AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: hortonstn on May 14, 2016, 05:17:49 AM
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Any one use a ferriers rasp for stock shaping?
Is it as good as a 49 or 59 cabinet rasp
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Generally too coarse for me. Takes too mutch time to get the scratches out. I like drawknives and spoke shaves, gouges and chisels.
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A ferriers rasp is much courser than a 49. I've used one on wood and it removes a lot of wood quickly but leaves a very rough surface and can leave tear outs.
-Ron
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Stan,
I use one for hogging off wood. As mentioned, it can leave a rough surface. I just leave enough wood to smooth it off with a #49 or a file.
Curtis
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Yes, I use one. Just watch your grain and a light touch when you near finish size.
Mark
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I prefer a #49
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What everybody said. It's big and rough and can make nasty a surface. BUT they're cheap and locally available and can be useful/might suit your hand better than some.
I say try one out-on hardwood scrap, or your blank before anything gets _near_ dimension. They just shred soft woods.
A #49/50 or similar isn't quite in the same category. Like comparing 40-grit sandpaper to 120. I'd get the cabinet rasp if I could only have one.
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It is good to have one in your file collection. Remember, they have two sides. I've had a couple of blanks that were so hard that regular rasps just skidded across like a file on hardened steel. It took the coarse side of a ferrier's rasp to work the blank down.
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I do most gross wood removal with a big chisel and mallet. Rasps are for final shaping. Unless of course you have alot of extra time on your hands....
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I keep one around and use it occasionally. Use caution, it removes wood faster than any wood rasp I own.
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Thanks for the comments I've been using a 50 nick because I'm afraid I'd cut to fast and mess up I think I'll stay slow and save my self a lot of aggravation after all the turtle did win
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I use a ferriers rasp a lot . They work real well for parliamentary shaping .
As was said , they take a lot of wood off quick . I have never had a sharp one tear the wood . However I also pay attention to grain and rasp with the grain not against it .
Good Ferrier rasps should also have 2 sides . A course and a fine.
The fine side being courser then a cabinet rasp.
Use the finer side for clean up then progress to a smaller rasp , then files and scrapers .
On softer woods like English walnut or red or big leaf maple , I shape using my older Ferrier rasps that have began to get on the dull side .
In fact I have a couple which were give to me because the were getting to dull to use for shoeing ..
If your building from a precarve , I would not use one . But if your staring from a plank and working the wood down to a general shape , then they work wonderfully IMO
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I agree with the #49 ;D
At a local gunsmithing school in the last century ::), we had to square up our first stock blank to the " professors" specs using a try square, jack plane. and a farriers rasp...I have not seen mine since.
Just my 2d worth. 8) Shreck ( NOT Meister )
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Get one, farriers rasp that is. Useful. Pressure determine the depth of the cut, which is a big duh, of course. I bought a used one for a dollar. Best dollar spent so far on tools.
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I hate rasps on wood. I shaped with handsaw, chisels, gouges and course file. The very last gonne I built I finished with cabinet scrapers. I wish I had done that with ALL my rifles, smoothbores and pistols.
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I have not used them for rifle stocks but I do use them for carving axe handles a lot. It is definitely a tool worth owning
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Instead of a rasp, try a Vixon file such as used for auto body work. They will really peel the wood off in a hurry and not leave a rough surface.
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Used my ferrier's rasp extensively again today - it's a fantastic tool to have in your toolkit! As with any hand tool, you just have to read how it's interacting with the wood.
Curtia