AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Black Powder Shooting => Topic started by: mossyhorn on January 27, 2016, 09:16:28 PM
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Where can I find "tow" and is it as good or better than cleaning with patch and jag?
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I think Track of the Wolf sells tow.
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I would only use tow and a worm in doing a historical demonstration. In my judgement a jag and patch does a much better job.
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Jas. Townsend sells bags of it, enough for plenty of cleaning and fire starting.
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As stated in my tutorial on this site, I use nothing else since I started using it. Its quicker, leaves no after rust, more authentic, and is washable and reusable. Here is my tutorial and places to get tow.
http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=24312.0
http://cabincreek.net/revspec/accouterments/
http://www.woolery.com/Store/pc/Flax-Tow-1-lb-p5139.htm#.VqkrGFKzkUx
http://flaxforsale.com/html/the_store.html
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I have gotten it from TOW, and once, when they were out, I got some on eBay. Not as good. You could also shread some jute or hemp rope or heavy twine, wash it several times, then try it... wash more if needed. I've actually done that and I probably won't buy any more.
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I very seriously doubt I'll ever go back to jags and patches. Ever.
I bought a pound of tow from a fiber for spinning supplier on Ebay. It was cheap. I reuse it. I'll probably never have to purchase tow again. (look for spinning fiber, flax)
A single tow worm can be used in many calibers.
Nate McKenzie's information was helpful for me to make this transition.
Only patches I need go under the ball, jags are history, brushes/scrapers never were, water is solvent.
Pick your own water displacement oil/substance, there are many and everyone likes to add his/her twist. ;)
+++edit: here's a source, this is what you want. http://www.woolery.com/store/pc/Flax-Tow-1-lb-p5139.htm#.Vro8Y0KrfEg
It's a bit higher than I paid, but a little goes a long way. Many shooters could probably share that to see how they like it. If any choose to not use it, could give it to other curious shooter to try.
I just weighed the tow from my last cleaning session- 6 grams. That's just under a 1/4 of one ounce or 1/64th of a pound. Most of that 6 grams had been used before.
I'd rather plant and grow flax, and then whoop the stalks into tow/fiber than to return to patches and jags for cleaning.
(https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.woolery.com%2Fstore%2Fpc%2Fcatalog%2FDKF-3.detail.jpg&hash=897bfa92265cd6b707d0a706641c224a7b25cd72)
photo credit: the catalog listing above
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Alright!! Another convert. I heartily agree with your view on patches and jags.
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Where can I get a worm that will fit a .40 cal. barrel and also be used on larger barrels. I would prefer an 8-32 thread for my stainless rod.
also have a wooden rod with male threads that are larger than 10-32.
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Smiling Fox Forge sells a worm that screws onto your ramrod for .40 through .58 for $20 or so. Or, you can buy a tapered spring that grips a wooden ramrod for $3.50 from Smiling Fox or Track.
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I looked at Nate's tutorial on cleaning with tow. I understand how it all works but what about the water that gets on the stock and between the stock and barrel? Are you removing the barrel each time?
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"Or, you can buy a tapered spring that grips a wooden ramrod for $3.50 from Smiling Fox or Track."
I have used several of these springs, my initial concern was having the spring fall off down in the barrel - while in reality I have found the spring gets so tight on the ramrod I need pliers to almost unwrap the thing to get it loose.
I wish our ancestors were more explicit in recording how they accomplished such mundane tasks.
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my initial concern was having the spring fall off down in the barrel -
I have had a tapered spring come off, but I sent a patch worm down and it engaged the spring loops and tow and retrieved everything nicely. Without the ramrod inside the spring, there didn't seem to be a lot of tension between barrel and spring/tow. Usually, though, R2D2, I have to work a bit to get the spring off.
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Here you go if you can't make your own 'tools'.
Here's a place what's, got so much of this $#@* (much needed, just like a good one now and then), they sell it.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/121/1
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I looked at Nate's tutorial on cleaning with tow. I understand how it all works but what about the water that gets on the stock and between the stock and barrel? Are you removing the barrel each time?
I use a small funnel and have a marked jar for the volume of my bbl. IOW I reduce my chances of spilling water over the muzzle. Then I only have to worry about seepage from the touch-hole plug. I use a broken toothpick for that. (two plugs one pick, no snagging).
SO there's no water going between the bbl and stock. The lock is off the gun.
