AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: Dave R on March 03, 2015, 03:55:43 AM
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I purchased a used 50 cal flint muzzleloader years ago from a nice widow woman, I shot it yesterday a couple of times then had an accidental firing from full cock , After removing the lock I discovered it would fire with only a slight jar while on full cock! Disassembling it I found the sear nose badly worn as well as the full cock notch!! This gun has very little wear with a perfect bore, The sear nose and tumbler are a little soft, I can hone the sear and full cock notch to achieve proper contact, My question should I hone harden etc are those parts not of good enough quality steel to stay hardened ? Or is there a better quality sear and tumbler that would be available and bolt on with no modifications?
Thanks in advance!!
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Back in the 60's, I had this issue with Dixie locks on occasion. As you noted, I honed the sear and tumbler, then using a propane torch and casehardening compound, casehardened the sear and tumbler. I would have no more issues with that lock. I don't think poor steel is an issue with casehardening. You may try to temper the parts first and see if they can be hardened in the normal manner. If not, caseharden them We used to use Casenit, but I understand it is no longer available. Someone else can tell you what is used today as I don't know.
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I had a similar problem recently. I found that the sear spring had weakened through the years causing an occasional surprise. Put the new spring in and, no problems since.
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Push comes to shove, you can replace it with a Chambers "gunmakers" lock. It has a rectangle plate and can be filed to match up yours. Try truing up notches, sear nose & case harden first........Tom
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I'm with gunmaker on this one. I'd replace it with a gunmaker's lock or any other quality lock that you can make work/fit
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I think this is the same lock used on the Hatfield rifle, made by both the American company, and the Italian copies. I recall seeing advertisements for replacement locks, and parts, in the want adds section of Muzzle Blasts.
I've built several guns in the past with these locks, and found them to be pretty good locks, with a little fine tuning.
Hungry Horse
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Seems the simplest solution would be to hone it down to where you want it and case harden. You can substitute charcoal dust for Kasenit, or the charred remains of leather and bone, heck I remember reading that our POW's used sugar to case harden mild steel to use as wire cutters.
Robby
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A picture of the lock would help a lot. Dixie carried several different ones. The one we've seen most commonly was that one that looked a knock off of the old hardware store locks. They also had one that was looked similar to an early Ketland that was about 5 3/4" long.
As far contacting the guy who advertises in Muzzleblasts, his name is Richard Beauchamp and he can be contacted here: http://www.flintlocksetc.com/.
I've talked with him before and found that the import locks and parts were fairly expensive. If it is the Italian lock used on the Hatfield and Blueridge rifle, and it couldn't be repaired without buying parts, I would likely replace it with the one L&R has in their RPL line now. It can be purchased through or Track of the Wolf and others.
Enjoy, J.D.
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I had a similar problem recently. I found that the sear spring had weakened through the years causing an occasional surprise. Put the new spring in and, no problems since.
A lock should never have to rely on the sear spring holding the sear in place. It's only job should be to put the sear in place, then the geometry of the angles with pressure from the main spring should keep it there until the trigger forces it to release and fire the gun, or cycle the action. Your gun is still a danger.
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Do an ebay search for Dixie Gun Works Flintlock.....there are two that are similar to late Ketland locks.....$85 buy it now each.
Both look to be in nice condition, but one has obviously been installed on a gun based on the threaded hole in the bolster.
Enjoy, J.D.