($5.00), the total cost of barrel, lock, triggerguard, trigger, lower thimble casting, screws, and brass, was $199.00.
The build took 1 month, and probably about 80 hours, although, it's sometimes hard to keep track of the time involved. My last build, a 36 cal Bedford co. rifle, took 25 years to complete.
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In response to leaving the lock bright; I like to paint with phosphoric acid (sold as rust remover). Leaves a gray finish that is sort of rust resistant. Most marinas and boat supply places around here have it. Also sold as Naval jelly I think.
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Thanks, I'll consider that.
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Tried mustard on the steel, and I think it turned out ok. Leaves a nice old steel finish.
Shot the gun today and found the recoil to be tolerable with 1 1/3 ounces shot, and 80 grains 2F. The most even patterns were 1 1/8th shot and 70 grains 2F. Should be ok for turkeys, as the 30 yard targets show.
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P8200427 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/20524843@N03/9558901052/) by okawbow (http://www.flickr.com/people/20524843@N03/), on Flickr
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P8200426 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/20524843@N03/9558912492/) by okawbow (http://www.flickr.com/people/20524843@N03/), on Flickr
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Great job! I really like this, it reminds of a "hawken" fowler in a way.
Ill give you 200 for it haha ;) thats a profit for ya!
Cheers, McLean