Here's where I got my worm: http://www.ebay.com/itm/tow-worm-cleaning-jag-40-to-58-caliber8-32-male-threads-/371279734242?hash=item5671ff25e2:m:mq0Ro3KS5LFGxk16BVyi_hA
If you've got the tools/skills, make a few of 'em. ;)
@Nate-yes fully converted thanks. Your info helped a lot and also years of cleaning with jags and patches made me READY for change. ;)
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I use a small funnel and have a marked jar for the volume of my bbl. IOW I reduce my chances of spilling water over the muzzle. Then I only have to worry about seepage from the touch-hole plug. I use a broken toothpick for that. (two plugs one pick, no snagging).
SO there's no water going between the bbl and stock. The lock is off the gun.
Thank you for the information. I think I will give it a try. I have used patches & jags and brushes for 20 years. Never too late to try something new.
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Question on cleaning with tow. How tight a fit in the barrel do you make the ball of tow for cleaning?
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Question on cleaning with tow. How tight a fit in the barrel do you make the ball of tow for cleaning?
As tight as you like. It's an easy adjustment of a non-critical dimension. Usually tighter as the bbl gets clean and looser when mopping with oil after clean. Never thought about it much.
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Question on cleaning with tow. How tight a fit in the barrel do you make the ball of tow for cleaning?
As tight as you like. It's an easy adjustment of a non-critical dimension. Usually tighter as the bbl gets clean and looser when mopping with oil after clean. Never thought about it much.
Thank you. Have a worm and tow incoming and will try this out. simpler the better!
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Hey Wade: another method to try, if you can gamble $2 is slip down to your local farm & ranch supply store, wander down the isle to the equine/bovine doctorin' section and purchase a large 60ml clear, plastic syringe. My last one was $1.99 and for $2.19 you get it in a thin plastic sheath to store it. I have a neat, little copper funnel that works good for powder into horns, but for water it blocks my view of when full at muzzle. Navy jet engines, chainsaws and anvils didn't help my hearing(or was that my fault) so sometimes pouring water down the muzzle I don't hear the tone change as it comes up approaching FULL and I don't like water spilling either. I've tried wrapping a rag, too and back when I "borrowed' the Boss's tea kettle of hot water I also burnt my hand when the barrel filled. My .54 hunting rifle with a swamped 44" Rice holds 3 syringes of water, my .32 Bedford a LOT less, but I can carefully bring the water up to the crown without slobbering &/or mumbling little 4-letter words. Since I quit hot water, I use a plain, brown plastic Yuban coffee can (like wide-mouth) to draw tap water into the syringe then easily fill 'er up and stand her in the corner to meditate the fowling. Less exciting than 50 mls of penecilin into an injured horse's hind quarter every morning.
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Hey Wade: another method to try, if you can gamble $2 is ...
Probably a few of those over at the farm where equine and bovine beasts roam. I'll give a looksee. thanks.
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I don't know about plumbing practices in the USA but here tow is readily found in hanks for the use of plumbers. For sealing joints used with linseed oil putty. Great stuff. I have used it when teflon tape just isn't working and to seal pipe joints without removing them. For rifles I use cut up baby wipe patches but tow for the musket. My worm is some old coil spring I found in my barn screwed onto a piece of dowel.
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Could Oakum be used as a substitute for tow?
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Another "plus" for tow is that it can be put into a bag and run through the washing machine, to be used again. How's that for cheap?
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Could Oakum be used as a substitute for tow?
Probably could be used but if I remember correctly the strands are fairly large and I am not sure the oakum would clean the corner of the grooves as good a tow which is good flax tow, which is finer strands. Lots of places on the internet to buy tow and its not very expensive.
Dennis
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For those of long pockets and short arms and a wife/relative etc. who spins wool. The same carding tools or a carding machine will transform your matted washed tow back to fluffiness in just the same way. Rub the carding handles together or turn the handle on the machine and they will transform your matted dried washed tow into separate aligned strands and then you can ease them off as a fluffy (for a given degree of fluffy) mat all ready for reuse. I bought one large hank of plumbers tow two years ago for my musket. I am still using the first quarter of the hank.
Two scrubs with sopping wet tow to hoist out the majority of the fouling and wet the rest then several passes with dry tow to scour out the remains and dry off the barrel. Clean barrel and no rusting. The service 0.685" ball in a proper paper cartridge allows so much windage that I can use the cheapest dirty powder with no fouling problems. Even in my reduced bore 0.733" Pattern 1841 artillery carbine as well as the 0.760" 1843 HEIC musket.