AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: Turtle on December 22, 2016, 03:29:28 PM
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When I inlet the lockplate I am very carful to locate it so the touchhole is in the perfect position before I cut wood. Often, after it is fully inlet, it has mysteriously moved! haunted workshop? Ancient curse?
Ever happen to you?
Merry Christmas, Turtle
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One way to avoid this problem is to wait until you're ready to put the final finish on the barrel and stock and then drill your touch-hole. Make sure to have the barrel pinned and screwed down when locating final TH.
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Hi Turtle, when my guns are finished in the white the touch hole is the last thing i do! Mark it twice and check it again!! :) :) Merry Christmas to all!! Chubby
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More likely the barrel is wandering than the lock plate.
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I agree that the TH or liner should be installed after the lock inletting is completely done and the bbl pinned and tapped back against the wood.
Just a thought ....was wondering if parallax could be the culprit. When first starting the inlet, the pan is a ways from the bbl and if the "eye" is off to one side it'll give a "false" lineup between the pan center and the center punch for the TH or liner.
I think this happened to me and had to move the center punch.....Fred
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I measure and mark the location of the face of the breech plug on the side flat of the barrel, and use that as a reference to determing where to inlet my lock plate. I install the touch hole and sights just before I sign the barrel and finish the metal at the end of the build. That way I know everything is in place and the only variable would be my ability to drill and tap the hole in the correct location. Good luck with your build.
Roger Sells
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The holle is the very last thing I do before final polish of the barrel. Once I had the drill bit catch the front of the plug. Had to remove the plug and file a channel on the face. Had to repolish the barrel.
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I usually install the liner before I inlet the barrel so that I have the touch hole as a reference. Sure, the alignment is never perfect, but it isn't likely to be no matter what order you do it in . When inletting the lock, setting the hole for the sear is the touchiest part. You have to hold the lock as parallel to the stock as possible when sighting across the top of the pan to the touch hole. However, if you get it close, it usually gives you a little room for adjusting the plate position as you inlet the lock. Once I get the plate resting on the stock, I can usually move it a little to get it centered pretty well on the touch hole. If the touch hole is a little high or a little low, it won't affect the operation. I just get it close and don't worry about it.
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I don't drill it until after, I just make a center punch in the spot I want. I still think it's spooks. there is also no consisantcy in the direction it's off.
Turtle
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Whether you do it first or last, you have to visually align the hole with the lock pan. There are all sorts of ways to introduce error there. So, that error will be random in all directions. You add error to the process if you install the liner last because you can get that off center through the drill bits wandering. A lot of things have to go right for a perfectly aligned touchhole, and they almost never do.
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Yes. It has happened to me. Caused by a wandering drill bit. Are you using a drill press?
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You may not be sinking the plate straight down. I have had the plate hang on a spot at the top. Then I caught myself starting to take wood off the bottom of the inlet to free it up. Fortunately I stopped and took a good look at where it was hanging before removing any wood. This can cause the plate to wander a bit.
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I do as Rodger has described. That's always worked for me..........Bob
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I also do as roger does and don't actually drill/install touchhole/liner until ready to finish the barrel.
Dennis
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I've learned to "wiggle" the punch mark when seeking ultimate alignment. IOW, I'm not locked in to my indicated location before a hole is drilled. Striking a small centerpunch at an angle will move the dimple, shift as necessary before drilling.
I use an "ACP" or internally sprung automatic center punch.
Also, imperfection is perfection.
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I find marking the barrel with the breech face to be my reference point for the lock which tells me where the touch hole should go. The lock elevation is a balance between trigger position, front lock bolt position and barrel exposure above the stock.
In a perfect world I want the touch hole (center of liner) center of pan, level with top of pan, 1/8" in front of breech face, center of the barrel flat. The only way I can come close is by drawing a plan, following the plan, and installing the barrel first.
I find no mystical forces moving parts- just me .
Kevin
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What`s a touch hole?
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The hole in the liner that touches off igninition
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Turtle, as far as wondering lock plates go, I've had tumbling tumblers, thimbles and triggers. Unbridled bridles, tiptoeing toe plates and flying flys have also plagued me. The only parts I haven't had to wonder are barrels and stocks, YET. As far as haunted shops go, I know there's no way I left this shop or bench in the mess it stays in....MERRY CHRISTMAS everyone.......Bob
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flying flys
To me the flying flys are the worst! They only fly one time then bury them self's into the shop floor never to fly or be found again!
Dennis
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I really hate those pain in the buttplates !!! The ones with all the "fancies" Nathan
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What Wade said about being able to "move" the initial punch mark before centerpunching is a handy trick to know. I assemble the barrel and lock with everything tight and visually determine the location of the touch hole and mark it with a prick punch and a light hammer blow.....this mark is never exactly right (at least for me) but it's easy to move this mark in any direction with the prick punch and a light hammer blow and when it's "perfect" you can apply the centerpunch then drill/tap or whatever. I'm sure that most of you guys know this trick but I was surprised when a machinist friend showed me how to do it. I like to see the touchhole located "correctly" since it looks nice but I'm not sure that one that's a little bit "off" from the ideal location will make any difference in ignition.
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Ok,this turned more serious than I intended, so here's my idea and a comment.
-If I tap 2 pieces of rod into holes in the stock
, fore and aft that fit lock holes perfectly, that would keep it in place while inletting.
-What made me bring this up is that my latest build, which I hunted with, ended up with a low touchhole. One time a stray drop of water ended up in the pan, and instead of just having to dump the pan and refill with dry powder I ended up with a wet charge from water running into the touchhole.
Turtle
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-If I tap 2 pieces of rod into holes in the stock
, fore and aft that fit lock holes perfectly, that would keep it in place while inletting.
Oh my! I have no words.
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-What made me bring this up is that my latest build, which I hunted with, ended up with a low touchhole. One time a stray drop of water ended up in the pan, and instead of just having to dump the pan and refill with dry powder I ended up with a wet charge from water running into the touchhole.
Turtle
That's a bummer....water in a pan of powder. The flash from your pan covers a wide area and the touchhole doesn't have to be in the perfect center of the pan for the gun to work...a tad bit high is okay, maybe even beneficial.
When I'm hunting with a muzzleloader, be it percusion or flint, I carry along a blend of wax (toilet bowl wax ring) and a bit of crisco...more wax than crisco.....in a small container. I use this to build up a dam all around the lock pan and the adjoining surfaces. Helps keep water out! Water has an increadible way of seeping into the most tinyest of places and joints.