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General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: Ky-Flinter on July 11, 2008, 07:11:34 PM

Title: Needs some ideas for Oak stain and finish
Post by: Ky-Flinter on July 11, 2008, 07:11:34 PM
Moderator: I thought this topic would get more responses here, but if it needs to be moved, no problem.

I got tired of lugging my shooting gear around in an old metal tool box and hiding it at rondy's, so I built a dove-tailed box out of oak.  Need some ideas for stain and finish to use. 

I don't want it too dark, medium brown maybe, where the grain can still be seen.

What does aquafortis do on oak?  I can try it on some scraps this weekend, but if it's ugly, I won't bother.

Any suggestions will be appreciated.

-Ron
Title: Re: Needs some ideas for Oak stain and finish
Post by: Metalshaper on July 11, 2008, 07:46:50 PM
look up ammonia fuming.. there is a furniture making techique, that uses ammonia ( and its fumes ) to stain.

here is a link from the Rockler site

http://www.rockler.com/blog/index.cfm?commentID=210

if you can find the right strength NH4OH..it shouldn't be that hard to rig up a chamber? 

Hope this helps?

Respect Always
Metalshaper
Title: Re: Needs some ideas for Oak stain and finish
Post by: Dphariss on July 11, 2008, 07:48:58 PM
AF works fine on Oak in my experience.  I would test it if you have some before going into something you have to find or make.

Dan
Title: Re: Needs some ideas for Oak stain and finish
Post by: E.vonAschwege on July 11, 2008, 07:52:16 PM
Hey Ron,
   We recently stained and finished our oak stairs in the house.  Until I got into gunsmithing all I knew about stains was what was available at Home Depot... Minwax, yuck.  Avoid it like the plague.  Mom picked up a couple cans of Minwax to do the stairs with and it looked like paint.  I had some extra LMF stains laying around that I never really use, so I offered to mix them up and stain with that instead.  I used a can of LMF Lancaster Maple mixed with 1/4 can of Honey Maple, then diluted with alcohol.  I was able to stain 13 large stairs and still have a lot leftover.  I used a foam brush to apply it, then I used a rag (damp with alcohol) to rub the stair down and blend things out.  For a finish I thinned some Epifanes "Rubbed Effect" varnish and applied with a brush.  The rubbed effect varnish dries quickly and is really durable.  

    I found Aquafortis on Oak will turn a dark dark brown, almost black, with greenish hues sometimes.  Oak is loaded with tannins that react to the stain.  

    If you go with LMF stains, don't sand your box too fine... 220 at most.  If you go any finer the stain won't darken the dense areas of the oak.  Hope this helps!

Sorry the stairs are a little dusty... We've had loads of company this week.    

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Title: Re: Needs some ideas for Oak stain and finish
Post by: TENdriver on July 12, 2008, 04:11:59 AM
Is LMF a dye or a stain?  If it's a dye, then that box will fade.

Not sure if the fuming is light fugitive or not.  I would suspect that fuming would last longer than dye but you need a really strong concentration for it to work well.

Did you consider leaving the box in a natural oak with just an oil type finish that darkens with age?
Title: Re: Needs some ideas for Oak stain and finish
Post by: Rick on July 12, 2008, 04:09:03 PM
Spray on some Easy Off oven cleaner.  This is what it does to curly white oak.  I spray it on, rinse it off with water, taking the obvious precautions, then let it dry.  This raises the grain, so you'll have to take that into account.  Rick

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Title: Re: Needs some ideas for Oak stain and finish
Post by: 44-henry on July 12, 2008, 08:58:57 PM
Buy a can of orange shellac from your local hardware store, I've used this on oak many times and than sprayed a protective top coat.